94k Mile "Check Up"?

[chrison600]

Hi all,

I'm finally getting around to my GL1200 project and I'm wondering what I should do to the engine. I'm not eager to do a full on rebuild immediately, but I at least need to make sure the thing is reliable and safe. At 94,000 miles and with a questionable maintenance history, what should I replace and what should I check? What should the compression be?

Chris

[old gold]

Assuming the engine currently runs:
1. If you have 160+ psi on each cylinder, leave the heads alone!
2. Replace timing belts.
3. Use commercial fuel injector cleaner.
4. Change fuel filter.
5. New spark plugs.
6. Change engine oil & filter.
7. Change air filter.
94,000 miles is just broke-in, so I wouoldn't be in a big hurry to open up the engine.

I would remove the rear wheel to: change the final drive lube, clean the splines and fingers and coat well with Moly-60, slide the driveshaft back and coat the front splines, u-joint, and output shaft with Moly-60.

[GWdan]

In addition to those parts, you may want to look at replacing all parts rubber such as spark plug boots/wires, radiator hoses, fuel lines and brake lines since looks can be deceiving and you sometimes can't tell if they are up to snuff until you start moving them around. Our bikes are alike in that "new" was 28 yrs ago...

This being winter (its -9F degrees here right now) and I am planning to replace the tires (going with Shinkos) and lube the drive shaft, come spring. I have changed the rear drive fluid previously, but I wonder if there is anything else to be done while I have the tire off. Honda Shop Manual only mentions the drive shaft and u-joint servicing... (and nothing to be done to the gear case if there are no troubles suspected) - is there anything else? BTW manual calls the lube as "Honda Moly 45 grease". Is that the same as Moly 60?

Thanks for your help.

[old gold]

In addition to those parts, you may want to look at replacing all parts rubber such as spark plug boots/wires, radiator hoses, fuel lines and brake lines since looks can be deceiving and you sometimes can't tell if they are up to snuff until you start moving them around. Our bikes are alike in that "new" was 28 yrs ago...

This being winter (its -9F degrees here right now) and I am planning to replace the tires (going with Shinkos) and lube the drive shaft, come spring. I have changed the rear drive fluid previously, but I wonder if there is anything else to be done while I have the tire off. Honda Shop Manual only mentions the drive shaft and u-joint servicing... (and nothing to be done to the gear case if there are no troubles suspected) - is there anything else? BTW manual calls the lube as "Honda Moly 45 grease". Is that the same as Moly 60?

Thanks for your help.

Take a look at http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-go...es-no.html to gain more info on the "Moly 45 vs Moly 60" subject. It comes down to "Use a good product on the splines and U-Joint if you want the bike to last."

Tom

[bs175dths]

In addition to those parts, you may want to look at replacing all parts rubber such as spark plug boots/wires, radiator hoses, fuel lines and brake lines since looks can be deceiving and you sometimes can't tell if they are up to snuff until you start moving them around. Our bikes are alike in that "new" was 28 yrs ago...

This being winter (its -9F degrees here right now) and I am planning to replace the tires (going with Shinkos) and lube the drive shaft, come spring. I have changed the rear drive fluid previously, but I wonder if there is anything else to be done while I have the tire off. Honda Shop Manual only mentions the drive shaft and u-joint servicing... (and nothing to be done to the gear case if there are no troubles suspected) - is there anything else? BTW manual calls the lube as "Honda Moly 45 grease". Is that the same as Moly 60?

Thanks for your help.

The ‘45’ and the ’60’ refers to the concentration on moly in the grease.
I am only on my second tube and bought from two different Honda Dealerships, each only sold the Moly 60.

When you do service with the moly so, take a look in the final drive, in the area where the splines slide into and clean out any old, dry and hard moly which may prevent the spline from seating as deep as it should.


-Ride On

---

In addition to what has already been covered, as mentioned, rubber WILL deteriate!
This will take some time, but you will be glad you did this now..... remove the carburetors (you will want to replace the intake manifold o ring gaskets) and replace all those little vacuum hoses under there!
Remove them one at a time so as not to get confused.
Have all the hose and clamps you need before you start.
I didn't reuse the old pinch clamps put there from the factory, nor did I replace them through Mother Honda.
I also didn't use those automotive hose clamps as I thought those would look ugly.
I used safety wire, making three rotations of the wire before twisting it closed.

The final product is neat and tidy with a very different look from automotive clamps.
In most cases they won't be noticed...... but I know they are under there!!

synchronize the carburetors too!

I just turned 145,000 and the bike is still yeilding a average of 42mpg and smile after smile after mile!

-Ride on

[joe turner]

If your bike has not been running the compression will be lower than 160 psi. After running a few hundred miles it will rise.

[bs175dths]

If your bike has not been running the compression will be lower than 160 psi. After running a few hundred miles it will rise.

.... but if it stays raised for more than 4 hours......

wait........

that is sumthin else........