Rear Brake sticking
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Ok 84 Interstate rear caliper begins sticking after 50 miles or so and I have to open the blessed screw to release the pressure. Once I do I can make another 50 miles or so before it sticks again. Any body have any idea what's causing this particularly irritating issue?
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#1
02-16-2012, 03:55 PM,
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possibly the caliper is sticking on the slide bolts, remove them, clean them and lube with never seize.
failing that if the fluid hasnt been changed in a while it could be a master cylinder problem, preventing the fluid from returning. Being the back brake I would try the former first The caliper should feel loose when you grip it and try to move it sideways.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.
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#2
02-16-2012, 05:21 PM,
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Much the same as what I was thinking, so I suppose I'll pull the bag off and give that a go in the morning, although I think I may change the Brake fluid as well, since I just bought this machine and have no idea if, or when, the fluid was changed. Thanks.
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#3
02-16-2012, 09:15 PM,
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Sounds like the brake fluid return hole is blocked in the master cylinder. You should be able to use a small gauge wire to clean it out.
Paul
CE1 Navy Seabees/RET 1981 to 2002 ASE Mechanic |
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#4
02-16-2012, 11:19 PM,
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My rear brake had a similar problem. The cause turned out to be build-up in the grooves for the caliper piston seals. It wasn't much, but any amount can create enough additional pressure that the piston will not return to a non-engaged position. My bike was still rideable, but there was constant friction.
Charlie
1992 GL1500 SE |
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#5
02-16-2012, 11:22 PM,
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As mentioned by others
There should be a small bleed hole in the master cylinder body that allows the fluid to expand/return as it heats up from brake use that could be partially blocked - as the fluid warms the expansion causes the brakes to apply themselves and drag - this condition might (should) appear "by itself" as the fluid warms during a ride - and if the calipers are working properly should show up as dragging both the front and rear brake that are linked together - the other front should be cooler... - or a caliper piston & bore assy that is hanging up due to corrosion, damaged piston seal or the like - the dragging condition should appear when you apply the brakes - this should show up as the rear brake "running hot" by itself... |
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#6
02-17-2012, 04:59 AM,
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bleed the system until no air and fresh fluid comes out the bleeder
clean and lube the caliper sliders clean and lube the pins which hold the brake pads while the pads are out, pump the brakes until the piston comes out enough for you to inspect for road crud build up make sure the brake pedal is adjusted to the proper height old fluid and/or air is not good for the system the caliper will not slide freely if the sliders are dirty or rusty brake pads will not slide smoothly with rust or road crud build up on pins the piston will not allow the pads to retract if the piston has road crud built up if the pedal adjustment is too tight, it will slowly apply the brake If none of these solve the problem you are having, the master may require a rebuild. good luck -Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#7
02-23-2012, 10:49 PM,
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bs175dths Wrote:If none of these solve the problem you are having, the master may require a rebuild.If you decide to rebuild the master cylinder, here is a good tech article on the rebuild process. It is for the 1100 but is very similar to the 1200. It also shows the hole in the master that tends to clog up and how to clean it out. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=57">http://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewt ... ?f=11&t=57</a><!-- m -->
Paul
CE1 Navy Seabees/RET 1981 to 2002 ASE Mechanic |
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#8
02-24-2012, 10:13 AM,
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