PoorBoy Conversion - Completed

[bs175dths]

PoorBoy Conversion – Completed

First, I want to thank PoorBoy for his idea of adding the external alternator to an otherwise excellent motorcycle design.
Second, I searched for the proper place to add this entry but was unable to locate the proper location. So, if the ADMINS. feel there is a need to relocate this thread, please feel free to do so as I don’t want to start a new thread for an old thread.

Thanks goes out to both PoorBoy and the ADMINS.

And now my reason for this thread,

As part of the installation, the rectifier/regulator was removed (the bolts used elsewhere), and the stator was unplugged at the battery cage location.
I have put less than 100 miles on the bike since completing the installation of the external alternator, but I have noticed a couple of things:
the engine seems to be running with less bottom-end noise at idle
the idle was about 200 rpm (+/-) higher after the install than before the install, so I adjusted the idle down
the engine seems to be running smoother and with less ‘valve clatter’ – in a previous thread I voiced my concern about the engine ‘talking’ more than a Goldwing should and was looking into the possibility of increasing oil flow throughout the engine.

Has anyone else noticed similar characteristics after their installation?

As part of this investigation, engine temperature and fuel mileage will also be monitored. (I have over a year worth of mpg and price per gallon (California price per gallon, don’t ask- ) to refer back to.

Your input will also be valuable, so it will be appreciated.

My theory is, with the stator not being called upon for duty, it is no longer a drag on the rest of the engine.
Granted the stator does not have a direct connection to the engine, but vibration, engine rpm and engine noise have all been lowered since completing the installation.

Just being a Curious George….. yes, I just called myself a little, yellow Monkey!

Thanks folks!

Ride On.

[BigBro]

Just a thought, consistent load from the external alternator applied to a different point on the engine would change the vibration characteristics (talking) of that same engine.

While it is a small load the alternator drawing power out there on the front end of the crankshaft would provide a load/counterbalance for the stresses and strains that had been applied at the rear of the engine.

---

I was going to offer that I can give a comparison as I will complete my Poorboy upgrade in a couple of days, but with Carb Rebuild, Waterpump replacement, Sloppy timing belts replaced (all of which contributed to noisy operation) and now the Poorboy upgrade, I will have put so many changes into the system it would be hard to tell what was what and now is different.

I know it has been sounding better and smoother at each step along the way here.

Just haven't had it out of the garage because of the weather and it being naked. Did I mention completely cleaning and dieletric greasing every connector I find too.

Fortunately I haven't found any PO wiring nightmares...
Didn't mean to hijack your thread.

[bs175dths]

Good thought!

However, I wouldn't think the extra torque placed on the front of the crankshaft, due to the extra pulley placed no more than 30mm away from the left timing belt pulley, would be enough additional load on the crankshaft bearings to cause the valve train or the crankshaft to change their orbital direction.

If it can and did, my engine is headed for detenation!

The proof will be in the forthcoming (s)miles.

-Ride On

---

..... how many of you thought High School geometry and physics would never be useful?

[Golden Highway]

One thing you did was eliminate the low charging voltage. When the voltage is low the motor doesn't run correctly causing it to run ruff, hesitate, miss and so on. After you live with on of these bikes long enough you soon learn when it doesn't feel well. You know when it is voltage and when it is has gas problems. You fixed the problem so now it is getting the correct voltage so it runs better.

[Roleketu]

Eliminating the stator system does help our Wings run better. I believe the coils are powered directly from the stator. So if the voltage output from the stator is fluctuating, it then sends a variable voltage to the coils and eventually to the spark plugs. A couple years ago I installed from Electrical Connection a harness adapter that rewires the power to the coils through a relay and direct battery connection. This provides a constant 12 volt power to the coils. I had installed the harness prior to doing my PoorBoy conversion and contacted Electrical Connection about the stator portion of their harness. I believe he has since produced a harness for the coils without the stator portion.

[wingandaprayer]

I am puttering away as time permits installing a Poorboy conversion as well. The comments about low voltage and ignition performance are interesting. I'll report back once I finish the conversion, but before I do any other maintenance on the list. Our wing has featured a slightly "stumbling" idle for a while... a nice synchronizing of the carbs and it pulls like a champ, but the idle never gets silky smooth, and the most interesting thing is the idle roughness is not consistent...

[bs175dths]

Well, here are some results from the first week of riding since installing the external alternator….
-No drips or leaking of coolant, vibration, funny noises – I wouldn’t ride if it did
-The engine is running smoother and there is less ‘talking’. She sounds more like a Goldwing of 28 years and 135,000 miles should sound…. smooth and quiet (except for some valve talking)
-MPG seems to be up slightly and time will confirm or deny that
-It is hard to tell if she is running cooler, hotter or the same as the temperature has been on the cool side (cool for So.Cal. )
-There a bit of vibration on throttle down and that comes from the belt vibrating, but no other vibration at throttle up or constant throttle
-My voltmeter (tapped in at the ACC. on the fuse box and has a -.5V difference than the battery) shows just under 12.0V with the key on, engine off, jumps to 13.5V on a cold engine, enricher on then less than a meter needles width less than 13.0V once at standard operating temperature.
-Highway speeds, the meter is dead on 13.0V (don’t forget to add the 0.5V difference)
-I haven’t used the Battery Tender all week and it used to be a nightly routine

She is still slated to have the body work formed as the radiator does move forward and I opted NOT to cut off the rear, lower mounting lug of the alternator which gives the alternator a more rigid mount, causing less lateral movement on throttle up. I do have about ¾” more room to move the bottom of the alternator toward the engine which will be done (requiring a shorter belt)
Also slated is to…..
-run the voltmeter directly from the battery and through a fused relay
-fuse and relay the coils
-buy another radiator hose and cut this one to a better shape

Bottom line is she is back on the road and seems to be doing just fine!

Again, I want to thank PoorBoy for sharing his idea(s) and those here at this and other forums whose only goal is to help folks like me, keep bikes like these, on the road and rollin’ past the mileage markers…….

A BIG THANK-YOU TO ALL!! (applause) (applause) (applause)

[BigBro]

Hey bs175dths,

A couple of questions didn't find the answers in your posts.

What model wing is this on?

What alternator are you using?

Could you craft up a wiring diagram? Where your Alternator output is wired.
Where are you pulling the ign terminal from?

Thanks in advance

[bs175dths]

What model Wing is this on? 1984 Interstate (no electronics whatsoever – except a factory clock I added)
What alternator am I using? A Geo, Metro alternator with a V-groove pulley (I didn’t measure the diameter of the pulley)
Alternator output wire goes from the stub on the back of the alternator through a 50amp circuit breaker using 8 gauge wire to the battery.
I bought two sizes of copper cable end eyelets. One size was for the battery terminal and alternator lug, and the smaller eyelet was for the circuit breaker.
All four cable ends were crimped and soldered.
The distance between the circuit breaker and the positive battery post was too short for a straight line so a made the cable long enough to put a small loop in the cable.
Between the cable routing from the alternator, and the loop at the battery, the circuit breaker stays in its plastic corner. However, a fellow rider suggested Velcro to hold it more firmly.
And no, there is no interference between the circuit breaker or cable loop and the side cover.
The ignition terminal is getting power from the + side of the ACC. terminal of the fuse box, on top of the air cleaner lid, under the shelter.

I need to take some pictures for my own sake. Ideally, pictures should have been taken during fabrication/assembling, but I just didn’t have the patience… I wanted to ride again.

-Ride On

[BigBro]

Thanks that helps a lot.
I was concerned about using the acc terminal as that looks to be energized if I was just sitting listening to the radio.

Otherwise everything sounds similar to my plans on my 1984 Interstate.
Picked up a Maxi 50A fuseholder last night. supposed to be Waterproof ha. probably water resistant.

Using a Geo Metro Alternator with a 3 groove serpentine belt pulley.