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Overheating without fairing lowers update
On our 1984 Interstate we're still running without fairing lowers installed with no overheating during cool weather (Augusta, Ga.) When the outside temps hit about 95 degrees it started running real hot at interstate speeds, needle touching the red zone. Checked water pump, it was tight and pumping. Replaced thermostat because it wasn't opening fully, maybe about 3mm, radiator clean inside and out. It still ran hot. Cooling fan working normal. I had sheetmetal shop bend up some stainless steel air scoops similar to our 1980 GL1100 Standard. Last year's scoops cracked from vibrations. This year's are much thicker. Last Sunday went to Atlanta on I-20 with outside temperature about 86 degrees, cruising at 70 with some runs up to 85 mph and temperature gauge stayed in the normal range. Waiting to make a run when the temperatures hit high 90's to make sure. So far it looks like the air scoops are solving my problem. It's still hard to believe that the original fairing lowers grab that much air. Riding and learning.
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#1 06-19-2012, 04:02 PM,
For what reason are the fairing lowers not installed?
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#2 06-19-2012, 06:22 PM,
The fairing is designed to catch and force enough air around the engine to properly cool it, to run without the lower fairing you would be allowing air to escape from its cooling path causing the overheating.
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for Bad Hunter

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#3 06-19-2012, 11:14 PM,
Sorry, forgot to add. The fairing lowers came off when I did the Poor Boy's alternator conversion and found the right inner cowl broken and have not replaced it yet.
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#4 06-20-2012, 05:17 AM,
If you have all the parts to the inner cowl you can use the black ABS cement from Lowes (US) to glue them back together save buying one from fleabay
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#5 06-20-2012, 06:13 AM,
wilmas2cool Wrote:On our 1984 Interstate we're still running without fairing lowers installed with no overheating during cool weather (Augusta, Ga.) When the outside temps hit about 95 degrees it started running real hot at interstate speeds, needle touching the red zone. Checked water pump, it was tight and pumping. Replaced thermostat because it wasn't opening fully, maybe about 3mm, radiator clean inside and out. It still ran hot. Cooling fan working normal. I had sheetmetal shop bend up some stainless steel air scoops similar to our 1980 GL1100 Standard. Last year's scoops cracked from vibrations. This year's are much thicker. Last Sunday went to Atlanta on I-20 with outside temperature about 86 degrees, cruising at 70 with some runs up to 85 mph and temperature gauge stayed in the normal range. Waiting to make a run when the temperatures hit high 90's to make sure. So far it looks like the air scoops are solving my problem. It's still hard to believe that the original fairing lowers grab that much air. Riding and learning.

I have been commuting for almost two years now and am learning what is normal and what is not. (for my bike)
I have installed a light in parallel with the cooling fan to tell me when the cooling fan is running. I have put the indicator light on much the same plain as the water temp. gauge so I can learn at what temp. the fan comes on.
In this way, if the water temp. gets beyond the point of the fan turning on, I know there is something wrong with the cooling system.

Recently I determined I had some debris partially blocking the primary jet in carb. number 4.
Determining this required the removal of the lower fairings which I left off the bike for the next two days of commuting.
As I rode to work that first morning, just after exiting the freeway, the cooling fan indicator light came on, stayed on for a few minutes then turned off. Yes, indeed, the water temp. had risen.
The commute home showed the same results, only this time, cycled on twice (after all, it was warmer in the afternoon than in the morning.)
The following day showed the same, EXACT results.
That evening I reassembled the lower fairings and the chrome covering the high tension leads and spark plug boots.
The following morning, the water temp. had returned to the same level as before I had removed the fairing lowers.
The next day showed the same, normal water temp.
So Yes! The fairing lowers (and I would think the chrome covers to some degree) have an important role to play in the area of circulating air around the motor as part of the overall cooling design.

I would think, much like the old air-cooled VWs of years ago!

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#6 06-21-2012, 10:13 AM,
Thanks "bs175dths" for your info. Seems like that big fat tire,fender, and forks on our 1984"s blocks a little more air than I experienced on the 1980 models. I"ll probably mend and reinstall the fairing lowers. Lately I get a lot of questions wherever I stop about the alternator hanging out there. Trying to drum up some more business for "POORBOY".
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#7 06-21-2012, 11:45 AM,
Do you have an advertising contract with PoorBoy? Maybe you should look into it.
(did the cost of my, and only my kit just double??)

~O)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#8 06-21-2012, 03:29 PM,
I can use all the sales I can get. LOL I'm in the hosiptal & looks like I may be here 3 more weeks. Poorboy
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#9 06-22-2012, 09:47 AM,
I will add you to the others on my list of daily intentions.
Take care PoorBoy.

~O)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#10 06-22-2012, 01:25 PM,
Poorboy Wrote:I can use all the sales I can get. LOL I'm in the hosiptal & looks like I may be here 3 more weeks. Poorboy


Jees don't stay there too long, I dont think they will allow you room for your lathe or welder.

Get well soon
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#11 06-22-2012, 05:08 PM,
Get well Poorboy :YMHUG:


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#12 06-22-2012, 08:31 PM,


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