tear down advice

[admin]

Have you drained the engine oil to check for water inside? Some kid could have used a garden hose to fill the engine with water.

[herbie]

no water in the oil. We're good there.

[herbie]

Did the PB Blast in the cylinders for 1/2 a week on each side (I know people said a full week) and there was zero difference. Still does not turn. Checked starter chain and it moves freely. I've removed the rear and front engine covers. Only thing left is the splitting the engine. Any reccommendations on what I should be looking for once I split the engine open?

Here's a thought. My complete top and bottom gasket kit, still unopened, cost me about $150. Tools to hone the cylinders and to do all the measurement checks will cost me another $100. That's $250 if I don't have to replace any parts. A few engines on ebay and criagslist are going for $225-450. Would I be better off getting one of these engines and parting out my broken one? My gasket kit is unopened and I could sell it for what I paid. I'm into education, but this education seems like it will cost me more money and time than going the easy route (which is very rare). If you think I'll find a simple solution once I open the engine then maybe I should continue with what I'm doing.

Thanks again for all your help. I have to say that of all the forums I belong to for other bikes and cars, GoldWing Forums are the kindest.

[admin]

It is possible although not too likely that the engine has a spun bearing. That's where a bearing wears so much that it overlaps the other bearing and seizes the engine. I've never heard of that in a Wing engine but it is possible. If that is the case you would need to grind the crankshaft or replace it and install new bearings, very expensive. Cheaper to replace the engine.

Have you tried filling the crankcase with engine oil and kerosene or varsol to act as a penetrating agent?

[herbie]

Have you tried filling the crankcase with engine oil and kerosene or varsol to act as a penetrating agent?

Not yet. If you think it will work, I'll fill it tomorrow.

[herbie]

Skipping the solvent and going straight for opening the engine. Figure I shouldn't put off the inevitable. However, these manuals make things seem too easy. "remove the bolts and open the engine cases..." Okay, I've pulled all the bolts and have pulled hard enough to throw out my back. Tried the mallet, prying with a steel pipes, etc. Any suggestions on how to open these cases up?

[herbie]

Good news-ish!

Couldn't get the cases to open. It sat for some time with PB Blast in the cylinders for a while as I tried. Figured I should give one more shot on turning the engine. IT TURNED. I got the pistons to move from the top to the bottom and then... the cases opened.

So I got movement and I opened the caes. Two things I wanted to do, but just not at the same time. so now the crank just turns. So I'll have to continue with the complete rebuild.

from here, what do you reccommend.? Should I bore it? New Pistons and Rings? Just clean it and put it back together?

[admin]

Only your eyes and measuring tools can tell you that.

[herbie]

I've been away for awhile again. Sorry about that.

I've got the engine cases back together and all the pistons are moving freely when I turn the crank. I'm so happy. I opened my Athena Complete Gasket Kit I got from Partsnmore.com to start putting things back together and the first gasket I pulled out didn't fit. They gave me 2 rear engine cover gaskets and neither works. I've written both Athena and Parts N More. While I await their reply I figured I should get going on a few other issues.

Valve job: I'm thinking that this rusty motor has some rust in the valves. So I want to go through those. Has anyone done a valve job themselves, or should I bring this to a pro? The manual reccommends a pro.

Valve adjustments: Before I put my heads back on the bike, do I need to make adjustments? Or is this something you do after they are installed?

The heads along with a carb rebuild should keep me busy until I hear back about my gasket.

thanks again for all the help.

[admin]

You could hand lap the valves yourself but it's pretty difficult to do a proper 3 angle valve job at home. I would say send it to a qualified pro for the valve job that way he can check the valve springs, valve stems and grind the valves and seats properly.

Ask the machine shop how much they are cutting the valves and if the finished job does not change the valve height you don't need to worry about valve adjustment. If the valve height changes by "X" amount you will need a special tool to set valve adjustment, see manual.

[herbie]

Any idea what the price range would be for a valve job like that? I fully understand that mechanic vary from region to region. Just want to get an idea.
Thanks

[admin]

About $120. Don't forget to give the shop new valve seals so he can install them.

[herbie]

How bad did I screw up? One of my engine bolts conneting the two halves snapped. It was one of the long 8mm bolts in the center near the front engine cover. Torque wrench didn't click. Oops. Am I olay with just using the other 21 bolts, or do I need to tear it apart again and try to remove the bolt piece?

[admin]

It was put there for a reason, I would try to replace it.

[herbie]

SO.... I started this post almost two years ago. I'm sure many of you thought me dead and gone. Nope. just busy. Well, here's the current situation...

IT'S RUNNING!!!!

All I had to do was get a new engine. Installed it and cranked it. It runs.

NOW THERE'S SMOKE!! I siphoned out all the gas (as much as I could). Put in a gallon of new fuel. Changed the filters, plugs, oil and coolant. It smokes from the left heads. I thought at fist it was oil that needed to burn off. But it keeps coming. The smoke is white and odorless. What's the diagnosis now?