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What application crank pulley have you used...
dan filipi Wrote:There seems to be some renewed interest at in the 4" pulley I had made.

I haven't gone through all the posts here about this subject so excuse me if one is already being made by someone.
If so, Mods please delete this post.

I'm getting in contact with the machinist that made mine for a quantity price.
Depending what he says I may be shopping around for a better deal.
So far 4 people want one but if I can get more interest maybe the savings will benefit everyone as I'm not in this to make any money, just want to help solve a problem (if there is one).

[Image: image.php?album_id=164&image_id=7201]

Good stuff Dan. This 4" pulley is great for city cruisers because it keeps the alternator spinning fast. I also like the machined cut out for the key on the crankshaft. A couple of things I would like to see done on these pulleys is to have them hard faced to keep wear down where it contacts the belt and the other thing is to drill holes in the face of the pulley to keep the weight down, otherwise I feel that it's a great pulley for the GL1200 conversion if you don't mind the extra noise of the alternator spinning faster.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of

#151 12-23-2011, 05:25 PM,
Hard faced?
Are flat belt alternator pulleys hard faced?

As far as drilling to make them lighter I don't see that necessary considering the OEM stator load is eliminated.
Since the OEM is running at 100% at all times the result is less load on the engine running an external, especially since running at a positive low rpm output the battery is kept fully charged which lowers the continuous load on the engine.

Now if load is increased on the external past what the OEM is loading then that's a different story but still, I don't think drilling to lighten the pulley is needed because any gain wouldn't really be noticed.

All alternators whine in my experience.
I haven't notice mine running noisier at 2 to 1 than 1 to 1.
Running faster will cause more vibration yes but if there's vibration then something isn't set up properly.
A one piece pulley helps to improve balance and lessen those vibrations as does solid mounts and good alignment.
#152 12-24-2011, 01:29 PM,
Most pulleys are made of steel, this one is aluminum, as I recall. Rubber against aluminum creates a high wear factor on the aluminum. Most industrial aluminum pulleys are hard faced by coating them in special powder and running them through a heating cycle which creates a hard and durable surface on the pulley and only costs about $10. for the process.

Every gram adding to the crankshaft weight slows engine acceleration, therefore, if you are running an external alternator it would be wise to drill out the rivets on the alternator rotor and eliminate the rotor completely, but, I'm speaking here from a performance background and if the bike is never going to be revved high but instead is used to haul a trailer along with loaded bags and trunk at regular road speeds then my point about the crankshaft weight savings is moot, but, it could make a difference in fuel economy.

If you do the math on the pulley speed you'll find that the 4 inch pulley spins the alternator at about 2000 RPM when the bike is idling and 8000 RPM when the engine is at 4000 RPM which is great for low speed charging, but, requires more power to spin it. Using a 3.5 inch crank pulley gets the alternator speed down a little and keeps the charge rate and the noise down (I compared both pulleys on the same bike) at an acceptable level for the GL1200.

I think that the 4" pulley that you offer is a great alternative for the guy that needs lots of low speed charging power and the last one I got from you was very well machined.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of

#153 12-24-2011, 02:35 PM,
The pulley I had made is steel.
I could be wrong but I don't really see a reason to harden since it's rubber running on steel.
Everything does wear over time though.

I'll see about my guy making them 3 1/2"
Might cost less but I would like to try it on mine first to see if there's enough output at idle which is a lot of the reason for doing this in the first place, for my riding anyway which is a lot of city traffic stop and go with all lights on.
#154 12-24-2011, 03:18 PM,
You don't need hardening if it's steel, just aluminum. But, aluminum is the better way to go to keep the crankshaft weight down. I'm sure the 3.5" will work fine for you. Let us know how you make out with it. Merry Christmas Dan.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of

#155 12-24-2011, 07:08 PM,
ok, did anyone ever make the perfect pulley for the 84 gl that will fit? 3 rib, ~3.5 od, that we can get to the belt mounting bolt without taking the pulley off. is 3.5" the biggest we can have n still easily get to the belt cover mounting bolt on 84 gl?
#156 03-03-2016, 11:34 PM,
My pulley is not perfect so I have to remove my drive pulley to remove the right timing belt cover bolt. Just one of the 'quirks' of owning a GL1200.
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
#157 03-04-2016, 10:17 PM,
ok, what size is ur pulley? how big can the pulley be and NOT have problems accessing the belt cover bolt on 84 gl...3.5? 4"?
#158 03-06-2016, 04:31 PM,
a 4" is about all you want.any larger presents problems with fan clearance,Don supplies his kits with 3.5" ones which is about ideal,his kits years ago with 2.5" ones but it wouldn't charge will about 1500 then,not good if you have alot of stoplights to deal with.andn serp belts are alot better than a v-pullley,doesn't require as much tension which prolongs alt bearing
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

#159 03-06-2016, 10:58 PM,
(03-02-2009, 01:39 PM)seminolejoe Wrote: I just recieved word back from the machine shop I had to work me up a price for cutting out the 4" pulley. He told me he could cut them out for $130.00 for the first one and $58.00 each after that. I'm gonna have him cut one out for me so it will be $58.00 plus shipping for anyone that wants one. Just let me know and we'll get together on paying for them. They'll be cut out of aluminum too. Let me know if you're interested, Joe

Joe did you have the pulley made. Is it a 3 rib or a v pulley. I took the plan for the 4 inch pulley by Don Phillippe I think that is how to spell his name. to the local high school and got a price of #250.00 for the pulley. The teacher used machine shop rates. So that is a no go for me, no bargain there. Is it possible to send me a diagram of your pulley or did you use the same one that I already have. I have an idler pulley of a Suburu Impresser. It is about 4 1/4" I am going to see what it would cost to have a bushing/spacer made for it. It is a 5 rib. any help is greatly appreciated. Tried to send you a PM but came back no yahoo account. Thanks Fred
#160 10-03-2018, 02:58 PM,
try this one
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#161 10-09-2018, 06:21 AM,
(10-09-2018, 06:21 AM)SIR tricky Wrote: try this one

I used a four rib belt and cut one rib off

Gates 40315
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#162 10-09-2018, 06:29 AM,
I’m trying to find parts to fit an alternator to my 1985 GL1200.
I emailed Don hoping to buy a kit but he wrote back saying he is no longer selling the kits.
I called my local auto salvage yard looking for a power steering pump pulley from a 1989 Honda Prelude as well as the alternator for a 1989-1993 Geo Metro but they had neither and told me I was going to have a hard time finding those parts as cars from before 2000 are routinely just crushed rather than being held for parts by salvage yards.
Any pointers on a currently available crank pulley, alternator, other parts or a complete kit would be appreciated.
#163 10-21-2021, 03:39 PM,

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