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Installing front wheel question
ok so minus the brakes. Basically the book, that is the Clymer book says to lock down the left fork and then the right fork.

The left or "driver side" fork is nice and snug against the guide collar. The right said has about 3/4th of a mm gap to the little collar.

I pushed it so there was no gap and locked it down as well. Checked the brake holder gap, all good.


But things just don't feel right. I ask all this because the front feels a little bouncy. This is following installing an E3.

I took the wheel into the service shop and had it rebalanced and bearings checked. All good there.


Do the E3's just transmit more of the road. Are they more bouncy on road imperfections? Or do they need some time to break in.

Maybe lower air pressure. I have 38 front/rear....

Suggestions? Thoughts?
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#1 08-06-2008, 07:37 PM,
Spin the wheel with the tire off the ground. Carefully check to make sure the bead is even all the way around. Sometimes thay don't seat correctly. They'll balance, but they'll bounce.
Loosen the fork brace. Loosen and retighten the axle cap pinch bolts. They should align better with the brace relaxed. Once the axle caps are tight, retighten the fork brace.
Good luck.
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#2 08-06-2008, 08:07 PM,
And a silly question, the axle nut itself is torqued before you put it back into the forks right.

I did the other suggestions I think I need to remount the tire. To me the little line you see around the rim is not "perfect". And everything else has been checked out.

Went on a 500 mile trip this weekend and along with the slight bouncing, a quck lane switch proved interesting with a little wobble, it would clean out as soon as it would start.
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#3 08-10-2008, 05:30 PM,
Yes, the axle nut is torqued prior to installing the wheel. If you think the bead is incorrect, get it fixed before you scalp that new tire.
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#4 08-10-2008, 05:50 PM,
When you mounted the tire did you use anything to slick it down? I use silicone spray, the tire shops have some other stuff especially made for that. If you try to mount it dry it is not nearly so easy to get the bead seated.

On the torque of the axle nut, yes it tightens against the inner race of the bearings. Only problem I have run into is sometimes aftermarket wheel bearings don't fit the same against the inside spacer and if you torque it too much the bearings can get overloaded and would probably run really hot. Make sure the wheel spins freely after torquing.
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#5 08-10-2008, 05:55 PM,
I torqued to factory spec and wheel spins freely. I saw an old posting..

"no no you dont need to remove anything nor jack the bike.. just. losen the 4 fork brace allen bolts

losen and tighten the 4 axel holder nuts, and then tight the fork brace you only want the fork legs to line up to the wheel axel. then to secure that setup with the fork brace "


So when you are resettign the fork bracing just put it on the center stand and leave the front wheel on the ground. Or no center stand and let the full weight of the bike rest on it?
Reply
#6 08-11-2008, 06:17 AM,


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