Getting ready to ride

[jaycojman43]

Ok with spring some where. Its getting time to work on the wing. Mine is a 84 Aspencade I'm getting ready to change both front and rear tires. Found a plug in the center of the rear one and I figure mind as well change front. Don't know when the p.o. did last. Also rebuilding carbs and new shocks in rear. My question is what should I look for or change while I have it apart.

[Roleketu]

First thing that came to mind was wheel bearings and seals. Check brake pads and calipers. With the rear wheel off grease the flange and might even want to remove the final drive assembly so you can put some grease on the drive shaft and u-joint splines.

[old gold]

First thing that came to mind was wheel bearings and seals. Check brake pads and calipers. With the rear wheel off grease the flange and might even want to remove the final drive assembly so you can put some grease on the drive shaft and u-joint splines.

IMHO, use Moly60 on the fingers and drive shaft splines. I'd also change the fork oil, engine oil & filter (if not done prior to lay up), grease the center stand, check air cleaner (maybe change), check the coolant level and color, peek at the gas filter, and check the spark plugs for condition and gap.

GL1200s are great machines made even better by regular maintenance.

We're hoping to add to the collection today, looking to buy an 86 Aspencade for the daughter.
Tom

[bs175dths]

Ok with spring some where. Its getting time to work on the wing. Mine is a 84 Aspencade I'm getting ready to change both front and rear tires. Found a plug in the center of the rear one and I figure mind as well change front. Don't know when the p.o. did last. Also rebuilding carbs and new shocks in rear. My question is what should I look for or change while I have it apart.

Reading the birth of your tire......on one side or the other, not on both sides, there is a ob-round with a three or four digit number impressed into it.
Three digits means it was made BEFORE the year 2000
Four digits means it was made AFTER the year 2000
If you have three digits, change the tires before the next ride.
If you have four digits, the first two digits correspond to the number of weeks, the second two digits correspond to the last two digits of the year.
Ex: 2313 in the ob-round means the tire was made on the 23rd week of the year 2013.

When servicing the rear tire, Moly 60 (no less than 60) needs to be applied to the splines and fingers of that spider looking thingie you carefully pried out of the rear rim. Moly 60 on the splines of the final drive is also a good idea. Look deep into the rim where the splines are to see if there is any old, dry Moly 60 buried in there keeping the spider thingie from fully seating into the rim.
There are two o rings, one is on the spider thingie and the other is difficult to see on the rear rim.
As was mentioned, the final drive could be removed and the splines on the drive shaft at the u-joint can be dressed with Moly 60 as well as the splines on both sides of the u-joint, and the output shaft. If you plan on removing the drive shaft from the final drive (it can be diffucult I have read) to Moly 60 those splines, the gasket in there will need to be replaced. From what I see, the gasket is still available from the Mother Ship.
Some warnings: to get to the u-joint, the swing arm boot needs to be moved and if it is old and tired like mine was, it will tear easily. It is still available from Honda at a reasonable price, but the inside, back lip can be difficult to seat properly. If replacing with new, be patient, or you might punch a hole in it. If reusing the old one, be patient or you might punch a hole in it.
When reassembling the final drive, make sure to leave the four bolts at the swing arm loose until the rear wheel is on and bolted down or the final drive may not align itself correctly.
When rebuilding the carbs, make sure to clean the throttle needle piston and the cylinder it floats in. I used gasoline because that is what the carbs were built to pass, and NOT the carb cleaners of today.
While the carb assembly is off, changing all those hoses might be a good idea. I tossed those little hose clamps and used safety wire (and wire twister) I had in the ol' tool box.
When reassembling the carbs to the heads, don't accidentally pinch those intake o rings.

As far as what you want to do to the bike, I would suggest ONE THING AT A TIME, or you may mix parts or forget how it goes back together.

Plenty of time, space, baggies and refreshments can be the key to success.

My $.02

-Ride On

[jaycojman43]

Thanks guys for the info, I will for sure take my time. Good idea on one thing at a time. I also find it hand to have the digital camera handy just incase I need to look back. Thanks again

[wingandaprayer]

A set of Japanese Industrial Standard screw drivers that actually fit our bikes are a good addition to your shop.

http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/sc...ducts.html