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1985 GL1200 Aspencade Poor Boy Install
I want to thank everyone on GL1220Goldwings forum for their efforts, articles and advice on the Poor Boy alternator conversion.

There has been much written about installing a Poor Boy Alternator Conversion on these Goldwings. I won't write further as all has been addressed...many times. I will simply make comments as to particulars of my install and post a link to my photobucket - it is public and has lots of photos and even a video of my install.

http://s1247.photobucket.com/user/Sc...?sort=2&page=1

First, this was a painful decision for me as I really did not want to modify a 29-year-old Aspencade with just 30,000 miles on the odometer. I like things to be stock, or an unnoticeable improvement to stock (better tires, improved lighting, better seat...things like that). But I deplore doing things TWICE! And I could not convince myself that pulling the motor and replacing the stator, and, in my case, replacing the R/R, would result in a reliable alternator. So I did the Poor Boy.

I offer my thanks and congratulations to Don Pigott, inventor and supplier of the Poor Boy. It is a high quality kit that offers a viable alternative to constant worry over stator failure. Thank you, Don! And, I believe it is a ONE-TIME event!!

On my install everything was pretty normal I think. It took me about 3 slow days - I am very fussy - and I estimate about 14 hours of actual work. The tools I used were: motorcycle lift, handtools, die grinder (air), Dremel, multi-meter, Impact Driver (air), Torque wrenches, straight edge, etc. The air tools save a lot of time and are a great convenience.

[Image: P1040579_zps345ec00e.jpg]
[Image: P1040580_zps21a77688.jpg]

On my install, I had some alignment issues and tried to adjust the drive pulley with a spacer, the alternator upper and lower brackets with spacers. In the end, no mods were needed, except perhaps an elongation of the Poor Boy upper Adapter bracket mounting holes. However I was convinced my Poor Boy pulley was going to rub on the timing belt covers, so I used the thick factory washer that was originally under the crankshaft pulley bolt. I put that thick washer under the Poor Boy pulley. That moved the pulley forward about 1/8". While I snugged up the right cover when I was test fitting everything, it did rub. However, when it was torqued down properly in final assembly, that additional 1/8" clearance was not required. Like Poor Boy advised, tighten the cover up, but don't strip it. I left the washer in place though and found another washer to go between the bolt head and the Poor Boy pulley. The thick washer actually allowed my upper alternator bracket to align properly anyways; had I removed it, I would have had to adjust that upper bracket by elongating the two mounting bolt holes.

When the upper horn mount is removed and the Poor Boy upper bracket installed, the front fairing fitting goes under the new bracket...just like the instructions state. I found that during my test fitting I left that fairing fitting off for convenience and I suggest to not do so. It causes the Poor Boy upper bracket to tilt downwards somewhat at the front bolt and this tilt is necessary for the alternator to be tilted just right to match the motor's crank pulley tilt. As it makes the alternator tilt downward somewhat at its front, the alternator mates up to the upper bracket properly...and that was the source of my ill-figured alignment problems.

Re-using the horn was very easy and I haven't seen anyone else do this in my research. The horn attaches to the bike with a "strap" and the upper hole of that strap is where the original bolt goes to fix the horn to the frame/horn bracket...the one that is cut out for the Poor Boy install. I simply enlarged that hole so it would fit over the lower alternator mounting bolt, twisted the strap a bit and made an extension to the wiring. Zowie! It fits nicely...and if I can get it behind all my lights, anyone can fit it! Simple.

On the alternator wiring: I ran an 8 gauge wire from the alternator's BATT post to a manual reset circuit breaker that I mounted where the old 3-wire stator connector resided. From there I ran a short 8 ga wire, coated with several layers of heat shrink over the top of the battery and behind the bolt that holds the battery in place. I used washer to space out that bolt so it would not hit the wire connecting the positive battery post to the circuit breaker. I used the alternator recommended by Poor Boy, i.e., one from a 1991 Geo Metro made by Nippon Denso. That alternator requires a wire from a switched 12 VDC source to activate the alternator's internal regulator. I used a 16 ga (I know Poor Boy says use a 14 ga, but this wire provides a voltage and not much current) from the IG spade on the rear of the alternator to the Black w/ light Green wire that is found in the bottom half of the 8-pin connector that originally went to the Rectifier/Regulator. This Blk w/grn wire comes from the #4 fuse in the fuse box (on an Aspencade) and it is supplied with voltage from the ignition switch in only the "on" position. [Note that the fuses are not numbered from top to bottom in the fuse block; you have to look at the schematic to see which is #4.] Some folks have been using the ACC terminals to run a wire to the IG spade. While that works, it turns the alternator on in the ignition switch ACC position as well as in the On position. That is not so good, IMO. The blk w/grn wire is a wire Honda dedicated to "turning on" the R/R; it is fused, it provides the proper place for the alternator voltage sensing as well as "turning on" the alternator's regulator.

A word of caution. I read that many are simply disconnecting the 8-pin connector at the R/R and leaving it at that. As far as the R/R is concerned, that is okay as if no current is supplied to the R/R, it is benign. HOWEVER, the bottom half of that 8-pin connector has live spades in it! They need to be isolated from potential shorts. The 3 yellow wires carry the AC current from the stator and if the stator is even partially functioning those wire will be live. Remember the original stator is powered by the permanent magnets on the rotor. When the rotor turns, current flows in the stator, always unless it is totally "open" between the three phases. If the stator is not connected to anything, there will be no load so there is no, or little, engine power being consumed from an electrical energy standpoint (except the shorts in the stator coils!). I put female crimp type spade connectors on the yellow wire spades and sealed them with silicon. They'll come right off if desired, but they won't short out. Of just as much concern are the two red w/white wires in the bottom half of that 8-pin connector. These were the wires providing the ouput of the R/R to the battery via the main 30-amp fuse. They are live - ALWAYS! The only thing between those spades to the red w/white wire and the battery is the 30-amp main fuse. Please cover those up. And then, of course, the black w/light green wire is also live when the bike's ignition is on. If it is not used, I suggest it be covered as well.

That's it! Everything went pretty normal I believe. You'll have to fuss with the belt alignment, at least I did, and the fairing alignment is tedious, but I went slow and am very pleased with the results.

Speaking of which:
My battery measures 12.96 volts when fully charged (it is brand new), motor not running
The ACC terminals measure 12.93 vdc, motor not running and nothing on.
My dash gauge reads 12.60 vdc when the Fluke multimeter reads 12.93 vdc at the ACC point.
Running, at idle, my dash gauge reads 12.1 vdc and the Fluke reads 12.81 vdc (at the aCC terminals). I think battery voltage was falling during this measurement, so it is inconsistent.
At 2000 rpm, the dash gauge reads 13.7vdc and the Fluke at the battery terminals measures 14.27vdc and the Fluke at the ACC terminals measures 13.74vdc.

This seems to be consistent with previous measurements in that I have about 0.5vdc voltage drop from the battery to the far side of the ignition switch and on to the fuse block.

Alternator kicks in at about 1300 rpm. When all the lights are on and the fan motor is running, radio is on at 2000 rpm, the dash gauge reads 13.5vdc. I'd say this is all goodness! I have about 260 watts of lights up front They light up nicely...but then they always did until the stator fried.

I have put about 120 miles on the Poor Boy now, and all is well. I am happy!
Reply
#1 07-14-2014, 09:14 AM,
excellent.

I pulled the engine twice.... not a third time.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

Reply
#2 07-14-2014, 11:07 AM,
(07-14-2014, 11:07 AM)SIR tricky Wrote: excellent.

I pulled the engine twice.... not a third time.

Thanks Tricky. I sent you a PM. Scot
Reply
#3 07-14-2014, 02:49 PM,
Good write up!
Make Courtesy Your "Code of the Road" ......

[Image: 85Winggoodphoto500w.jpg]

...... and whatever you do ... Have a Safe Trip! :shy:
Reply
#4 12-18-2015, 02:57 PM,


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