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Question on retorquing swingarm pivot bolts
I have a weave going on with my newly acquired GL1200I. I'm pretty sure it's related to the movement I can see in the swingarm: with the bike on the center stand I can move the wheel left to right about 1/8".

The bike has about 20k on it, and I'm not thinking (hoping?) the bearings aren't worn.

Long story short: I want to retorque the swingarm pivot bolts. The big question is, do I need to remove the rear wheel in order to do this? IOW will the weight of the wheel and/or the tension from the suspension keep me from doing the adjustment?

On one hand I could do the entire teardown and replace the bearings.... on the other I could retorque the pivot bolts and be on my way.

thx
Jeff
Cañon City CO

Former bikes: several GL1100s, a couple of GL1200s, one GL1500, one GL1800, Yamaha V-Star 1100, Valkyrie Interstate, Yamaha xs650 Special, Suzuki Titan 500
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#1 01-25-2013, 08:41 AM,
Jeff, I'd go ahead and pull the rear wheel and check/change out those wheel bearings just to be sure. The best I remember there was a problem with the rear bearings "wallowing" out the bearing seat and that might be what's happening with yours....

I think there was a service bulletin on this but I'm not sure....
1985 Limited Edition
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#2 01-25-2013, 08:27 PM,
I think the service bulletin was on the 84, if I remember they modified the rear wheel in 85. You can torque the swing arm without taking the rear wheel off, you have to pull the caps off the each side of the swing arm where it hinges on the frame, there you can see where the adjustments bolts are. There is a large crown nut that has to be loosened first on both sides before you can torque the adjusters. I made a socket for this, here is a pic

[Image: 100_2085_zps207d6d40.jpg]
Ride safe have fun and enjoy. Lane
1985 Aspencade
2002 Vulcan
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#3 01-25-2013, 08:53 PM,
So my tools that have that special castle nut kind of socket were in Louisiana.... I retrieved them when I went back there this last week.

But it's not so easy! I removed the castle nut, but it took the pivot pin with it. Now I've got to work through removing the castle nut from the pivot pin w/o messing up the pivot pin. Something like some heat, the castle nut socket and a long hex wrench.

Anyway.... just for grins on the right side I set my torque wrench to 72ft/lbs as per the book. It clicked w/o moving the pivot pin. I set it to 80 and it still clicked w/o moving the pin. That bad boy was really tight in there.

I'm going to give it the cheap route and see if it helps -- but I have a feeling I'll have to tear it down and replace those bearings.
Jeff
Cañon City CO

Former bikes: several GL1100s, a couple of GL1200s, one GL1500, one GL1800, Yamaha V-Star 1100, Valkyrie Interstate, Yamaha xs650 Special, Suzuki Titan 500
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#4 02-05-2013, 05:58 PM,
Here's an update, hope it helps someone

I've replaced front and rear bearings with All balls and retorqued the swingarm pivots and lock nut as per the manual. I ordered a new locknut for the left side pivot bolt and it worked well -- the reads on the original one were messed up.

FYI I don't have the issue with the loose or spinning rear wheel bearings, the bearings pressed in nice and tightly. As per the previous post that issue was resolved before 1986 (thanks bluewing!).

Unfortunately I still have the weave.

Epiphany -- maybe it's the front end! I found this article that describes what I'm experiencing to a T:

http://archives.wingworldmag.com/apr2002...rings.html

With the front wheel off the ground the front wheel doesn't seem to want to move fore and aft as per the manual. However when rotating the handlebars side to side they seem very free w/in about 5 degrees left and right of center and then seem to rotate a little less freely beyond that.

Further inspection shows that the cap covering the steering stem -- the one with the wires going through for the signal cancelling unit -- is loose. And there is no locktab on top of the locknut. Additionally the lock nut shows a lot of stress/gnarled metal on the indentations where the special tool tabs fit. Some enterprising PO didn't have the right tool or technique from the looks of it. 14 ft lbs does not gnarl metal!! Hopefully I can loosen and tighten this.

Tomorrow I plan to do the bearing adjustment as per the book and see if that fixes the problem. If not I plan to order bearings, new lock nut and new lock nut tab and take the plunge.

More to follow!
Jeff
Cañon City CO

Former bikes: several GL1100s, a couple of GL1200s, one GL1500, one GL1800, Yamaha V-Star 1100, Valkyrie Interstate, Yamaha xs650 Special, Suzuki Titan 500
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#5 03-02-2013, 10:00 PM,
It sounds like someone has been tampering with the head bearings, if those things are loose or missing.

Usually a a weaving is caused by over tight bearings or a groove in the bearing race.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#6 03-03-2013, 07:30 AM,
(03-03-2013, 07:30 AM)tricky Wrote: It sounds like someone has been tampering with the head bearings, if those things are loose or missing.

Usually a a weaving is caused by over tight bearings or a groove in the bearing race.

Right again, Tricky! Or at least it looks so for now.

I tore down the front end to get to the steering bearings and they were, indeed, worn. I couldn't feel the indentations but I could see them on top and bottom races. I have new All Balls bearings and seals in place and have torqued them to spec according to the manual pages Tricky posted at one point in similar threads. I used an electronic fish scale that I picked up from Walmart. As far as I can see I have about 1 lb 5 oz at the forks.

While in there I took the plunge and ordered Progressive springs and new seals for the front forks and had them installed by Fremont Motorsports in Florence CO. I'm not a fan of flying springs.

I'm also installing new T070 Gates belts.... but I pulled off the same so somebody's been here before me. Along those lines, that same somebody had a heavy hand as evidenced by some gnarled up nuts and bolts.

I'm waiting on new O-rings and keepers for the top of the front forks. And a screw for the left front intake where you plug in for balancing carbs. The P.O. put a cruise control in there, but it was missing some important parts like the control switch and the attachment to the throttle, so it's in the old part bin. One of the hoses went to that point on the intake and of course there is no screw there hence the hang time.

Wish me luck on putting this thing back together! Hopefully I'll be riding in a week or two, about the time spring hits southern Colorado.
Jeff
Cañon City CO

Former bikes: several GL1100s, a couple of GL1200s, one GL1500, one GL1800, Yamaha V-Star 1100, Valkyrie Interstate, Yamaha xs650 Special, Suzuki Titan 500
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#7 03-20-2013, 08:55 PM,
Albeit not the only cause for two wheeled vehicles weaving, tire condition and pressure among other things can add to the problem.

While riding along a road, although it is happening subconsciously, we are constantly making minute corrections to maintain a seemingly straight track on our passage. When the head bearings become worn, sometimes a tiny groove appears in the bearing race, this causes the rider to make a larger correction in the opposite direction as the bearing drops into the groove, then have to make a correction once again in the opposite direction.

When it happened to me I would have sworn that the rear wheel was loose, I stopped several times to inspect the rear wheel. The culprit after inspection was the worn head bearing race.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#8 03-21-2013, 06:22 AM,


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