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Poor Boy wiring question
I have 8 ga. and 14 ga wires from Alt'r installed - properly fused
Question:
I have an EC harness installed from the last stator replacement I did. Can you tell me how much of that stays and how much should be removed? There is a red wire that goes to the coil I believe near the front of the forks. Seems that would be necessary to stay.
Thanks for any direction you can give.
I may make Laconia Bike week this weekend afterall.
Mark
Northwood, NH
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#1 06-12-2014, 04:45 AM,
I had installed the EC harness before my Poorboy conversion. I talked to EC on the phone. Only thing you need to do is unplug the OEM regulator.
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#2 06-12-2014, 11:51 AM,
So I took the whole harness out - including the relay from which there were two brown wires that replaced the original coil wires. I took out the regulator too. Then I crossed m fingers and hit the start button. She fired right up. Today's 90 mile test ride produced these observations:
- idles at 600 - previously 800
- OD light shines bright as soon as I shift into fourth. Previously light came on only occasionally - not sure how or why.
- snap crackle pop noise on start up after cool down - first 1/2 mile or so - then it goes away. Not sure what to make of that.
- stalled out with a backfire while cruising - pulled over - and it started right up with another backfire. Next time it happened I didn't pull over and just hit the start button - no backfire this time. It happened one more time - all in the first 25 miles of the test drive. Maybe it's outta her system. Anybody have an idea? Probably not related to PB conversion. Fact is I've had an occasional backfire on slow down while in gear for about a season and a half. I'm going to synch the carbs and go from there. Wish I had replaced the air shutoff valve at carb rebuild.
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#3 06-15-2014, 04:06 PM,
might want to up the idle to between 850 and 1000
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#4 06-15-2014, 04:12 PM,
When I had backfiring like that, it was a bad head-gasket. Compression testing and looking at spark-plugs might confirm.
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#5 06-15-2014, 07:01 PM,
(06-15-2014, 04:06 PM)mobiewan Wrote: So I took the whole harness out - including the relay from which there were two brown wires that replaced the original coil wires. I took out the regulator too. Then I crossed m fingers and hit the start button. She fired right up. Today's 90 mile test ride produced these observations:
- idles at 600 - previously 800
- OD light shines bright as soon as I shift into fourth. Previously light came on only occasionally - not sure how or why.
- snap crackle pop noise on start up after cool down - first 1/2 mile or so - then it goes away. Not sure what to make of that.
- stalled out with a backfire while cruising - pulled over - and it started right up with another backfire. Next time it happened I didn't pull over and just hit the start button - no backfire this time. It happened one more time - all in the first 25 miles of the test drive. Maybe it's outta her system. Anybody have an idea? Probably not related to PB conversion. Fact is I've had an occasional backfire on slow down while in gear for about a season and a half. I'm going to synch the carbs and go from there. Wish I had replaced the air shutoff valve at carb rebuild.


I had the snap crackle and pops, checked out all kinds of things, sometimes ride all day, sometimes not start for a while..... ended up changing the pulse regulators.... just something for you to think about if it doesnt clear up. I also have the external alternator.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#6 06-16-2014, 04:58 AM,
... as far as a back fire at down shift, yea, the air cut-off valve is supposed to prevent back firing, but an exhaust leak with also produce the same back firing.
Check the exhaust system for leaks.
I ran my hand over the system and found two pin holes on the underside of where the left and right headers join (the large, bulbuss part).
I DID THE LAYING ON OF HANDS WHEN THE EXHAUST SYSTEM WAS STILL COOL AFTER ENGINE WAS FIRST STARTED. DON'T DO THIS WITH A HOT ENGINE!!!!

In my case, fixing the pin holes didn't cure what ailed me. But for an unrelated reason, I completely removed the system and found a crack. Once sealed, my back firing ceased.

just another avenue........
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#7 06-16-2014, 11:51 AM,
thanks, I'll give those ideas some consideration and let you know what I find.
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#8 06-16-2014, 05:23 PM,
(06-16-2014, 04:58 AM)SIR tricky Wrote:
(06-15-2014, 04:06 PM)mobiewan Wrote: So I took the whole harness out - including the relay from which there were two brown wires that replaced the original coil wires. I took out the regulator too. Then I crossed m fingers and hit the start button. She fired right up. Today's 90 mile test ride produced these observations:
- idles at 600 - previously 800
- OD light shines bright as soon as I shift into fourth. Previously light came on only occasionally - not sure how or why.
- snap crackle pop noise on start up after cool down - first 1/2 mile or so - then it goes away. Not sure what to make of that.
- stalled out with a backfire while cruising - pulled over - and it started right up with another backfire. Next time it happened I didn't pull over and just hit the start button - no backfire this time. It happened one more time - all in the first 25 miles of the test drive. Maybe it's outta her system. Anybody have an idea? Probably not related to PB conversion. Fact is I've had an occasional backfire on slow down while in gear for about a season and a half. I'm going to synch the carbs and go from there. Wish I had replaced the air shutoff valve at carb rebuild.


I had the snap crackle and pops, checked out all kinds of things, sometimes ride all day, sometimes not start for a while..... ended up changing the pulse regulators.... just something for you to think about if it doesnt clear up. I also have the external alternator.


Tricky
Can you tell me more about the pulse regulator? I looked for such a thing on ebay and its not obvious to me what you are suggesting I replace. The noise sounds almost like studded snow tires on the road. It's still there. I wouldn't mind trying your idea, I just don't know what to buy. DO you think it has anything to do with the fact that I've removed the regulator altogether?

(06-16-2014, 04:58 AM)SIR tricky Wrote:
(06-15-2014, 04:06 PM)mobiewan Wrote: So I took the whole harness out - including the relay from which there were two brown wires that replaced the original coil wires. I took out the regulator too. Then I crossed m fingers and hit the start button. She fired right up. Today's 90 mile test ride produced these observations:
- idles at 600 - previously 800
- OD light shines bright as soon as I shift into fourth. Previously light came on only occasionally - not sure how or why.
- snap crackle pop noise on start up after cool down - first 1/2 mile or so - then it goes away. Not sure what to make of that.
- stalled out with a backfire while cruising - pulled over - and it started right up with another backfire. Next time it happened I didn't pull over and just hit the start button - no backfire this time. It happened one more time - all in the first 25 miles of the test drive. Maybe it's outta her system. Anybody have an idea? Probably not related to PB conversion. Fact is I've had an occasional backfire on slow down while in gear for about a season and a half. I'm going to synch the carbs and go from there. Wish I had replaced the air shutoff valve at carb rebuild.


I had the snap crackle and pops, checked out all kinds of things, sometimes ride all day, sometimes not start for a while..... ended up changing the pulse regulators.... just something for you to think about if it doesnt clear up. I also have the external alternator.


Tricky
Can you tell me more about the pulse regulator? I looked for such a thing on ebay and its not obvious to me what you are suggesting I replace. The noise sounds almost like studded snow tires on the road. It's still there. I wouldn't mind trying your idea, I just don't know what to buy. DO you think it has anything to do with the fact that I've removed the regulator altogether?
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#9 06-18-2014, 05:50 PM,
If your problems started after doing some changes start looking closer at what you did.

Both my bikes don't have the regulator on as it is not required with the external alternator.

I did remove my EC harness when I installed the external alternator.

I didn't notice any difference.

Usually one main symptom of a failing PG is that the bike will fire up fine run until the PG's get hot then stop, after the engine has cooled down the bike will run again till it gets hot.

Changing the PG's is not something I would do unless I had exhausted all other options.

You can do a test on them without removing them.

Measure resistance: White/yellow and yellow leads (1 -2 cylinders), White/blue and blue leads (3-4 cylinders).
Resistance at 20" C (68" F), After '84: 330 + OR - 33 Ohms

You could test them cold then get the engine hot then retest them,

BTW I have had them test out OK but when replaced cleared up the problem.

Item 19 are the pulse gens part# 30300-MG9-681 NOTE THE 84 PG'S ARE DIFFERENT

If you do decide to replace them buy them new from a Honda dealer, you could be getting someone elses problem from EBAY


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The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#10 06-19-2014, 04:54 AM,


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