Odometer/trip gauge problem

[DC44]

All:

My odometer and trip gauge have quit working. I noticed last week that my trip mileage stayed at 136 miles as I continued to drive. The trip meter will reset to 0000 if that matters. Also the speedometer works but it will move up and down 2 or 3 miles an hour sometimes, which is a new problem.

So the odometer doesn't work along with the trip recorder, speedometer continues to work but is slightly erratic. Ideas?

Thanks,
DC

[bs175dths]

On the Interstates, the speedometer is strictly mechanical: cutout in front hub turns gears in speedometer box assembly which turns the speedometer cable which diflects the speedometer needle......

At the front wheel, remove the speedometer cable from the speedometer box assembly.
With the front wheel off the ground, (bottle jack under case savers), spin the front wheel as if the bike was rolling down the highway, wind in your face, passing traffic and enjoying the freedom which two wheels can ......... sorry, A.D.D.!
While the front wheel is spinning, see if the little nub in the speedometer box is rotating.
If it is not.... remove the speedometer box from the axle and inspect it. Replace if necessary.
If it is rotating, grab the tip of the speedometer cable and pull. See if the cable is broken.
If the cable doesn't come out or if the cable is not broken, reconnect the cable to the speedometer box.
This is the fun part....
Remove the cable from the back side of the speedometer.
This involves removing the headlight to gain access to the bolts which hold the gauge cluster to the fairing.
It take some time to remove the headlight so budget time accordingly.

Once gauges are out and the cable is disconnected from the back of the gauges, rotate the wheel again as if the bike was rolling down the highway, wind in your face, passing traffic and enjoying the freedom which two wheels can ......... (squirrl)
see if the end of the cable is rotating.
If the cable is rotating, your speedometer gauge may need replacing.
The gauge can be removed from the cluster and the mechanical workings will be exposed and available for inspection.

It is fun stuff....... really.

Good Luck.

-Ride On

[DC44]

At the front wheel, remove the speedometer cable from the speedometer box assembly.
With the front wheel off the ground, (bottle jack under case savers), spin the front wheel as if the bike was rolling down the highway, wind in your face, passing traffic and enjoying the freedom which two wheels can ......... sorry, A.D.D.


It is fun stuff....... really.

Good Luck.

-Ride On

Thanks for the suggestions, appreciate it. Thing is, I know the speedo cable is turning, the speedometer needle moving to the correct speed shows that to be true. Any idea how the internal mechanism/gears in the speedometer mesh together? Possible that an output gear to the odometer is broken?

This is a real problem because I use mileage to determine when it's time to refill the gas tank. My gas gauge needle shows Full when Full but after 30 miles of driving it drops to Empty, which as you can imagine requires one to rely on the miles driven to determine refill time....I typically go 160-170 before filling up to be on the safe side.

I'll check the connection on the wheel where the cable is secured and let you know if I find anything.

Thanks again,
DC

[Poorboy]

If you speedometer is working & just the odometer is not I don't think it is repairable.
Poorboy

[bs175dths]

It is all nylon or plastic gearing in there.
No individual replacement parts are available.
Easiest way to fix this is to replace the speedometer.

However, have you looked at the fuel sending unit in the gas tank?
The sending unit is rather simple and may only need some light cleaning to allow it to function again.

Working in a well ventilated area is a must when working around flammable, explosive stuff!

Remove your seat, note what wire on the sending unit goes where then remove the wires. Slowly and carefully remove the lock ring using a slot screw driver and a hammer. If you have never done this before you will quickly discover the proper angle to hold the screw driver to allow getting the lock ring off. Installation is just in reverse using the same gentle touch.
Remove the lock ring and then remove the sending unit. Some rotating of the unit will be required since the sending unit has a bend to it.
Located at the opposite end of the float is a 'finger' which rubs against a piece of metal with some small ribbing on it.
I suspect the ribbed part is dirty or has some corrosion on it inhibiting it from properly registering the level of fuel.
Try cleaning this using a gentle touch. (remember, it is not working now, so if this doesn't work, it is no big deal.)
Once clean, reconnect the wires to the sending unit without installing the unit in the tank.
You will need to run a jumper wire from the body of the sending unit to a ground on the bike.
While holding the sending unit in your hand, turn the key but don't start the engine.
While holding the sending unit in one hand, with the other hand, slowly move the float along its range of movement.
Does the fuel gauge needle deflect?
If it doesn't, try some more cleaning and if it still doesn't work, then look at replacing the gauge cluster.
If it does, reassemble the bike and test it again.

These are simple (repairable) devices.

-Ride On

[DC44]

If you speedometer is working & just the odometer is not I don't think it is repairable.
Poorboy

Thanks Poorboy, I figured the entire panel would need to be replaced.

---

I suspect the ribbed part is dirty or has some corrosion on it inhibiting it from properly registering the level of fuel.
Try cleaning this using a gentle touch. (remember, it is not working now, so if this doesn't work, it is no big deal.)
Once clean, reconnect the wires to the sending unit without installing the unit in the tank.
You will need to run a jumper wire from the body of the sending unit to a ground on the bike.
While holding the sending unit in your hand, turn the key but don't start the engine.
While holding the sending unit in one hand, with the other hand, slowly move the float along its range of movement.
Does the fuel gauge needle deflect?
If it doesn't, try some more cleaning and if it still doesn't work, then look at replacing the gauge cluster.
If it does, reassemble the bike and test it again.

These are simple (repairable) devices.

-Ride On

I really appreciate the detailed instructions. I'll give it a try this weekend and let you know the result.

best,
DC