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Brake Calipers
If there is any doubt whatsoever about the condition of the pistons... change them
If your doing the job do it properly and do it once.
Replace the dust boots if you have any doubts. see line 2
Use either never seize or silicone grease for the pivots

Attached Files
.jpg   caliper4.jpg (Size: 74.02 KB / Downloads: 199)
.jpg   caliper3.jpg (Size: 207.47 KB / Downloads: 172)
.jpg   caliper2.jpg (Size: 174.92 KB / Downloads: 158)
.jpg   caliper1.jpg (Size: 218.32 KB / Downloads: 169)
#1 11-01-2008, 08:01 AM,
Is there a part number for a caliper rebuild kit? I need to do the rear one for sure. It would not release when I tried to push the bike out of the garage to attempt cleaning years of dirt, dust, grease off before getting into things deeper. I was able to take a narrow pry bar and move the pad away from the trashed rotor to enable me to move it around. Note to self: Add one rotor, set of pads, rebuild the caliper to the long list of things to do before Spring. :x

1984 Aspencade
#2 02-06-2009, 06:51 PM,
It might be that it is just the caliper seized onto the caliper bolts. Remove them and coat with either silicone grease or never seize.
If you can push the pistons out a little with the pads removed maybe you could clean the outsides of the pistons, place a piece of wood inplace of the pads so that they dont push all the way out. If you can do that then after they are clean you can push them back in.
I don't know of a kit number I just buy the needed parts at my local Honda dealer, don't know about the US after we pay shipping and taxes it's cheaper to buy them at the dealer
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#3 02-06-2009, 07:19 PM,
Thanks tricky. That could be the case, the bike did set outside...uncovered for a spell. I'll check it out when I get it apart. That won't be for a while. Got a lot of other stuff to do first. From looking over the parts diagrams I didn't see a rebuild kit, BUT, I was hoping to get a kit rather all the individual pieces and parts.

1984 Aspencade
#4 02-06-2009, 07:41 PM,
Here's what I used...
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I rebuilt all the calipars and master cylinders together... I was amazed at the improvement in stopping power as a result... Just be sure to get the correct kits... The front calipar that works with the rear brake has smaller pistons than does the other front calipar... Also be sure to get new seals for the floating pins (where the monting bolts go through) as they will likely already be cracked... This allows water to rust the pin and cause them to stick... When your all done you should be able to squeeze the pistons by hand and move the calipar back and forth (sideways to the rotor) by hand as well...
Ed Zogg
#5 02-07-2009, 02:22 PM,
Thanks for the info Ed. It is much appreciated.

1984 Aspencade
#6 02-08-2009, 07:36 PM,
No sweat Bob,
I have benefited from the experiences of many other wingers here and feel I should do the same when ever possible...
Ed Zogg
#7 02-09-2009, 10:26 AM,
Once brakes have been released I have a scrapeing sound on front brake its the one which works with the rear brake .I took it off and cleaned and lubed all pins and made sure the pistons would retract but I still have the sound. If i push on the caliper it will go away till I apply the rear brakes again.The reason I'm concerned is that it makes the front wheel not spin freely ,when I spin it it stops after less than a full turn.Any ideas...Dave
#8 04-14-2009, 04:35 PM,
You could check to make sure the pedal is returning after being pressed. and make sure it is adjusted correctly.

An incorrect adjustment can cause brake drag

Also remove the pedal and lube the shaft, probably never been done in 25 years

Attached Files
.jpg   brake pedal adjust.jpg (Size: 39.73 KB / Downloads: 965)
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#9 04-14-2009, 05:16 PM,
Do check as Tricky suggests.... If all is well with height adjustment, it may require a master cylinder rebuild/cleaning to cure it...
Ed Zogg
#10 04-14-2009, 06:20 PM,
Tricky, with the links in that sig it looks like a spam post to me.
86 Interstate, ex  police bike
85 LTD, parting out

[Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
#11 11-13-2009, 03:21 PM,
garyft Wrote:Tricky, with the links in that sig it looks like a spam post to me.

Yes there was a couple I just deleted along with that one,,,,, I must have been asleep at the wheel... or bars Smile The forum has been doing a good job of keeping them out recently that I didnt check the links at the bottom before I answered
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#12 11-13-2009, 04:55 PM,
I agree with Ken... I did find one of the seal grooves on mine to be corroded... It took a bit of patients and times (along with a pair of magnifying glasses) to get the groove cleaned out... Just remember that the piston should be able to be put back in the calipar by hand pressure (and not much of that either)... I put calipar grease into each of the grooves prior to installing the new seals (in hopes it will prevent future corroding)... I also grease the piston prior to installing into the calipar (wiping off excess after piston is compressed completely into calipar)...
Ed Zogg
#13 11-14-2009, 07:34 AM,
Confusedhock: Well, I wish I had read some of this yesterday when I have my rear caliper off. :- my brakes were seizing up. had to release the pressure off the caliper with the bleeder valve to get home. :YMPRAY:

so I will pick up some silicon this morning to lube and do the caliper again so I can ride today. and also order the parts for the caliper. I think I only need the seals. I inspected the pistons and there was no were or scratches on the pistions.

anything else that I should look at.
US Navy (Ret) Submariner

USS Bergall, USS Archerfish, USS GC Marshal (B),
USS US Grant (G), USS Skipjack, USS Swordfish,
USS Alabama (B)

Spent a day or two underwater.....
#14 11-12-2010, 07:39 AM,
Just bled my brakes now my rear brake is dragging was able to pry it out a off the rotor and it will work by still sticks like every 3rd or 4th time I step on the brakes.

#15 06-01-2014, 07:37 PM,

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