Alternator hitting tps?

[ChuckV309]

I have the poorboy conversion and I am trying to get it all mounted on my SEi. The problem I am having is that one of the case bolts is hitting the TPS. I have spaced it out about 1/4" more than the original spacer, but I still only get about 1/4" of alternator belt adjustment before it hits the TPS. Do you think it would be OK to remove that one case bolt? There are 3 others. I also have the 32.250" OC belt and it won't even go on. What length should I try?

Thanks,
Chuck

[Guest]

The belt should be 32.625"

[admin]

The longer belt will give you more clearance but if necessary just grind a bit of the aluminum alternator case away to make clearance, but, do your best to keep grinding dust out of the alternator because that dust could cause problems inside. Also, try raising the lower mount bracket and see if that helps a bit.

[ChuckV309]

I've ground all around the bolt. The problem is the head of the bolt. I will get a longer belt, but that won't change the bolt hitting the TPS. It hits through most of the swing on the bracket.

[clancyp]

can you snap a pic of the problem area maybe we can spot something ?

[admin]

I've ground all around the bolt. The problem is the head of the bolt. I will get a longer belt, but that won't change the bolt hitting the TPS. It hits through most of the swing on the bracket.

Exactly what bolt is hitting the TPS? If it's the alternator case bolt just shorten the bolt then grind, machine or cut away the case enough to allow clearance with the bolt in place.

[ChuckV309]

It is the head of one of the case bolts, not the end. The head is about 1/8" tall, so there is not a lot of room to grind on it. The only choice would be to remove it and grind down where the head tightens against to have the bolt recessed some more. I will try to get some pics up in an hour or so.

[admin]

If you cannot grind the case to lower the screw just modify the case by countersinking the bolt hole and use a countersunk flathead screw to gain the clearance you need.

[ChuckV309]

Here is a picture of how it is hitting the TPS (Black round rubber cap), and a picture if the bolt and area already ground. I think I will try to grind down the area the bolt tightens against and switch to a countersunk screw.[attachment=0]

[admin]

The last injected 1200 I did the conversion on was close to the TPS but not as close as your picture. I'm wondering if you should put a 1/8" thick washer behind the crank pulley and then use washers to space forward the alternator? Is there room to do so on your bike? Also, is the pic with the belt on and tight. With the longer belt you may not need to push the alternator in so far to the inside.

[ChuckV309]

That is spaced almost 1/4" ahead already. Don't have the belt on there with the picture, but the alt. is at about the last 1/3 of the adjustment travel.

[admin]

Have you tried fitting the fairing lower on to determine how much clearance you have? You might find that there is enough clearance to use a much longer belt and get the alternator clear of the TPS completely. If you're using a 3 groove micro v belt you don't need much travel at all for proper tension, more is needed with a standard v belt. And don't forget, you do not want a lot of tension on the belt otherwise you could wipe out the front main bearing.

[ChuckV309]

I milled the bolt mounting area and the head of the bolt some, removed the rear sheetmetal cover, and I also spaced down the upper mounting bracket about 1/8". Now I have about the last 1/2 of the adjustment travel :YMAPPLAUSE:

As far as the lower cowl, I already have to grind down some of the front verticle inlet vent to clear the pully, and remove the inner duct to the vent by your leg.

Chuck

[admin]

Sounds like you're doing OK. 1/2" of travel is enough if the belt length is precise. When you go to install the belt you will most likely need to remove the upper alternator bolt and really loosen the lower bolt a lot or even remove it completely so you can get the belt over the pulley. Once in place and correctly adjusted that belt won't need to be touched again for a long time unless you get the initial adjustment wrong and need to readjust it. In the case that the 3 groove belt length is off by just a bit remember that you can also buy a 4 groove belt that is the exact length you need (3 groove is only available in limited lengths and the 4 groove option allows for precise fitting because it offers the in between sizes that the 3 groove belt does not.) All you need to do with the 4 groove belt is hang it on a doorknob, pull it tight and carefully cut the unwanted groove out with a knife. This is not hard to do at all.