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A new Prob with my 84 interstate GL1200 Clutch
OK first I would like to thank everyone who helped me out to get it running. Now with that being said I am glad I had the bike on the center stand, because I had the bike in N and everything was good pull the clutch in and put it in gear and the wheel starts spinning I hit the back break with the clutch pulled in and the bike dies because the clutch in not engaged. I put new fluid in the system and after that the bike went into N and I could go through all of my gears easy. I pull the clutch handle in and it feels like there is nothing there (it is really easy to pull). Also The bike has a back fire with white smoke, I am sure this is just because it sat for 6 months and it was not winterized I am sure that will work itself out.
#1 02-11-2012, 06:45 PM,
Sounds like you have some air in the line. The clutch is very difficult/temperamental to bleed correctly, (new fluid is bleeding downhill but the bubbles want to rise)and you will often get a bubble of air trapped in the banjo bolt area just outside the master cylinder,.

For a quick fix (temporary) lean the bike to the right (center stand with a piece of wood ect. under the left foot) and then turn the handlebars full lock to the right. now tie the clutch lever in tight to the grip and leave it overnight. This usually lets the bubble rise up the hose and into the master reservoir.

Most common quote from a cager after killing a motorcyclist.

"I never saw him" instead of "I never looked for him".
#2 02-11-2012, 07:19 PM,
I will try that thanks
#3 02-11-2012, 07:38 PM,
buckjflowers Wrote:pull the clutch in and put it in gear and the wheel starts spinning I hit the back break with the clutch pulled in and the bike dies because the clutch in not engaged.

Another bike I have did the same thing. Sounds like you need a Clutch Master Cylinder Repair Kit like this one on eBay: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href=""> ... es&vxp=mtr</a><!-- m -->

It's not a difficult job to replace the parts in the Master Cylinder, the hardest thing is removing & replacing the "C" clip, you need a special set of pliers to do the job right. You can find these pliers at places like Northern Tool or Harbor Freight. Good Luck.
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#4 02-11-2012, 07:59 PM,
I have to tell you I love this site. So many people have been through everything i have I will try the rebuild kit
#5 02-11-2012, 08:12 PM,
Ok I tried to tilt the bike and have the clutch pulled in over night that did not work but that was a great idea I would of never thought of that haha. So next I am going to rebuild the clutch cylinder and I will let you know if that work.
#6 02-12-2012, 01:30 PM,
Before rebuilding the master, there are some additional tests you can do to determine what needs attention.

Throw a large towel over the bodywork under the clutch master.
Pump the clutch lever 3X and while holding the lever in (but not touching the hand grip) loosen the banjo bolt at the clutch master. The clutch lever may now be touching the hand grip.
With the lever still compressed, tighten the clutch master banjo bolt.
Release the clutch lever
Repeat this procedure 2 more times. If there is air trapped at the banjo bolt, this should get rid of it.
With the front tire facing forward, check the fluid level in the clutch master. At no time should this get so low as to induce air into the system as you will have to start over at the beginning. Top off if need be. I like securing the front tire so it is always facing forward as this makes the clutch master level and minimizes dot 4 fluid spillage.
Put the top back on the clutch master.
Remove the slave cylinder from the back of the motor, where the clutch is. If you have a black, plastic storage box in the way, one 10mm bolt will make it easier to reach the slave bolts.
Pull out the clutch actuating rod. It should be clean and smooth. Crud can sometimes build up on this rod making it difficult to slide in and out (stay focused boys!!!!)
Inspect the slave cylinder. Is it dry? If not, the piston seal may be leaking
Put your finger on the slave piston and pull the clutch lever in. Does the piston move out?
If it does, release the clutch lever and pull the clutch lever again. Did the slave piston move out again?
If yes, reinstall the actuating rod and the slave cylinder and try the clutch again.
If it is working now, kudos. If it is not working, but has improved, try bleeding the system at the slave bleeder again and see if that causes it to work properly.
If the clutch lever is still mussy, a master rebuild kit may fix the problem.

At least this way, you have determined the problem is not crud on the actuating rod, a leaky slave piston seal, or air in the system.

If rebuilding the master is the course of action, remember to prime the master before trying to bleed the system.

-Ride On ~O)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
#7 02-13-2012, 02:11 PM,
I had a similar problem and it was the little rod that is by the lever. It went thru the brass bushing and if I let the clutch lever out the tiniest bit, the clutch would engage. Bought the rod/bushing combo on Ebay for around $20. It vastly improved my clutch, the rod is supposed to fit in the bushing a little,not go all the way thru it.
#8 01-07-2013, 12:06 PM,

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