86 GL 1200 will only run with the choke?

[wwinn]

Hey everyone, Started my 86 GL1200 Interstate after winter storage and it will ONLY run with the choke on. I have run seafoam through it and did seam to help a bit but if you remove the choke it stalls out ..... HELP !

[garyft]

First, understand that the choke is not truly a "choke" in the classic sense. It's actually an enrichener that adds more fuel to the mix, whereas a true choke closes off air coming in.

So, if you need the extra fuel to keep it running, logically we can assume that under normal circumstances you're either getting too much air or not enough fuel. A vacuum leak would explain too much air and not enough fuel would be caused by clogged jets/circuits in the carbs.

My guess would be a huge vacuum leak somwhere, since that would be most likely to affect all 4 carbs at once.

[wwinn]

Thank you, i will check that right now.

[wwinn]

Ok no vacuum leaks found but the seafoam has helped to the point it will idle now. Erratic but idle still. Have the gauges on it and the carbs are in sync. Guess i have to let the seafoam do its stuff.

Give that a shot with new plugs tomorrow. Thanks for the help............

[bs175dths]

If you are riding the bike to get the Seafoam to do its work, no problem.
If you are letting the bike stand still and idle, add some cooling fans so you don't create other problems.
When testing for progress, remember not to wack the throttle open, but open it slowly and listen for any hesitation or flat spots.
These could be deposits on the throttle needles or on the pistons which are supposed to glide up and down with a difference of air pressure, or another issue.
Hold the throttle position and listen to the engine. Is it constant or does the rpm vary. Slight variation is acceptable.
Good Luck.
Keep us posted.

-Ride On

[wwinn]

Well she still idles rough and backfireing and intermittent missing. Give the stuff a little more time before going deeper.
Thanks for all the help.

[Ranch55]

Almost definitely the pilot adjusting screws and slow fuel jets have some small minute debris collected.
My symptoms were exactly the same. Sea Foam would help, but I could not get things to completely clear up.
Just this week I have done a complete 4 carb cleaning using Randakk's master kits. I found one carb slow jet completely closed off, another almost blocked, and two of them were almost okay. And the one carb with the slow jet plugged also had the pilot screw ports plugged also.
All in all, a complete cleaning was necessary. I have been using Sea Foam for about a year now trying to get things to clear up. I will be putting everything back together today and firing up tomorrow.

[wwinn]

Well i had them rebuilt three years ago, this damn fuel today is worthless. I wish you good luck when you get her running. Thanks for the info

[bs175dths]

Almost definitely the pilot adjusting screws and slow fuel jets have some small minute debris collected.
My symptoms were exactly the same. Sea Foam would help, but I could not get things to completely clear up.
Just this week I have done a complete 4 carb cleaning using Randakk's master kits. I found one carb slow jet completely closed off, another almost blocked, and two of them were almost okay. And the one carb with the slow jet plugged also had the pilot screw ports plugged also.
All in all, a complete cleaning was necessary. I have been using Sea Foam for about a year now trying to get things to clear up. I will be putting everything back together today and firing up tomorrow.

Although I have heard and read of the kit you used, I am unclear if you also looked at the throttle slides.
Since you have it apart, make sure the needles are clean and straight.
Also, make sure the walls of the slides are clean and smooth as well as the cylinder it goes into. Any amount of resistance can cause the slides to bind leaving that engine cylinder lacking air, causing a hiccup on your acceleration. I used gas (with caution) to clean both the slider sides and the walls of the cylinder the slide glides in. Once clean, I rubbed the sides and the walls to buff them. I then made sure the diaphragms were not damaged in any way as I seated the seals into the tops of the carburetor body. Make sure the springs are seated properly as well. Once the tops were on, I tested each slide to make sure they would slide up easy and glide down just as smoothly.
Lubricate the enriching pistons and all the linkage on the carburetor assembly. Those butterflies should ‘snap’ shut.

It seems to me most folks work in the float bowl area of the carburetors, but the slides, enriching pistons, linkage and reeds need attention as well.

Since you have them out, take a look at everything, cleaning, buffing, lubricating as you go along.

Replace the o-rings for the intakes and the fresh air tubes, although these can be replaced at a later date without completely removing the carburetor assembly.

Now is the time to spend the time and not have to take the carburetors out a second or third time. (Ask me how I know!) :d

Good luck guys and keep us posted.

-Ride On

[Ranch55]

Almost definitely the pilot adjusting screws and slow fuel jets have some small minute debris collected.
My symptoms were exactly the same. Sea Foam would help, but I could not get things to completely clear up.
Just this week I have done a complete 4 carb cleaning using Randakk's master kits. I found one carb slow jet completely closed off, another almost blocked, and two of them were almost okay. And the one carb with the slow jet plugged also had the pilot screw ports plugged also.
All in all, a complete cleaning was necessary. I have been using Sea Foam for about a year now trying to get things to clear up. I will be putting everything back together today and firing up tomorrow.

Although I have heard and read of the kit you used, I am unclear if you also looked at the throttle slides.
Since you have it apart, make sure the needles are clean and straight.
Also, make sure the walls of the slides are clean and smooth as well as the cylinder it goes into. Any amount of resistance can cause the slides to bind leaving that engine cylinder lacking air, causing a hiccup on your acceleration. I used gas (with caution) to clean both the slider sides and the walls of the cylinder the slide glides in. Once clean, I rubbed the sides and the walls to buff them. I then made sure the diaphragms were not damaged in any way as I seated the seals into the tops of the carburetor body. Make sure the springs are seated properly as well. Once the tops were on, I tested each slide to make sure they would slide up easy and glide down just as smoothly.
Lubricate the enriching pistons and all the linkage on the carburetor assembly. Those butterflies should ‘snap’ shut.

It seems to me most folks work in the float bowl area of the carburetors, but the slides, enriching pistons, linkage and reeds need attention as well.

Since you have them out, take a look at everything, cleaning, buffing, lubricating as you go along.

Replace the o-rings for the intakes and the fresh air tubes, although these can be replaced at a later date without completely removing the carburetor assembly.

Now is the time to spend the time and not have to take the carburetors out a second or third time. (Ask me how I know!) :d

Good luck guys and keep us posted.

-Ride On

Re-read my earlier post............

[bs175dths]

^^

You don't have to yell. ~O)
Folks have different definitions of complete (no yelling here).
Good luck with your rebuild.

-Ride On (and relax)

[Ranch55]

Sorry, not my intention. Just trying to highlight the text.
As far as the rebuild, should know in a day or so.