Timing Belt Disaster!
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Okay, I'm branching out from my normal forum to get some extra perspective. My bike is a 1984 GL1200 Interstate. As far as the history goes . . . long story short, I got it for free after it had been sitting outside, not running for 11 years. I've been working on it for a few weeks, progress is slow but steady.
Now, for my question. I went to replace the timing belts and found this: [attachment=1] [attachment=0] [attachment=2] hock: GAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!!! I don't even know where to begin. Suggestions? |
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#1
12-14-2010, 08:18 PM,
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No big deal. If the engine will turn, bring it up on #1, take all the parts off that will come off. Clean them up. If the idlers feel good put them back on if not replace. Install new belts. Poorboy
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#2
12-14-2010, 09:24 PM,
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Mike, Let me know if those tensioners are toast. I may be able to help.
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#3
12-15-2010, 04:37 PM,
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actually i think that Poorboy is right,careful removal of the cam gear and cleanup should be easy,and the surfaces on the belt adjusters shouldn't be hard either,just hope that the bearings in the adjusters are in good shape,even if not they can be found and/or repaired using threads from either this or another site,good luck either way
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K 2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K Hancock,MD |
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#4
12-15-2010, 06:04 PM,
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Thanks for all of your replies. I'll be taking everything off tonight or tomorrow. I'll let you all know how it goes.
Rudy - I'll keep you in mind if I need to replace the tensioners. Bob - it is just rainwater. It's never been submerged. Speaking of which - the Timing belt cover seals are obviously shot. Any ideas on where I can snag a new set? Also, I'm looking for a new water pump cover. Anyone have a parts bike they're piecing out? |
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#5
12-15-2010, 08:10 PM,
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Send me a pic of what you need. Poorboy
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#6
12-15-2010, 09:50 PM,
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There's a pretty effective rust remover called Safest Rust Remover (what else?) that I've used and found works well, in case you're looking around for one.
It costs $25 per gallon and can be re-used a few times. It involves soaking the rusted part for hours or days until the rust dissolves off the part. But so far as the bearings in the tensioner goes, I don't know. Certainly the pulleys, springs, and bolts can easily be cleaned up with this stuff. " ... If you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange these ideas, then each of us will have two ideas." ~ George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) |
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#7
12-16-2010, 02:41 AM,
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the bearings in the tensioners were sealed when they were new, not sure what time and moisture may have done to them. As long as they spin free and smooth once you clean them up, you should be good. But if you re-use them I would sure check them periodically in case they start to wear quickly.
I like Bobs suggestion for dollar store drain cleaner, it should do the trick. Try some rubber gloves and a soft steel or brass brush. Oh yeah, don't splash it in your eyes!! good luck, let us know how you make out.
A rainy day off beats a sunny day at work any time..................
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#8
12-16-2010, 08:38 AM,
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I would love to see the "After" pictures when you tackle this!
Let us know what you try and what works! ~O) |
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#9
12-16-2010, 10:47 AM,
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All of the above are great suggestions but I might add using a dry (no chemical) brass brush (donât forget eye protection) on the aluminum, just to remove the stuff that will come off easily. That way, it wonât fall off and be floating around in there as you ride. I would NOT suggest soaking as it may damage the seals on the sealed bearings of the tensioners. Again, the brass brush to remove the light stuff off the cam pulleys and other internal parts so it is not floating around in there as you put the miles on. Buffing the belt/tensioneer mating surface will clean the rust off and minimize metal loss. Something like Liquid wrench, WD-40 or the like, to pre-loosen the bolts holding the tensioners. I would do this a day or two before you plan to disassemble. While the bolts are out, hit them with a buffing wheel, or like to clean them up without removing metal. As was suggested, test the tensioners for smooth rolling and no wobble. Only you can be the judge here! Imagine if they detonate while riding!!!! Changing the belts (see this site for the thread on procedure and auto part belt equivalent) and the springs are a must for peace of mind. I like things clean, maybe you do too, so clean away! Resist the urge to oil up the cam pulleys to prevent rusting as the same oil may fling and damage the belts. Go slow. Free is the best price in the world, congratulations!
Keep us posted. -Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#10
12-16-2010, 03:12 PM,
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If you want those can be cleaned with soda blasting as well. Messy but not as much as the chemical liquid would be.
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#11
12-16-2010, 04:26 PM,
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+1 on the soda blasting. Messy, but non toxic and still takes the same hand as sandblasting, as least around heavily corroded aluminum like you have. It's almost as if the metal becomes porous.
Our thoughts are with you on this project. Nothing like restoring a neglected machine to functionality especially a Wing. Patrick |
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#12
12-16-2010, 10:15 PM,
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