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Battery dies while riding
1985 interstate Goldwing with 6 month old battery it will hold a charge, but when riding the battery will die and need a jump to get going again. The guy I got the bike from said he spliced a wire from +battery terminal to the main fuse hope that is all it is and not the I'm not even going to say (stator).
Found the three yellow stator wires & that is where the previous owner splice the wires can't tell if they were soldered or not the shrink tubing has melted and 2 of the 3 wires are touching might be causing a short? So I'm going to soldered them and put new shrink tubing on and see if that fixes it.

Thanks You Guys
For all the knowledge you pass on without
it I'd be totally lost instead just getting lost and able to stop and ask directions
The wife says I never ask for directions don't let her know please I would never hear the end of it. LOL
#1 04-04-2014, 09:53 AM,
you can repair the splice by soldering and heatshrinking,but if you have to do all three wires,before you do measure the voltage from the stator at 3K with an AC voltmeter,40-70v is what you are looking for,if that is ok,pull the false tank and check that connections at the regulator and also at the solenoid connector,any burnt areas will prevent battery from getting a proper charge
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

#2 04-04-2014, 10:25 AM,
After the repairs and the visual checking for burnt/melted wiring, fully charge the battery. (check the specific gravity of each of the cells to make sure they are at 100%)
A new, low quality battery can have you chasing your tail if you assume the battery is good-to-go.
Get the bike running at normal operating temperature and check the voltage going back to the battery.
A digital (easier to read than an analog) multimeter set to 20V DC set across the battery terminals will tell you if the battery is taking in volts or losing volts.
The multimeter across the ACC. of the fuse box will give the same results, just a slightly lower value given the voltage being dropped due to the number of connectors between the battery and the fuse box, and the age of the corrosion on the male and female pins in those plastic connectors.

If the stator and rectifier/regulator test out good, it IS only a matter of time before one or the other or both, give up.
It is in your future.

Good Luck.

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
#3 04-10-2014, 12:08 PM,

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