Re-assembly questions

[pstelter]

Thanks again to BigBro for the slide diaphragm re-test procedure. Turns out I needed a couple of extra tries on carb #2.

Having come through that, I have begun re-assembling the carbs, but they don't want to go together. I can get them in place with no o-rings installed, but that won't work. When I install the o-rings where I think they should go, the pipes don't want to seat and the carbs just fall apart.

1. The Randakk kit comes with four small o-rings per carb but doesn't tell you where they should go. Two appear to be identical, one is the same diameter but thicker, and one is really small. Attached is a picture that shows how I have them assigned them. Is this correct? What are the small o-rings for?

2. The second picture shows the throttle linkage for carb #2 as it engages with the linkage for carb #4. However, it looks like it will interfere with the arm spring that is installed between the yoke arms on #4. Is this the correct set-up?

Thanks.

- Pete

[pstelter]

Ok...based on the detailed description on the Randakk website, I was able to identify what O-ring goes with what application AND I was able to determine what the mystery O-ring was...turns out it was for the float bowl drain. Funny thing was I don't remember removing an O-ring from there. Hmmm...

So now the question becomes...how do I put this stuff back together? Should I mount one carb of a pair (i.e., 2 or 4) on the plenum and then connect the other to it? Or do I continue to try and connect the pair together and then connect both to the plenum?

Thanks for all your help thus far.

- Pete

[Roleketu]

Ok...based on the detailed description on the Randakk website, I was able to identify what O-ring goes with what application AND I was able to determine what the mystery O-ring was...turns out it was for the float bowl drain. Funny thing was I don't remember removing an O-ring from there. Hmmm...

So now the question becomes...how do I put this stuff back together? Should I mount one carb of a pair (i.e., 2 or 4) on the plenum and then connect the other to it? Or do I continue to try and connect the pair together and then connect both to the plenum?

Thanks for all your help thus far.

- Pete

I just completed my carb rebuild project a couple weeks ago. As always, I photo everything I do before I disassemble anything. So here's a photo of carburetor assembly 2 & 4. I also used a sharpie marker and numbered each carburetor on every side so I'd always know which one was which. So, the bowl vent tube has the short side to #4. The slow air tube has the long side to #4. The fuel pipe doesn't matter. I hope this helps.

[pstelter]

Thanks for the reply...I know the orientation of how things are supposed to go, it's just that they weren't going together well.

The carbs are finally re-assembled, but I would like some guidance on the fuel supply.

Attached is a picture of my setup. I could not find the right size fuel hose so I used 1/4". Works fine for all of the applications except for the supply to #4. The larger hose doesn't bend as easily, but so it looks like it is over-flexed on the carb connection. My biggest concern is that the hose runs right along the throttle linkage. I'm worried that the repeated throttle action will eventually erode right through the hose. Any suggestions on what I could use for a chafing guard? I''ve thought of electrical tape, but that would look as nice and is not as durable.

Note: I have since moved the left-side T-clamp to the carb connection. I think it will work, but need to guard the fuel hose before I install.

[bs175dths]

Any sort of guard used to protect the fuel line from getting damaged by constant use of the throttle linkage is going to reduce the amount of space between the moving part of the throttle linkage and the stationary fuel line to carburetor number 4.
Basically, the two will be rubbing each other when in use, and that means resistance.
Your throttle needs to snap closed when the throttle lever is released in all situations and in all rotating positions of the handlbars. It is a matter of safety!
Given the current availability of the fuel line in use, try trimming small amounts of tubing until sufficient clearance is achieved. Keep in mind not trimming this line too short.
If that doesn't work, locating the proper size fuel line may be your best (safest) bet.

BTW - the supplied photograph clearly shows the hose clamp closest to number 4 carburetor is tighter than its neighbor. Remember, that T fitting is plastic and they can be crushed by overtightening clamps. Backing off just a bit might be in order. Remember too, Mother Honda used those little, light duty clamps to hold the fuel lines. They have just enough pressure to hold the hose to the fitting and not cause a leak.

ps - I like to use a socket on a driver (not a rachet) to tighten these little guys, just until the excess band starts to curve.

[pstelter]

Correction to my previous post. The interference area was next to carb 3 not carb 4.

Big thanks to bs175dths...your suggestion to use the "proper" size line was right on target. The stock fuel hose is 5.3 mm, which is about 3.2/16 of an inch. Went down to the local Bumper-to-Bumper today and picked up 2 ft of 3/16" fuel line to use from the T-fitting to the carbs. The 3/16 is much more flexible than the 1/4. Since I went down a size, I could use the Honda wire clamps.

Still have a little interference problem but not nearly as pronounced as with the 1/4 line. To protect it, I used some of the hose guard that was on the bike before the cleaning started. I needed to split it length-wise so I could wrap it around the installed hose (see attached). Thanks for the suggestion!

- Pete