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Rear Master Cylinder Boot - how do you fit it?
This is another of my stupid questions but I can't figure it out.

I am rebuilding my rear brake master cylinder and am awaiting the rebuild kit.

Whilst I wait I've painted the master cylinder and I am going to clean up the brake rod etc. Having taken it apart today I am puzzled by one thing. How do I fit the boot that keeps dirt from going into the master cylinder. In this picture the boot is item number 8.


The assembly sequence is that the brake rod (part 14) is inserted into the master cylinder. The washer on the rod is pushed into the master cylinder end and the circlip (part 22) fits atop the washer in a groove. The rubber boot then covers the circlip etc.

This picture shows my assembled brake rod which doesn't have the boot (that's why i am rebuilding it!!!!)


This picture shows the rod broken down

and this picture shows a larger view of the end of the rod


My question is how is the boot fitted - it seems impossible that it can be fitted over the washer that goes into the master cylinder so the only explanation left is that it has to be fitted from the opposite end of the rod and kinda stretched over the threaded portion of the rod.

I hope I don't sound like I am losing my mind - but I am.

Attached Files
.jpg   brakefiche (Small).JPG (Size: 51.47 KB / Downloads: 316)
.jpg   P1020959 (Small).JPG (Size: 28.51 KB / Downloads: 320)
.jpg   P1020964 (Small).JPG (Size: 36.97 KB / Downloads: 314)
.jpg   P1020963 (Small).JPG (Size: 36.05 KB / Downloads: 313)
#1 01-26-2012, 07:12 AM,
I believe that rod will break down further. In your last pic, the close up, I seem to remember the steel rod will pull off the piston of the master. The washer was installed somehow. It didn't grow there.
85 GL1200I
#2 01-26-2012, 08:35 PM,
machinerepair is right. The rod is designed to slide back and forth. Try soaking the rod in some PB Blaster or even some brake fluid overnight or a couple of days. You might need to clamp the rod to try and twist the rod free. Just be sure to protect the rod from damage and don't force it. You don't want to break it. You might even try a propane torch to heat it up. Heat the fitting, not the rod. I work on car brakes a lot and I've had to use a torch to heat things up to persuade them to move. Just take your time and be careful with it. Good luck and let us know if you get it fixed.
CE1 Navy Seabees/RET
1981 to 2002
ASE Mechanic
#3 01-26-2012, 10:16 PM,

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