Tach no working after sitting idle for one month.
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Hello all...
My GL1200 Interstate has been sitting idle for the last month while I was in London. Returned Sunday and decided to ride the bike to work this morning. It started up first crank but the tach seems to be dead. It never moves. I did the basics... tapped it, thumped it, swore at it... nothing worked. I am about to hit the books and schematics and wanted to tap the forums collective knowledge at the same time. Any ideas? Is this the right sub-forum to be posting in??? Cheers and thanks, Peter
1986 GL1200 Interstate
New stator (connector removed) Analog Volt Meter Rear reflector - turn/brake mod. LED lights, 95% complete. HID headlight upgrade. TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) Pyle PLMR86B mechless Marine radio. Awesome Marvin the Martian mudflap. |
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#1
08-13-2012, 07:49 AM,
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Follow up...
Goldwing is running so the ignition module is pushing pulses down the yellow/blue wire to the coil pack. Leaves three options. 1: bad contact to the tach from the yellow/blue wire. 2: bad contact from tach to ground 3: tach is dead. I am guessing a corrosion problem on a wire given both the one month idle and the age of the bike. Does anyone know where the tach gets its ground???
1986 GL1200 Interstate
New stator (connector removed) Analog Volt Meter Rear reflector - turn/brake mod. LED lights, 95% complete. HID headlight upgrade. TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) Pyle PLMR86B mechless Marine radio. Awesome Marvin the Martian mudflap. |
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#2
08-13-2012, 09:52 AM,
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The FIX is in.
The answer is #1... bad connection on the yellow/blue wire. Turns out under the fake gas tank there are several connector blocks. A few go to the ignition module. I cleaned and re-seated them and the problem was gone. I imagine a 26 year old Goldwing might have a few connectors that need cleaning. I guess I know what I will be doing this Winter.
1986 GL1200 Interstate
New stator (connector removed) Analog Volt Meter Rear reflector - turn/brake mod. LED lights, 95% complete. HID headlight upgrade. TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) Pyle PLMR86B mechless Marine radio. Awesome Marvin the Martian mudflap. |
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#3
08-20-2012, 01:21 PM,
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Systematically going through the wiring harness and cleaning each plugged connection will be a time consuming, and well worth the effort when completed. Add some (not a lot) dielectric to keep the connections from oxidizing.
The market sells a tool which will allow removing each, individual plug (male or female) from their plastic housing. In this way you can be sure of getting the connections absolutely clean. Personally, I donât use the over-the-counter tool because I can get my vacuum cleaner to find one for me. I have three daughters and the vacuum always finds their dropped bobby pins. You know, those black, thin metal hair clips the ladies use in their hair. There are two sizes, a large and a small and the small version works just as well as the over-the counter, but it is far cheaper and more readily available. I have two of both sizes in my tool drawing with my other electrical, specific tools. New Stator (connection removed) â GOOD! (touchy subject â wonât go there!) Volt Meter added â GOOD! it is nice to see those 13.5 + volts a you ride Rear Reflector â turn/brake mod. â GOOD! increases rear visibility LED brake, turn and marker lights â GOOD! lowers the voltage draw and increases rear visibility Marvin the Martian Mud flap â GOOD! just for attitude Did you also replace the dog bone with a 30 amp spade fuse? Did you add a second wire from the voltage regulator, through a 30 amp spade fuse, to the positive side of the battery? Read all you can about updating the charging system of these great bikes. Decide which ones best suit your needs and you should have a trouble free electrical system. Good job in finding your own fix. -Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#4
08-20-2012, 02:26 PM,
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"Did you also replace the dog bone with a 30 amp spade fuse?"
Is this a convenience mod or is there a problem with the current fuse (no pun intended). "Did you add a second wire from the voltage regulator, through a 30 amp spade fuse, to the positive side of the battery?" I have not checked the path of the original feed but I take it there are some resistance issues with the original path? Any clarification would be appreciated.
1986 GL1200 Interstate
New stator (connector removed) Analog Volt Meter Rear reflector - turn/brake mod. LED lights, 95% complete. HID headlight upgrade. TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) Pyle PLMR86B mechless Marine radio. Awesome Marvin the Martian mudflap. |
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#5
09-07-2012, 07:19 AM,
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the dogbone fuses after several years are unreliable,there is also a problem that develops at the connector to the solenoid,replacing this connector and installing the 30amp ato fuseholder eliminates two possible problem areas at once
<!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/techcenter/article1004.htm">techcenter/article1004.htm</a><!-- l --> replacing the stator connector by hardwiring it out of the system and the rectifier connectors also eliminates problem areas
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K 2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K Hancock,MD |
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#6
09-07-2012, 08:24 AM,
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Peter Wrote:"Did you also replace the dog bone with a 30 amp spade fuse?" Even though you may not have any current (sorry for the pun) electrical issues with your bike, it may be wise to read the electrical threads with interest and see if your bike could benifit from some of these solutions/upgrades. The charging system (from stator to rectifier to battery) and the dog bone fuse have been a source of aggravation and has stranded many a GL1200 rider. I would much rather prevent a problem on my schedule than have to fix something on the bikes schedule. -Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#7
09-07-2012, 01:35 PM,
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