Ignition Coil Mod

[Guest]

I'll add This Here. I think It should be done to most older bikes. All 3 of mine have it and It has solved a few headaches. It is easy to do and cheep and makes your bike preform better. What's not to like?

Enjoy, Wes

[MikeM]

A very good mod indeed. Also, WiredGeorge does some EXCELLENT WORK rebuilding carbs. He did a set for me on my KZ-1100 with a quick turn around. When I got them back and installed, I put the manometer on and the carbs were already synced

[Oldman]

Very good indeed. Reminds me of the EC Harness. Thanks.

[William_86]

i like the idea, anyone could give more details about how to do it urself? thanks!.

[MikeM]

i like the idea, anyone could give more details about how to do it urself? thanks!.

Basicly use the factory wires to the coil to excite a relay. Run a wire directly from battery to relay and relay to coils. This eliminates any voltage drop in the old wiring harness, switches etc. The article here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=26">http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=26</a><!-- m --> is pretty clear.

[Feetup]

William ;

Look at my last posting in the "Accesories Chrome and Other Goodies" section under the title "Hondaline Temperature Gauge".
(Sorry, I don't know how to paste the link) I describe how I combined the Wiredgeorge (George Lesho) ignition mod with "glhonda's" regulator wiring improvement. It is easy and a great improvement to the ignition system, and charging system. The only catch is that you need a relay with two #87 terminals, not one with an 87 and an 87a. The one I used is made by Bosch, but there are dozens of makers out there. If you like the idea, PM me and I'll scan a sketch or two and some more detailed instructions for you.

[Guest]

Is this coil mod applicable to bikes with a ballast resistor,
i.e., a 1982 GL1100?

If so, how is the ballast resistor issue addressed?

Is the resistor removed completely or is the wiring exactly
the same as shown? Thanks.

[Guest]

The ballast is a REQUIRED component of the ignition system (provided of course, the system uses a ballast). It cuts voltage to protect system components. You may need to change ( or upgrade) the ballast when installing aftermarket ignition components, but it generally is still required. On vehicles that use one, the ballast is bypassed during cranking to ensure hot spark from the coils, but once running, all current once again is directed through the resistor. You can use this modification by supplying a full twelve volts to the ballast itself, but under no circumstances should you by-pass the resistor entirely.

[Guest]

Hi Guys
I need a bit of clarification when doing the coil mod.
This is what I have worked out so far:
A: I have found the KILL switch " YELLOW / RED " wire at the plug for the starter solenid which will connect to the relay No 86.
B: Ground/Negative goes to the Relay No 85.
C: Switched power in from the battery positive goes to the Relay No 30.

Now this where I get a bit lost.
D: From the Relay No 87 where to I connect to the coils.

As you can see I'm not really sure on what I'm doing, so help with some detailed ( SPECIFIC to a GL1200 ) would be appreciated.

Regards
Nomadic 56

[neoracer]

i remember years ago having some "hotter" coils for my 750K2 wonder if the firing order is the same because i know where the bike is still.....it is worth it maybe to research this further

after doing some looking into this i found that the ign coils are controlled by the cdi unit,i'd be reluctant to mess with this since most cd ignitions are pretty good in themselves, i'd want to maybe email wiredgeorge about this and see his thoughts before blowing out the system posssibly

but then again if i knew that i could get "hotter" coils i might think about changing them out since the cdi in a sense just provides the input to the coils and the coils step up the input "pulse" and make the spark

[Guest]

but then again if i knew that i could get "hotter" coils i might think about changing them out since the cdi in a sense just provides the input to the coils and the coils step up the input "pulse" and make the spark

Except that's not how it works...........
The coils are provided 12volts on the B/W wire. (Relay pin #87, if you're doing the mod) The same wire provides power to the control unit. Based on the input from the pulse generator(s), the cdi pulses a "ground" for the coils to make them fire. In theory, a hotter coil would probably work okay.....except theory doesn't necessarily translate into positive results. The cdi is an electronic devise. It very sensitive voltage surges. Too much current through the ground in the cdi could over power the "gates" and cause damage to the cdi. They're kinda spendy. I personally wouldn't attempt it without a replacement cdi and all the components to put it back to stock.

[roadkill750]

Fixed the LINK