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Solenoid Upgrade Fuse Issue
A few years ago as suggested by the knowledgeable folks on this site, I did the Solenoid fuse upgrade. Yesterday as I was applying brakes for a yellow/red light, the bike died, all power lost. Fortunately, as I do ALL my own work I knew right where to start. I went to check the main upgraded fuse and to my surprise, the fuse wasn't just blown, the fuse holder and fuse were melted. Similar to the three yellow wire stator connectors. I did an emergency repair, cutting out the melted fuse holder and direct connected the wires. I keep a few Posi-Lock connectors in my tool kit. These are fantastic alternatives to standard crimp connectors. Somewhat expensive to use all the time, but great for having on hand in these emergency situations. And they're reusable. I'm assuming there's not an electrical issue. I figure the fuse holder failed, the connection unstable causing a heat build up like the OEM stator connectors. I have added huge amounts of extra lighting over the past years. (Around 60 marker lamps and two driving lamps). However, the power source for the lighting has a relay that draws directly from the battery. The only part of the extra lighting that travels through the solenoid fuse is the ACC keyed terminal that triggers the relay to draw battery power. Today I upgraded to the Maxi Fuse. Keeping with the OEM 30 amp fuse. Very much more sturdier fuse holder. And used 10 gauge wire. Oh and added a couple globs of dielectric grease.


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#1 05-18-2014, 07:56 PM,
Happened to me....

Fuse must be tight in the holder.

Examine regularly...... 30 amps is a lot of heat when things get loose


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The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#2 05-19-2014, 04:42 AM,
alot of the 30amp fusholders are sub-par and will fail relatively fast, POSI-LOCK makes an ato fuseholder that will hold a fuseholder firmly,hard enough to get the fuse into the holder and you'll need pliers to pull it out btdt
http://www.posi-lock.com/shoponline.cfm#3
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#3 05-19-2014, 06:28 AM,
The Picture Sir Tricky shows looks like the same unit I and probably most folks are running.
I will add this to my 'Things to Regularly Check' List.

Thanks!
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#4 05-19-2014, 02:17 PM,
after looking closely at "roleketu" pictures it would appear that part of problem may be overheating the 30 amp fuse which occurs when more than 25 amps are run for extended times,had same problems with my sei since i run driving lights fulltime and often use a cigarette lighter which flirts that 30 amp rating,i now run the charge line(red/white) directly thru a fused circuit directly to the battery and the stock 30 fuse now sees less than 10 amps thru it but the charge line still sees the larger current

this is a similar situation which occurs when a poorboy kit is installed on a 1200,which places the charge directly to the battery
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#5 05-20-2014, 02:56 PM,
I don't think I have much amperage going through the main fuse. All my extra's, marker lamps, driving lamps, iPhone charger, and even the coils are relayed direct to the battery. So the only power going through the main fuse should be the OEM markers, brake lamps, turn signals, and headlamp.
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#6 05-21-2014, 05:41 PM,
if you still have the stock stator,any power used runs thru the 30 amp fuse regardless if its connected to the battery or not
remember that any power used by the battery is recharged thru the regulator and runs thru the 30 amp fuse back to the battery

if you can find a shop or someone with a clamp-on dc ammeter i think you would be surprised as to what current are you using,i had the same thoughts as you before i got an ammeter,with total use of led lights,HID headlight and two driving lights my sei pulls 21 amps,use of a cogarette lighter brings it momentarily to 30 amps and once or twice a year i would melt a fuse
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#7 05-21-2014, 08:49 PM,
(05-21-2014, 08:49 PM)neoracer Wrote: if you still have the stock stator,any power used runs thru the 30 amp fuse regardless if its connected to the battery or not
remember that any power used by the battery is recharged thru the regulator and runs thru the 30 amp fuse back to the battery

if you can find a shop or someone with a clamp-on dc ammeter i think you would be surprised as to what current are you using,i had the same thoughts as you before i got an ammeter,with total use of led lights,HID headlight and two driving lights my sei pulls 21 amps,use of a cogarette lighter brings it momentarily to 30 amps and once or twice a year i would melt a fuse

I have elected to use a different type of fuse than the maxi spade fuse. It is a buss type normally used in high power car stereo applications. Readily found fuses in 30, 40, 50 amp ratings. The mating surfaces are gold plated that helps with corrosion and resistance and the holder can be bought with seals or without. Easy to seal either way. I have been running it with a 30 amp fuse for the factory alternator setup, but am now installing a Poor Boy, so I'll measure the current usage when I am done and fuse/wire accordingly. [Image: fuseholder_zps17fa8e7a.jpg]
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#8 06-30-2014, 05:59 AM,
(05-19-2014, 06:28 AM)neoracer Wrote: alot of the 30amp fusholders are sub-par and will fail relatively fast, ... etc ....
Why I always pull them apart and solder the wire where crimped into the button on the end that contacts the fuse itself.

Actually ..... I solder just about all crimps for that reason.
Make Courtesy Your "Code of the Road" ......

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...... and whatever you do ... Have a Safe Trip! :shy:
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#9 11-27-2016, 11:17 AM,


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