"new" '84 Aspy, only runs with choke on?

[DC44]

Using all the great information offered here I removed, cleaned, and today re-installed the carbs on the Aspencade. Recall that all four vacuum pistons were "frozen-stuck" in place when I removed the carbs.

I got everything hooked back up and the engine started right up using the choke. As soon as it began running I turned the choke off. Engine sounded great and after an idle adjustment it idled smooth just over 1000 RPMs. But...I discovered a serious problem...there is fuel flowing out of the air vent tube which runs between #2 and #4 carbs. It's the plastic tube that is the top most on the carbs. It's listed as #12 in the Western Honda parts manual.

012 JOINT SET, AIR VENT
16042-MG9-004

   

http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_sectio...veh=132542

I'm including an attachment showing the tube with the vent.

I'm going to remove the carb assembly again of course but wanted to know if others have experienced this or have an idea of why this is happening. All 4 vacuum pistons were moving freely after being cleaned. This was NOT a problem we had before removing the carbs and cleaning them. (Read 1st post in thread for review of initial problem please)

It seems to me that something must be clogged. The vent tube?

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions. I really appreciate this forum and the people in it.

best,
DC

[bs175dths]

I would suggest it is either the float needle is not sealing when the float bowl is full, the float is not set properly, or both.
Check both carburetors even if you think you found the problem in the first one you opened.
I have seen as little as a piece of grass is enough to not allow the float valve to close when the float is full.

You are going to get very efficient with removing/installing the carburetors. (lol)

Keep us updated.

-Ride On

[DC44]

I would suggest it is either the float needle is not sealing when the float bowl is full, the float is not set properly, or both.

You are going to get very efficient with removing/installing the carburetors. (lol)

Keep us updated.

-Ride On

Thanks. I didn't touch the float needle or adjust the floats. I did clean the carbs and made sure the passages were open as best I could. Since I found that all four carb pistons were stuck in place I pretty much figured that was my problem so in order to not create new problems I left everything else alone, except for cleaning etc.

No time tonight to tear the dang thing apart again. It will be much faster than my first time. Truthfully I'm having a tiny nightmare recalling one member who said it took him 8 times with the carbs on/off before they were right. (was that you?) I'm helping my buddy out so we can ride together but this can't become a full time job!

I'll update when able,
best,
DC

[bs175dths]

I would suggest it is either the float needle is not sealing when the float bowl is full, the float is not set properly, or both.

You are going to get very efficient with removing/installing the carburetors. (lol)

Keep us updated.

-Ride On

Thanks. I didn't touch the float needle or adjust the floats. I did clean the carbs and made sure the passages were open as best I could. Since I found that all four carb pistons were stuck in place I pretty much figured that was my problem so in order to not create new problems I left everything else alone, except for cleaning etc.

No time tonight to tear the dang thing apart again. It will be much faster than my first time. Truthfully I'm having a tiny nightmare recalling one member who said it took him 8 times with the carbs on/off before they were right. (was that you?) I'm helping my buddy out so we can ride together but this can't become a full time job!

I'll update when able,
best,
DC

yep!
That was me.
8 times was the magic number for me..... I had had some carburetor experience with singles from the 60's and 70's and then very little with a GL1000. These GL1200's can't be THAT much different, right? Well. Eight times out and in and I've put 40,000 on her without a carburetor hic-up.
Other hic-ups, but what do you want from a 29 year-old bike with 140,000?
As time and $ permits, replacing the rubber parts as they fail is almost a full time job. I tore the u-joint boot aligning the drive shaft to the u-joint after installing a new rear tire. Now I need to replace that boot. Boots on the front fork lower legs need replacing, the rubber between faux tank halves is gone and not available, rear shock boots are missing from a pair of recently rebuilt (by me) Ebay OEM shocks Monroe SA 1997's or Ranch RS1952's are going to be used. The left, front caliper seals failed causing one of the pistons to not retract. Those RUBBER seals were replaced, I have the seals for the right side and will get seals for the rear soon.
It is a full time job keeping this 29 year-old in good, running form.
She still does well on our 320 mile/week commute yeilding an average of 40mpg and countless spm (smiles per mile).

Good luck and keep us updated.

-Ride On