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Racking my brain!!
If you can short the + & - connections on the solenoid and the starter turns, I would suggest the solenoid is at fault, the internal contacts not making contact.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#16 11-24-2013, 10:04 AM,
(11-24-2013, 08:54 AM)cwalters2002 Wrote:
(11-23-2013, 01:47 PM)neoracer Wrote: if you changed oil once and check level and now it was high again it can only be that a carb float is sticking open and gas is draining into the crankcase after filling up a cylinder and seeping down past the rings

this could also be the cause of your starter not working well because of hydrolocking

when you bypass the starter does it seem to turn over fine,any chance the starter switch needs some cleaning?

yes when I use a screwdriver to connect the positive connection on the solenoid to the output connection on the solenoid it turns over great and fires right up. However when I hit the start button I just get a loud click from the solenoid. Could this be the connection on the start button rather than the solenoid?

On the gas issue how hard of a fix is that? Sounds pretty complicated and might be a little outside my skill level (learning as I go here) I was planning on giving you a call sometime today what time would work best?

one issue at a time....
if you think a float is not closing, turn the gas off at the gas tank.
to check if gas is leaking into the oil, take a sample from the dip stick. is it thinned oil? Smell like gas? If so, the oil is contaminated and it is a good thing the motor did not start. The oil and filter need to be replaced.
If it doesn't smell of gas, then drain the oil and fill to proper level. It is probably contaminated though.
Starter: remove the spark plugs so the starter doesn't have to overcome compression. Put the off/run/off button in the off position.
Drain the float bowls of gas. There will be a small screw on the bottom, facing out, on each float bowl.
Now you can diagnose the starter problem without fear of the motor starting, or more fuel contaminating the engine oil.

Fully charged battery.
Cables are known good.
Have you tried by-passing the starter button with a momentary switch? An automotive remote starter works if you have one. How does the starter spin?
If not, I have heard some folks have used solenoids from Fords. It may be a cheap way to test the rest of the starter circuit. But it is only for testing, not permanent.
If the starter button by-pass and Ford solenoid cause the starter to spin as it should,
carefully open the right controls at handlebars (those philip head screws can be difficult. Use a proper fitted head in the screw before attempting to twist or you may round out the philip design) and clean the starter button contacts with either contact cleaner (Radio Shack), WD-40, fine sand paper, or an emery board the ladies use to do their nails. One or two passes is often sufficient. Blow (no spit), compressed air or a business card them clean of sand.
When happy with the cleaning, disconnect the remote start switch or momentary switch and use the starter button you just cleaned.
How did the starter spin?
If not good, then there is something else.
If it spins good, remove the Ford solenoid and use the Honda solenoid.
Try the starter button again.
How did the starter spin?
If good, put the plugs back in and try it again.

Let's get the starter problem figured out first, then tackle the leaking fuel into the oil problem, if that is the cause of the overflowing oil sump.

Good luck and let us know.
We ALL want to see the bike run again.

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
#17 11-26-2013, 12:21 AM,

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