GL1200 Sei Stalling, Stuttering

[ghostrider52005]

Ok will toss this in it may help. In my friends shop we were working on a Suzuki intruder. It acted just as you describe. I would go thru the fuel system make sure nothing was amiss. fire the thing up and run fine. My friend who weighs about 80 lbs less than me could ride it all day and no problem. Myself or the owner a guy about my size get on it and it would run maybe four min maybe a min or maybe 20 minutes then do just what you describe.
Long story short did a heat test on the wires to the cdi box etc. Heat test is heat the insulation enough to soften it a bit but not burn it or hurt it and pull a bit on the wire. If the wire is broken inside but still making intermitant connection the insulation will streatch revealing the inner break in the wire.
In our case one wire was broken but still making contact inside the insulation with my buddy the light rider or just sitting with nobody on it. BUT since the wire loom ran under the seat pan when the owner or I rode it once the bike heated up a bit and the wire insulation did it would let the actual wire inside seperate enough to break contact and foul plugs, stall sputter, as if it were a fuel delivery problem. We spliced the bad spot and bike still runs like a raped ape a year later.
Takes a little time to do each wire but very possible that could be your problem

[Chuckster]

Thanks, will pass it over to my mech and see where we should start on this. The only damn thing I can't shake, is this all started after introducing the Sea Foam and hi-test Chevron fuel to the system. Yet system is not plugged, but instead is burning rich. Did all the recommended things and still the bike fouls plugs within minutes of riding. Go figure eh.

[Feetup]

Just a quick question. You say it is fouling plugs. Generally that is referring to oil contamination, or wet with fuel/oil, causing the plug to short circuit and not spark. I have a feeling you are referring to soot buildup from a very over fueled condition but to make a good diagnosis it's important for us to know.

[jclayto]

If you haven't already I would try replacing the CDI or do what Ghostrider52005 mentioned. And as feetup Stated fouled plugs means wet/oily, if the CDI is not working the gas is still getting to the cylinder making the plugs look fouled.
Just my thoughts.

Jim

[Chuckster]

Yes, the "fouling" is due to an overfueled system. It is a soot buildup on all 4 plugs and occurs within minutes of replacing the plugs. Gets worse as the bike warms up, and then the missing stalling etc begins.

Am not familiar with the CDI. Is that the main computer under the rear trunk?

And contrary to what we thought it was not contaminants from the Sea Foam clogging up the system.
The other oddity is that upon starting a cold bike, the "choke" goes into a high rev. Was up to 2400 RPM and stayed there for a while which unusual.

And even after bike was sitting for 20 min after a very short ride the fan came on. On my prev Wing the fan stayed on after shutting bike off. This bike fan shuts off with ignition off, but will come on if bike turned on even after 10 min.

[jclayto]

The CDI boxes are #4 and #5 at this link. You will need to dril down, I mean select Honda year ect then SEi-Ignition coils

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://honda.hondabike.com/fiche_section_detail.asp">http://honda.hondabike.com/fiche_section_detail.asp</a><!-- m -->

I did a quick search and it looks like they are going for around 200 bucks (OUCH) Mu V45 magna was a 100 bucks and that was too much.

Jim

[jclayto]

Sorry select motorcycle first

Jim

[admin]

If it was my bike I'd be checking the fuel pressure as this has shown itself to be a problem on these bikes over the years. Typically the fuel pressure regulator goes bad. If you need specs and instructions on testing fuel pressure just email me at <!-- e --><a href="mailto:goldwinger1984@yahoo.com">goldwinger1984@yahoo.com</a><!-- e --> and I'll send them to you.

[Chuckster]

Thanks. Am passing along this data to the mech. He was thinking that the problem may have been the temp. sensor, but he is also going through comments from this site that I am forwarding to him to view.

[jclayto]

Chuckster

Admin busted me, I guess I will need to read a little better. When you stated that you checked the fuel flow I read into it that you checked the pressure but you didn't say that....MY BAD!

Admin is right you should check the pressure.

Jim

[Feetup]

+1 on fuel pressure.
The fact that you treated the fuel system, which then led to the described over fueling really does point toward a stuck fuel pressure regulator. The fact that you are getting no fault codes points toward a non electronic problem or a failed CPU, but a failed CPU would show other symptoms as well, most likely a failure to deliver any fuel.
There are a number of EFI systems that fail the fuel pressure regulator in the closed (non relief) mode. This is not unique to Honda
I suppose a further, although unlikely possibility could be 4 injectors with stuck pintles (from the recently freed crap) allowing contant fuel delivery. This is unlikely though for there would have to have been issues with both the primary fuel screen and the fuel filter for this to happen.

[Chuckster]

thanks on that. Asked admin for data and will get over to mech. No never had the pressure checked, but the last comment made seems to make sense to me.

BTW, does anyone have access to one of those cone filters for the fuel pump? Or suggestions as to where I can order one from?

Thanks.

[Keener]

Chuck, try <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.straightwings.com/">http://www.straightwings.com/</a><!-- m -->

I can't remember the fellow's name but I've dealt with him on several occasions and found him to be very helpful. Plus, he's not too far from you.

[Chuckster]

That's awesome. I have sent an email to the site and will see what feedback I get. Hell, if it wasn't for this GL1200wings site and you guys as well as the Steve Saunders site, I would have been totally lost and discouraged. You guys have been just great in giving helpful ideas and advices. To say I appreciate it would be an understatement. I am really looking forward to the day when all this is behind me and I am back in the saddle. In the meantime all of your advices are greatly appreciated, and thanks for bearing with me and clarifying things I don't understand.

Chuck

[ghostrider52005]

Something else you might check after reading some of your later posts. That would be the coolant lines to the sensor that controls your fast idle on cold start. Theres one line coming up from the thermostat housing and a few that go to sensors that tell the thing the engine has warmed up so it quits richening up the mixture. Have to check a manual for all the water lines that are involved in that but not that many i dont think. I do know there is a line you can pinch off with your fingers that the manual speaks of I think on the brake side of the bike that when its pinched off will make the bike fast idle no matter what the temp actually is.
As far as the fan turning off when I turn off my LTD which is basically the same bike as the SEI the fan shuts down also. I have even had it be right on the edge of the fan kicking on and shut it down then turn the key on five or so minutes later and heat build up sitting right after shut down was enough to have the fan kick on when i turned on the bike shortly after shut down on a hot day.
ive never had it stay on after turning the key off. I wouldnt see a practical reason for it to do that since with the engine off all its doing is blowing air over the radiator with no coolant circulating thru the engine with the engine not running.
Im no engine designer but I wouldnt think a blast of cold water into a hot engine from a cold radiator would be great for the heads but thats just a guess on my part.