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Muffler packing?
I need to replace the graphite packing between the headers and the cross over. My question is can I do it without having to pull the rear tire?
The light at the end of the tunnel is usually the headlamp of the oncoming train.

[Image: Bike003.jpg]
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#1 06-29-2012, 09:52 AM,
No rear tire removal required to remove an exhaust header.
Loosen the hanger bolts at the muffler, but don’t remove them.
Remove the 8 header nuts and pull the headers away from the heads. The system will pivot at the loose muffler hangers giving enough room to allow removing the affected header out of the defective gasket at the cross over.
You may consider replacing the crush gasket between the header and the head.
Work the header nuts slowly as they may be rusty.

If you want to drop the system, I would suggest the procedure mentioned above, all performed on the center stand.
Then switch from center to side stand to remove the two already loose muffler hanger bolts.
Leaving the bike on the center stand while dropping the system make it difficult to get it off because the cross over comes in contact with the center stand as it comes off the bike.
The side stand allows the system to come down easy and it can then be rotated out from under the bike.

Good luck.
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#2 06-29-2012, 12:03 PM,
So I have to drop the headers also? I was hoping I could just pull the muffler without dropping the headers or rear tire. I had to order the packing so I guess I need to order the crush gaskets for the headers.
The light at the end of the tunnel is usually the headlamp of the oncoming train.

[Image: Bike003.jpg]
Reply
#3 06-29-2012, 08:54 PM,
I found it easier to remove the header than to try to align both headers and shoving the muffler back on.
By loosening the muffler hanger bolts and unbolting the headers, you can grab the header and use a twisting motion to remove the header from the muffler.
A back and forth rotation while pulling away from the muffler glides the header pipe out of the muffler.
Similarily, the twisting and pushing motion will allow getting the header pipe to fit in the muffler.
In both removal and installation, the weight of the bike is assisting. Just don't pull the bike off the center stand and onto you!

Then it is just a matter of rotating and pulling (or pushing) to get the header to align with the head.
Loosely attach one header to the head until the other header is aligned with the other head.
Tighten the header nuts a little at a time so the header seats nice and evenly in the head ports.
The last fasteners to tighten will be the header/muffler joint and then the muffler hangers.

Fire her up and while she is still cold, feel for exhaust leaks.

~O)
btw - no rear tire removal required (unless you want to service the splines)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#4 07-03-2012, 09:34 AM,
Thanks for the input, that's what I decided to do, just drop the whole exhaust and while I've got it out I'm gonna rebuild the starter which has been cranking slow. Just waiting on the parts now. :d
The light at the end of the tunnel is usually the headlamp of the oncoming train.

[Image: Bike003.jpg]
Reply
#5 07-03-2012, 09:50 PM,
I did my mufflers this year and as was mentioned it is much easier to drop the headers and then replace the packing and install the headers back on one at a time.
Johan
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#6 07-04-2012, 12:39 AM,
90Blazer Wrote:Thanks for the input, that's what I decided to do, just drop the whole exhaust and while I've got it out I'm gonna rebuild the starter which has been cranking slow. Just waiting on the parts now. :d


Just a note of caution; I did both my 1200 & 1500, the 1500 I had to remove the entire exhaust ( I cleaned & painted the exhaust parts) to replace the shift peddle seal. Look for previous cooper seals stuck up in the engine block exhaust port! I found two sets in the 1500!! Confusedhock: Also, the torque value is only 7 ft. lbs on the header nuts!! It's very easy to over tighten those nuts, completely crushing the seals.. [-X
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#7 07-04-2012, 10:46 AM,
I had read about people finding multiple crush gaskets on the exhaust, but I was lucky only 1 on mine lol. What I want to know is how I'm supposed to torque these when I can only get box wrench on some of the nuts? Any ideas on how to do that? 7 ft lbs is not alot, I was thinking just snug them up and maybe a 1/4 turn more.
The light at the end of the tunnel is usually the headlamp of the oncoming train.

[Image: Bike003.jpg]
Reply
#8 07-04-2012, 05:16 PM,
90Blazer Wrote:Thanks for the input, that's what I decided to do, just drop the whole exhaust and while I've got it out I'm gonna rebuild the starter which has been cranking slow. Just waiting on the parts now. :d
I am assuming (I know, I know) it is cranking slow when hot?
When I experienced the same problem, I found a couple of issues:
1. my battery was not fully charged/recharging
2. when I disassembled the nose of the starter, I found it nearly completely void of grease.

Finding and fixing the recharging problem did cure my 'slow turning starter only when hot' situation.
My work-around for a slow spinning starter when the engine is hot was to open the throttle all the way, then hit the starter button and it would start the engine easily.
Again, not the solution, but a work-around until getting it fixed.
Once I was able to get into the starter (when I had leaking head gaskets) I did all the recommended service, except for the added ground.
Bench tested and not only did it spin much faster, it was noticably quieter.

BTW, snug on the exhaust studs will work as long as there is no leakage. I replaced my aged/factory nuts (with the built-in washer) for plain nuts and a lock washer. No problems to report.

~O)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#9 07-05-2012, 08:13 AM,
It was cranking slow when cold or hot. Thought at first, like you, it might be the battery. Had it load tested and the battery was fine. Then checked all grounds and the hot wire to the starter, all clean and good. I have the starter out now, just waiting on the rebuild kit to come in. The was plenty of grease in it, but was old and crusty but still good. The brushes are shot though, one was binding and the other had a wire that had just fallen out of the carbon on the brush. I'm pretty sure that's the problem.
The light at the end of the tunnel is usually the headlamp of the oncoming train.

[Image: Bike003.jpg]
Reply
#10 07-05-2012, 07:09 PM,
:YMAPPLAUSE:
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#11 07-06-2012, 03:18 PM,
Well, got the starter rebuilt and all the exhaust gaskets in, it starts so much easier. It spins just like a new starter and is so much quieter. Thanks for all the help Smile
The light at the end of the tunnel is usually the headlamp of the oncoming train.

[Image: Bike003.jpg]
Reply
#12 07-08-2012, 10:02 AM,
Glad you got it squared away.
BTW - it may not be a train, it could be a cliff!!

~O)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#13 07-09-2012, 09:43 AM,
90Blazer, where did you find the graphite exhaust packing have searched but found nothing .
exhaust packing?
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#14 06-16-2013, 04:53 PM,
I have bought them off of ebay because they were less than the stealership, and it looks like the one I usually buy from "georgfix" is out of them right now but I found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-XL500-XL600-GL...d4&vxp=mtr

They are still available from mother honda if you still need them.
The light at the end of the tunnel is usually the headlamp of the oncoming train.

[Image: Bike003.jpg]
Reply
#15 06-17-2013, 06:23 AM,


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