Alternator conversion

[neoracer]

you might try buying a 20 or 30 watt cfl bulb to replace the burned out(dropped) incandescent bulbs,they are more forgiving

the size of your crank pulley and the thickness is probably gonna give you some clearance problems when it comes time to adjust clearance on the fan

[blandaw]

Well, I got as far as changing timing belts and installing drive pulley. Glad that end is done. The altenator bracket #1 did not suit me, so on to #2 tomorow. Used measurments from another post and it was to short. The bottom alt bolt was centered right on intake and upper adj. hole was way to low (I thought anyway). Went with the bigger drive pulley because I wanted good charge at low r.p.m. Hope it dose not give me to much problems Here is what it looks like now. (lots of room ) By the way, the blue rtv you see was used just to help hold seal in place.


If this pulley set up don"t work out, it will not be the first time for plan #2.

[SIR tricky]

There is a distinct possibility the if you move the bottom of the rad out far enough to clear that pulley the front mudguard may interfere, not sure but....?

better to use a 3 rib from http://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/replac...pulley.asp

and bush it.

[neoracer]

Rick,i think you see the possible problem that he is about to have

tks for reposting the krc link,my old one doesn't work anymore,lol

[blandaw]

There is a distinct possibility the if you move the bottom of the rad out far enough to clear that pulley the front mudguard may interfere, not sure but....?

better to use a 3 rib from http://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/replac...pulley.asp

and bush it.

OK, thanks for the timely info. I fit the rad. in place and looks like it will have to be moved foward aprox. 1-1/4"/1-3/8". looks like plenty of room between fender. Did not think to measure from fender to rad. I will do that and post. What would you gess to be the "acceptable" range for this? Just don't want to go any farther and then have to redo it This is why I'm so glad I found this sight; Helpfull input!!

[blandaw]

There is a distinct possibility the if you move the bottom of the rad out far enough to clear that pulley the front mudguard may interfere, not sure but....?

better to use a 3 rib from http://www.krcpower.com/ecommerce/replac...pulley.asp

and bush it.

OK, thanks for the timely info. I fit the rad. in place and looks like it will have to be moved foward aprox. 1-1/4"/1-3/8". looks like plenty of room between fender. Did not think to measure from fender to rad. I will do that and post. What would you gess to be the "acceptable" range for this? Just don't want to go any farther and then have to redo it This is why I'm so glad I found this sight; Helpfull input!!

I just measured again. Think I was on a diferant page than you guys. I will have 3+ inches to fender, but I now realize you may be talking about the piece that conects the 2 lower fairings (mud guard). This may have been the lost sheep that decided to come home during reassembly.

---

This is how I chose to modify the fan for the radiator. I first cut off bottom left leg. I then chose to remove compleatly the shroud from the bottom right leg to the upper left leg for max room for belt and pulley.

Then I used longer bolts and nuts to adjust the angle of the motor rather than bend the bracket.

I adjusted fan so the bottom blade position was as close to the radiator as I could go and feel safe. I hooked up wires to my 12v. power supply and gave it a trial run to make shure everything cleared.

[neoracer]

while you have the rad out ya might want to have it rodded and checked,appears it has been leaking,but could just be "old age" lol

i used a 4" years ago instead of the 2 1/2" in poorboys kit,i had to actually cut back the tips of the fanblades a tad for clearance with the pulley

[desertrefugee]

Also, I'd be wary about kicking the bottom of that radiator out more than an inch. You might've measured 3 inches from the fender to the front of the radiator, but that was without compression. It might be closer than you think.

[blandaw]

Also, I'd be wary about kicking the bottom of that radiator out more than an inch. You might've measured 3 inches from the fender to the front of the radiator, but that was without compression. It might be closer than you think.

After carefull consideration and a little more reading, I am opting to go with a smaller drive pulley. Seams like the benafit of larger pulley is realy not justified by all the alteration involved. I am going to go with a 2-1/2". It will be "charging" just after you begin to roll anyway (befor 2000rpm). I think it will be fine, and LOTS less modification to body pannels. Thanks for all the input. I did have to make another alteration on the alt. though. Cut a small piece out of case to alow to fit further to center of bike with lower leg. was hitting the start lever from choke and not giving me much clearence. will post pic soon.

[blandaw]

The alternator was hitting the start plunger on the carb. so I took the dremel and cut a small piece out of the corner. This alowed me to gain over one inch of clearence with the lower fairing.

[neoracer]

lengthening that lower bracket by an inch probably would have gained you some clearance with the fairing too

[blandaw]

lengthening that lower bracket by an inch probably would have gained you some clearance with the fairing too

Top bracket is the same. It actually allowed me shorten the lower bracket (that's where the main clearance problem was) this gave me clearance for the bottom leg of alternator.(leg was up against fairing and probably would have had to cut, not Shure if plastic would have bent that sharp around leg.)

[neoracer]

when i lengthened the lower bracket it moved the top in enough for clearance of the lowers

[blandaw]

when i lengthened the lower bracket it moved the top in enough for clearance of the lowers

just curious, did you have the same problem with the start shaft on carb? My alt. may just be a litle differant, I also have pulley in as close to timing covers as posable. Just wonder if it is a design change on alternator, maybe a diferent supplyer, maybe just me

[sparky65]

A quick comment..I haven't been following this closely but when you go to bolt the guard back on the rad make sure you use the shortest bolts, they tend to get mixed in with the longer ones and any bolt that is a bit longer than the correct length will puncture the rad core. This has happened so many times now on these 1200s its a shame. It happened to me..I was lucky to find a good rad to replace it at the bike salvage.

BTW you won't know you've punctured it til there's a small drip of coolant catches the attention because the bolt seals the hole its made.

This is a heads up for any GL1200 owner who takes the rad guard off for whatever reason.