How to change fork seals per manual

[Guest]

You dont have to remove the fairing.

Jack up the front of the bike and place a block under the engine.
Release air pressure from the front forks.
Remove wheel, fender and fork brace.
Prior to removing fork caps undo the socket bolt at the bottom of each fork, this will drain the oil as well.
There are times when the inner piston turns when trying to remove the lower socket bolt if this happens one can lock the inner piston by removing the anti dive mechanism you can find a hole where you can insert a bar to prevent the inner piston from turning with the socket bolt.

Remove plastic handlebar cover.
Loosen the fork tube top caps.
Loosen top and bottom fork pinch bolts (6)

You dont need to remove the forks but I like to work on a bench.

As you lower the forks remove the stop ring this will allow the forks to slide out.

If using Progressive springs use their leaflet as to filling the forks with oil

I use 15 weight Belray fork oil Honda calls for ATF

Is there a fork rebuild kit? Yep, guess what I have to do now.

I went for a ride to the Woodlands by Conroe, TX and on the wa, the right fork started to leak. It sputtered on the fairing, windshield and my tiger shade Ray ban wayfarers. It was hotter than all get out too. That probably didn't help much.

So, I printed out the manual portion for the front forks.

Is there a kit to order to rebuild the forks with seals, dust covers, etc...?

I was kinda wondering if I would need to rebuild these or not. Now I can buff these guys out too. Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Oh, I figured out if you ride with shorts, you need sunblock. My legs are alost like a lobster. I now have a level 50 sunblock in the trunk.

Thanks y'all!

Oh yeah, What is the timeframe for this job normally? I may need to pad a couple hours for my learning curve.

[aspengold]

Just geting ready to change the fork seals, for my very first time, and this thread is a huge help. How far do I need to jack the front end up to obtain the necessary clearence to change the seals?

Bob

[Ed Z]

Jack it up far enough that the rear wheel touches the ground... Once the front wheel gets removed there should be enough clearance to remove the fork from the triple tree... Especially if you turn the handle bars far enough...

[aspengold]

Thanks Ed. That is exactly what I need to know

Bob

[Guest]

I have taken my forks off to put new seals in. My problem is the allen bolt at the bottom. I have tried every set of allen wrenches I have and none of them are the right size. What size is it? is it metric? Thank you

[SIR tricky]

Yes metric.
One of the Allen keys in the Honda toolkit will work.

[Guest]

Thanks for the info

[nessy357]

Just changed my seals, your info was of tremendous help, thank you too much !
Cheers Bob

[waltharper]

I know this is going to be a lame Question but,

What is the list of parts I need to rebuild the forks including the dampener. I have my standard down, I figure I might as well replace all the software while I have it taken down. then it is as good as new. ^^

[Roleketu]

I've been re-assembling the front forks, installing Progressive springs. Per the instructions I've temporarily installed the spring and cap to apply tension so I can torque the bottom screw. However the piston inside still spins. I've taken the anti-dive unit off and can see the piston spinning. I'm guessing somebody knows the trick. Thanks.

[noeleo]

So, tricky, what is the going rate for this job? I just don't feel confident in tackling this job, and wonder how many shop hours it would cost. I figured I would ask you, since you posted the how-to and also since it seems you know the right ways to do it. Thanks

noeleo

[SIR tricky]

I've been re-assembling the front forks, installing Progressive springs. Per the instructions I've temporarily installed the spring and cap to apply tension so I can torque the bottom screw. However the piston inside still spins. I've taken the anti-dive unit off and can see the piston spinning. I'm guessing somebody knows the trick. Thanks.

When you look at the piston turning through the antidive hole can you see a hole in the piston? I know I could and I put a bar in there, others have said they cant.

If your just trying to tighten it, use an impact wrench on it it should tighten it up to where you can hand torque it.

[Roleketu]

noeleo, I'm doing it now for the first time ever. It does seem to be quite easy. If you have the tools and some mechanical skills, you could do it. And if you get stumped, like I am for torquing the bottom screw, post here and you'll get loads of help.


EDIT: See how fast Tricky responds, you da Man Tricky. Thanks.

[Roleketu]

Got the bottom screw torqued. I needed two more pairs of hands. One friend used a bar through the caliper mounting ear to compress the fork tube and spring, another grasped the chrome fork tube and I was able to torque the screws. And while we were doing that the UPS guy came up the driveway and delivered the Belray 15w fork oil a day early. Wheeeeeee, kept going and got it all back together. I also made the modification of a 1/8 pipe thread plug in the fork caps. So taking in account that Progressive suggests 5.5 inches from the top and fork collapsed and others in this thread of draining some out to ease up the ride I went with 7 inches from top. Mostly because the majority of riding will be two up and often with a trailer. If its too mushy and requires more oil, I figure with the pipe plugs it'll be easier to add oil then drain oil. Took it for a quick test run and so far quite pleased.

[PanMan75]

I went with the 5.5 from the top and I do think it is firm. I ride mostly solo, so I like the firmness and the feel seems to give me great handling. If I do ride 2-up it usual is with my 12yr old son so there isn't much more weight. Oddly enough I drop the air pressure and I dont feel much of a difference.