GL1200 LEDs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Skymajic]

OK, I've had a moment to cool off and collect my thoughts.
Sorry if I offended anyone other than Mr Pendley.



Let's assume for the moment that you really are brilliant, and I really am an idiot.
Further, let's assume that 22 of 23 customers had zero problems understanding the instructions and the diagram.


That said, what if every 20 - 25 customers you get one like me? Wouldn't it be smarter on your part, because you're brilliant, to learn from my trials, because I'm an idiot, and make instructions and diagrams that even people like me, an idiot, can easily understand and work with?

Wouldn't it also be better to be less condescending of my issues, because I'm an idiot, because after all you can't be brilliant about everything. (assuming) And there must be times when you have to take instructions from someone that is more brilliant than you are.

I'd like to get these lights working properly. Meaning,

1] I want the turn signals to work properly.
2] I want the trunk and saddle bag lights (brakes, running and signals) to work properly.
3] I want the idiot light on the dash to NOT be lit unless there really is a problem.
4] I want the headlight to operate correctly.


At this point that's all I'm asking for concerning LEDnights, and I don't think I'm asking for too much.

[Guest]

I'm gonna have to order LED's just so I can get in on the fun, has anybody installed the LED's with no problem???

[pappy]

I had problems when I converted my reg bulbs to leds. I was a cheap skate and only bought 2 bulbs for the trunk and it would not work. Once I bought all 4 bulbs for the back and did the modification per Jims instructions, they work great. They are brighter than stock and I am very pleased. I only changed out the 1157 for stop and tail lights, I did not change the turn signals or any other bulbs. I have a voltmeter and sitting at a stop light with brakes on it drops .1 volts. The idiot light on the dash stays on now because the system is using so little power that it reads that as bulb/bulbs out. I ride to work in the dark so before I pull off I pull the brake lever and look in the mirror to see if the lights are working, so far they light up the world.
From my dealing with Jim, if you gave him a call, or gave him your number he would call you and he would help all that he could. When I am ready to change to leds on my 1500 I would not hesitate to contact Jim and see what he had for them.
I am not taking anyones side. I am just reporting on my individual transaction with Jim.

[Guest]

Skymajic.
You must understand this....

I will go to the ends of the earth to help you with any problem you may have, not just with LEDs or Gold Wings, but anything that I could possibly help you with.

But sending me an email that starts out with the word "Sucks" makes me tend to be a little less helpful.

When you wish to talk about this without the harsh words, let me know and we will get this problem solved.

Jim,

[Skymajic]

I have no doubt that Jim is an upstanding guy. My problems aren't even with the lights. The problem is with the instructions provided, and his handling of my frustration caused in part by those instructions.




The instructions asked that the trunk be unplugged from the main harness.
The diagram shows the trunk disconnected from [2] and spliced into [1] at 3 points. green, green yellow, and brown. That must be three of the resisters because he very adamantly states, don't cut any wires, and doesn't provide plain wire to make a splice with.

What [3] and [4] are I have no idea. The instruction/diagram doesn't say.

No where in these instructions does it say anything about the signal lights. It also doesn't say anything about the idiot light remaining on with the LED's and is normal. (wouldn't a resistor solve that problem?)

And what about the front signals? How and where do I access those wires? Or do ya need too? Four resistors, one for each signal light?

[Skymajic]

Here's what I have done, that doesn't work.



this image shows the harness taken apart back to the gas tank. This was needed because in the harness there are sometimes more than one of the same color. Also, he states just one saddle bag, and I assumed he must have ment both, so I traced back to where those connections diverge left and right.


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This image shows my connections to the trunk light harness, as instructed.


I'd really like to have this problem solved. Perhaps in the process a few people might learn a few things, including myself.

[Guest]

Skymajic, you didn't even come close to following the instructions. I've never installed a set, I don't have them on my bike,
and I can see from your pictures, you're very confused. And from your tone, you're very frustrated. Let's take it down a
notch, and make your lights work. Okay?
The connector 3/4 is the subharness for the saddlebag lights. All of the taps should be on that harness, not the main harness
as you have them. You've got a resistor tapped into the brake light circuit where none belongs. I can't see what else you done.
I know Jim has had some issues of late, but this one is not his fault. Of course, he should have helped, and better instructions
wouldn't hurt.
Send me a PM and we'll get you set up. Hopefully someone on the forum can document an installation procedure in the future
that's goof-proof.

[William_86]

I have read some people complaining about Jim on the Chat, i used to recommend him for led bulbs all around the net before i started listening he was not returning emails or calls.


anyway.

its a little confusing to me why you need to tap the trunk to a saddlebag harness? i thought the only modification to do was to add the resistors

oh and the dash light will not come off! i know that

[Skymajic]

The lights themselves are beautiful. I do want to keep them,
though if the problem isn't resolved very soon I will likely put
the bulbs back in. I hate losing sunny days riding time.

I really do hope that everbody involved doesn't just get all
defensive and takes the opportunity to learn from this situation.
I mean, if it happened to me, no matter how unlikely it might be,
the same problem could happen with someone else. And wouldn't
it be so much better if things could be changed, due to this
experience, and it does not happen ever again to anybody else?
Wouldn't it be wise to "idiot proof" the instructions just a little
bit more?

As of this point, no one from LED nights has offered any
consolation for my frustration and problems. So far,
nobody seems to care and instead seem to desire to put
the blame squarely on me, which I do reject.

(It's not my fault you're an idiot. "Experts" have told me that my
instructions are perfect! Besides, your letter wasn't very nice,
so I'm not gonna talk nice to you, OR send instructions to fix the
problem unless you ask nice!!)

[William_86]

this post has been deleted

[Skymajic]

Actually, up until his first reply, this wasn't at all about Jim.
Not even slightly.

The issue was the instructions, which were to me less than straight forward.


Now, maybe I'm the only person on this planet that has this problem,
does that matter? The problem none the less exists.

Bottom line.....
My LED lights still do not function!
Resolution has not yet been offered to my satisfaction!
(he did offer to let me call and he'd provide his number,
if I asked nicely. I'd prefer written instructions)

[William_86]

this post has been deleted

[William_86]

this post has been deleted

[redwing1984]

I just wanted to add my voice to this issue. I received the entire package from Jim and I must say the Turn signals worked like a charm, the modification diagram was easy to understand, however, I am an electricican by trade with electronic, PLC and instrumentation endorsements on my license.
My problem was with the tail/brake lights, I assumed the problem was in the sockets, I cleaned the contacts, slightly bent the sides in to make a better ground contact, made the modifications as Jim stated , after actually having to apply pressure with my fingers to keep the bulbs lit, I gave up, four hours later. I went to work that night and thought about this problem, and I thought Why not try a different bulb. I Had purchased some festoon bulbs and some smaller bulbs for my trunk conversion kit and while I was at it I bought a couple of spare 1157 ambers. I tried one in the trunk and it was bright, however, when I applied the brakes their was no difference, so I tried two 1157 ambers in the trunk and WOW, they worked like a charm. After extensive field trials I have determined that the tail/brake lights were my problem. I have to say that I ordered six 1157 red's from the same company that I ordered the festoon bulbs from four for the wing and two spares. I will not say which company I am getting these from, all I will say is that their may have been a problem with the tail/brake led's. Now it was mentioned that some of the wire colors were the same. Your right. The right side front turn signal had a blue wire for the running light and a blue wire for the turn signal, heaven forbid that somebody working in a factory on a friday afternoon assembling a GL1200 that they probably could not afford would ever stray from a wiring diagram. If your going to undertake something like this, even as a Professional Tradesman I still used my Fluke digital multimeter to test the wiring to determine whether the wire I was connecting the resistor to, was the running light circuit or the turn signal circuit.
In closing I want to say that Jim's diagram is fairly self explanatory, and a little thought must be put into this when undertaking such a task.
I'm also sure that it can be very frustrating when you plug in these led's and they do not work or give you problems, but i have spoken to Jim personally and he seems like somebody that will work with you rather then against you. Give him a chance to do just that.
Mark

[Skymajic]

I did speak with Jim first. His reply was less than positive. Granted, my e-mail
wasn't sweet and cheerful either.

As to the instructions. I am not a mechanic. I am not an electrician. I'm not an
electronics technician. You all have to stop assuming that everybody who rides
a bike knows everything that you do. I know several people personally who don't
know how to fix their bikes, and don't want to know how. They have no problem
paying a mechanic to do that. I would too, but I can't afford that option.

These instructions, I'm sorry, are not adequate. To some of you who have considerable
experience with such things, intuitively it makes sense to you. You already have
basic understanding and those things that are left out you can easily assume.
Had I NOT been given these instructions, and were instead told what the wires
all were according to their color coding, and what the resistor was supposed to
do, I could have figured the rest out. But, knowing I am NOT an expert, I decided
instead to follow these instructions to the letter. What I did not know is that some
letters are missing! These are things that someone familiar with such things doesn't
need to be told. Ya get what I'm trying to say yet?


If this kit is sold ONLY to bike mechanics, or electronics technicians, or electrical
engineers, then the instructions are quite adequate. Other wise, to a regular hard
working, forklift driving, blue collar warehouseman like myself, as i said already,
these instructions suck!