Rear brake bleed???

[seagullplayer]

Found my rear brake pads to be in very poor condition when we replaced the back tire last week, so I installed new pads. We ended up removing the brake caliber just to make everything easier, or so I thought.

On the bench using a C-clamp I opened the caliper pistons up and replaced the pads, also cleaned up the pins, everything seemed to work pretty good on the bench.

Once its installed, I have had little luck bleeding the brakes. I cracked the banjo fitting loose, and seem to have good flow there. But I am building very little pressure, it does release after I crack the bleeder, but then takes forever to build again. I road it Sunday and basically had no rear brake.

What am I doing wrong? I had fine brakes unit I changed pads and took the caliber off. So I think I can assume hose and main cylinder are ok? I filled the reservoir several times, more than what I got out, so I assume I am getting air out? Do I just need to keep going? I had help so we ran the bleed maybe 15-20 times with little success?

If I want to rebuild the caliber, where can I get parts? Do new pins come with it?

You can see the caliber compressing but with little pressure. And as far as I can tell, no leaking.

[Poorboy]

The 1200 Goldwing has linked brakes. One front caliper (left, I think ) works with the rear brake, so you will have to bleed it also & usually first. Poorboy

[seagullplayer]

I just read that, I am pretty sure that is my problem, I will bleed the front right when I get home tonight. (pretty sure its the right, I bleed the front left last week and it works fine.)

I wish I had known, but that is why I would rather work on it myself. This will be one of those things I never forget!

Thanks

[SIR tricky]

On the 1200 bikes:

Brakes
Brake Bleeding
NOTE: When bleeding the rear brake system, bleed the
right front caliper first, then the rear caliper.

[admin]

Note: if you have floorboards they often get in the way of the brake pedal full travel which prevents proper bleeding. Remove the right floorboard or remove the brake pedal and reinstall it counter clockwise a few splines up then change it back when the brakes are fully bled.

[Roleketu]

Do a quick and easy upgrade to the bleeder screws to Speed Bleeders. Simple direct replacement bleeders that have springloaded check valve for single person brake bleeding. I replaced all three caliper screws and the clutch screw. I just finished rebuilding all calipers and installed all new stainless steel braided brake and clutch lines and the bleeding process was so super easy. Cost is$7 each for OEM steel or $15 each for stainless steel.

[seagullplayer]

Got the brake situation cleared up, everything bleed and working smoothly.

But I have another issue now, I will start a new thread.

Thanks for the help!

[mtnsurgtech]

Okay correct me if im wrong but in my manual it shows the right front brake as the brake connected to the rear brake. Please let me know if im wrong here. Im in the process of rebuilding mt back brake system right now. Calipers are torn down, just waiting on new seals before putting them back together and re installing.

[SIR tricky]

correct.
This motorcycle has a unified brake system which provides simultaneous braking action of the right front and rear
disc brakes when the brake pedal is operated.

The hand brake lever operates the left front disc brake, which is
independent of the unified system.

[mtnsurgtech]

I have looked into speed bleeder and on one of their pages it says it is not really for starting from an empty system. Was just curious about that

[Roleketu]

I hadn't read that part. However, I just did all caliper rebuilds, replaced all brake and clutch lines. When I bled the lines, starting from empty, it went super smooth and bled fine.