Manual Fan Switch?

[unionjack]

Yes one of the fan wires should have power the entire time the key is on, that is in the full on position and not just the accessory position.

If it is still dead then check your fuses.

[gaillarry]

The p.o. put in a different fuse box on top of the air box. None of them are marked. I checked the fuses they are good. There's only 5 fuses.

Tried to follow the wires from the fan plug but it's a maze under the fairing. From the wiring diagram the black/blue has a 10amp glass fuse - but where?

[unionjack]

I think that fuse is on top of the rear fender under the seat, approximately level with the upper shock mounting bolts????

[gaillarry]

I think that fuse is on top of the rear fender under the seat, approximately level with the upper shock mounting bolts????

Thanks, found it by the right rear shock, glass fuse was blown. I'll replace it with a in-line ATO fuse holder. I can also tap into this wire as the power supply for the fan switch. The toggle switch has 3 inputs:

- power
- ACC
- Ground

What is the ACC input for??

[scty_p]

It's the same style switch I used. The ground terminal is for the ground of the light in the switch, not your circuit ground. The ACC would be for the item you want switched.

[neoracer]

now your saying that u got the light in the switch to work?

[scty_p]

Yes, neo, It all works!

[gaillarry]

It's the same style switch I used. The ground terminal is for the ground of the light in the switch, not your circuit ground. The ACC would be for the item you want switched.

Being an electrical dummy I need further explanation.

- ground on the switch goes to any good ground (thinking the ground terminal on the fuse box)

- ACC goes to the ground wire from the fan plug - NOT the 12v feed to the plug

- Power to any switched power - thinking main power feed at the fuse box

Correct??

-

[scty_p]

gaillarry,

Ground - Any good ground
ACC - Ground wire from thermostatic switch (Green wire)
Power - Black wire from fan plug (ground or return side, not power side)

It is a little different than conventional 12V wiring as Ma Honda is switching the ground side of the curcuit. It can be confusing at times as it is backwards to what we normally think in regards to 12V wiring. If you wire as you have explained it, you will not have bypassed the thermostatic switch to run the fan manually. This would defeat the purpose of installing the manual switch.

I am certainly no electrical wizard. I just try things and have lots of spare fuses handy. hock:

Good Luck

[gaillarry]

Thanks, it's working now !!!

[bs175dths]

Scty-P
If your modification is working the way you have it drawn in the schematic, you have a potential hazard.

Please understand electricity only works if it can flow and it flows through the least path of resistance.
The electrons will flow through the Bl/Bu wire to the plug, through the Bu wire to the fan, through the fan to the Bl wire, to the plug, through the Bl wire, through the thermo switch, to the green wire, through the LED to ground.

When the water temp. reaches the predetermined temp, the thermo switch will close, thus completing the circuit allowing the fan to spin and the LED to glow.

If, and this is a big if, the LED happens not to work, the circuit will not be completed even if the water causes the thermo switch to close.
My concern here is if someone else follows your design but does not use an LED, and the bulb fails, the fan will never turn on and the manual switch will have to be used to operate the cooling fan.

What you have done is added the LED ‘in series’. A better application would be to add the light ‘in parallel’ as Tricky had done. In parallel, if the bulb stops working, the circuit will continue to work as designed, through the thermo switch.

I don’t recall who, but in an earlier posting, a question was asked about having power at both the Bu going to the fan and the Bl coming from the fan.
Referring back to the schematic, power will be found at all points, except at the G wire (as long as the switch is not defective and closed while the water is cold)
If you attach one side of you meter to ground and the other to any point on the circuit (except the G wire) your meter is supplying a point of ground.
The way to test to see if this circuit is defective is to first test to see if power is at Bl/Bu (meter to ground and probe the Bl/Bu wire). Next would be to probe between the Bu and the Bl wires to see if electrons are flowing. If you get any reading, and the fan is not spinning, this is a drain on the battery and the cause needs to be found and repaired.

As an FYI, I was concerned about the integrity of my thermo switch and fan and added a indicator light so I knew when the fan came on. I mounted the indicator light in my left speaker blank (in an existing hole) so I can also view the temp gauge at the same time. Now I can educate myself on at what needle deflection of the temp gauge does the fan switch on and off. If it deflects and my light does not come on, either the fan is not working, the indicator light is not working or the thermo switch is not working, and in any case, the system needs some attention. BTW, I too have a manual switch for the cooling fan.

[scty_p]

Thanks bs175dths,

No worries about any hazard as it's not working :oops:

It all worked fine when I test wired everything and just with the key on and not running. Now that the rad and coolant is back in and it's up and running it all seems different. Back to the drawing board, I mean tricky's drawing.

I knew I was in trouble when the LED came on and the fan wasn't spinning. Then I jumpered the two wires that whent to the LED and that got the fan going again.

It's all about learning and I got a lesson today!

[gaillarry]

When I turned the key on and the toggle switch on, the fan worked fine - until I started the bike. When I started the bike the wires began smoking and the switch became very hot !!!

Back to the drawing board for me

[bs175dths]

If I can suggest to the two of you... Put it all back the way it was before you modified it. Make sure it works the way Mom Honda designed it. Once you are satisfied it is working again, then go back and add the indicator light and the switch and try again.
In one case, since things got hot, you are going to have to inspect that wiring and make sure nothing serious happened.

Go slow, draw up your version of Tricky's schematic using your color code (if different than Tricky's) and try again. Maybe before doing a final install, test your idea with a 10A fuse connected to the manual switch.

We know you can do this, it just takes a bit of time and patience.

[gaillarry]

If I can suggest to the two of you... Put it all back the way it was before you modified it. Make sure it works the way Mom Honda designed it. Once you are satisfied it is working again, then go back and add the indicator light and the switch and try again.
In one case, since things got hot, you are going to have to inspect that wiring and make sure nothing serious happened.

Go slow, draw up your version of Tricky's schematic using your color code (if different than Tricky's) and try again. Maybe before doing a final install, test your idea with a 10A fuse connected to the manual switch.

We know you can do this, it just takes a bit of time and patience.

10amp fuse on the power side of the switch sounds like a good idea. I note on Tricky's diagram the switch plugs (power & acc) is wired to the power side of the fan switch.