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1984 starter/exhaust broke out alum ear during stud extract
Any tips for a busted ear/seat during starter/exhaust stud removal on my '84 GL1200?

Had 3 full turns of movement before it would act tight again. Turns out the aluminum was mushroomed into the threads at the tip of the stud. Heat/PB blaster loosened it & it rocked loose® over 30min, but ultimately it broke out the lower half of the stud hole on one side.

Heard that Allum-aloy was a possibility, but have only seen one other post regarding a tig fix. What size stud is this and can a heli-coil seat in the upper half of the broken stud hole?

Am I really the ONLY one with this type of break?


Attached Files
.jpg   Left tSide Exhaust Stud.jpg (Size: 42.4 KB / Downloads: 210)
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#1 05-17-2011, 07:40 PM,
OUCH

That is a first. I did not have any problems like that, nor have i heard of others either.

Fortunately the headers do have three more bolts that should do the job OK even without this stud. Still obviously you would want to repair it any way you can.

I think I would see if a local welding ship that can weld aluminum might be able to help, if not then JB weld might be the next option, just don't torque it down too much on that bolt.
'RIDE TO BE SEEN' :d

Most common quote from a cager after killing a motorcyclist.

"I never saw him" instead of "I never looked for him".
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#2 05-17-2011, 09:53 PM,
Starter shows 23mm remaining on commutator & appears shorted by a "wear ring" accross all bars. What is the min on wear &/or where do you find a replacement?
As for the cracked off alum stud hole, I've hear that JB weld wasn't rated to exhaust temps (only 500 deg).
Any exotic adhesives known to be able to take the heat?
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#3 05-18-2011, 09:56 AM,
considering the spot a good tig welder friend is probably your best choice
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#4 05-18-2011, 10:06 AM,
Sorry, rather abrupt post for a volunteer army of experts. I appreciated your prompt reply, neoracer & unionjack.

Before I pulled the starter it b-a-r-e-ly turned over. The positive battery post-to-brush contact was good through the permanent magnet.
There was 6-8 solder "globs" (technical term ;] ) between the armature & the perminant magnet when I opened the starter. Where is THAT from?
Could someone comment on the starter wear regarding the tolerances? Picture shows commutator @ < 24mm. Is this to far gone?

**modifications already done: (fused the 3-yellow wires/stator, replace dog bone fuses at solenoid, battery tender, new battery)
**modifications left: (braided ground strap for starter brushes & starter relay rework)
Have I missed anything?

Thanks folks


Attached Files
.jpg   Commutator Surface _22-66mm.jpg (Size: 70.76 KB / Downloads: 163)
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#5 05-18-2011, 12:20 PM,


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