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right side carbs running to rich 84 interstate
i had the bike on its center stand for a few days fixing little wire ends
adding a volt meter, adding a new mechless radio, new antenna.
anyhow, got ready to take it down the road and it ran like s :-L
went back its over heating guess the temp swtich or fan decided to take a poop on me
i pulled the plugs and left side looks brand new, right side is all sooted up
now i only have 300 miles or less on the bike since i got it
ive changed fuel line, fuel, air, and oil filters, plugs, regulater,
started reading through the manuel cant be coils
is it possibly that far outta sync?
at idle it sounds good, have a little puff back, but take it out and it surges very bad
any thoughts would be huge help thanks in advance
OzzFreak
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#1 04-13-2011, 02:39 PM,
Did the bike experience the problem before you started fixing stuff?
How many days is ‘a few days’?
How far down the road did you go?
Running lean will cause excessive heat. One side lean, one side rich?

Make sure you replace parts with quality parts or you may end up chasing your tail.
ALL the fuel lines were changed?
Some fuel filters are of poor quality.
It is possible to be that far out of sync. Set the sync and see what happens.

Are all plugs firing? I squirt the headers with water to see who is hot and who is not.
Also, hands at the exhaust tips, are they putting out the same temperature?
(put up some box fans to keep engine cool while testing)
The cooling fan has a separate fuse – is it good?
Hard wire the fan to test it
Did the bike sit before you bought it? How long? You may need to clean/rebuild the carburetors.
Since it does run, try a tank or two with Seafoam additive.

I like to keep a log of symptoms, possible solutions and what did work.
Go after the problems you are experiencing in a logical order. Don’t skip around. Address one issue at a time or aggravation may settle in.

My bike sat for two years before I found it. It took me two years of spare time to get her commuter worthy. Now I am enjoying the fruits.

Stay tuned to this forum as it is loaded with information.

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#2 04-19-2011, 11:56 AM,
bs175dths Wrote:Did the bike experience the problem before you started fixing stuff?
hard to tell i put new plugs in th day i got it
Quote:How many days is ‘a few days’?
3
Quote:How far down the road did you go?
4 miles
Quote:Running lean will cause excessive heat. One side lean, one side rich?

Make sure you replace parts with quality parts or you may end up chasing your tail.
i always used good parts i never try to skimp because you never know you might have bought a junk part
Quote:ALL the fuel lines were changed?
yes
Quote:Some fuel filters are of poor quality.
used a pulater replacement filter
It is possible to be that far out of sync. Set the sync and see what happens.

Quote:Are all plugs firing?

yes nice blue spark
Quote: I squirt the headers with water to see who is hot and who is not.
Also, hands at the exhaust tips, are they putting out the same temperature?
hard to tell from the tips there is the equlizer pipe on the system but the right side smells more fumes
but the right side pipes were not even as hot as the left side
Quote:(put up some box fans to keep engine cool while testing)
The cooling fan has a separate fuse – is it good?
Hard wire the fan to test it
fan works i bypassed the temp switch fan comes on when acc is on
Quote:Did the bike sit before you bought it? How long? You may need to clean/rebuild the carburetors.

it was running and driving when i first looked at it
Quote:Since it does run, try a tank or two with Seafoam additive.
i've used one bottle so far about 4 tank fulls

Quote:I like to keep a log of symptoms, possible solutions and what did work.
Go after the problems you are experiencing in a logical order. Don’t skip around. Address one issue at a time or aggravation may settle in.

My bike sat for two years before I found it. It took me two years of spare time to get her commuter worthy. Now I am enjoying the fruits.

Stay tuned to this forum as it is loaded with information.

-Ride On

i put new plugs in the right side and it ran great i let out the idle screws on the carbs on the right side and its seams to be running better
so i know it needs to be syncd

for now i'm installing an aftermarket tep switch which will control the fan it was $20 from advance auto


rode it for 5 dys with no problems comming home tonight i used the light bar i installed with 2 55watt running lights
battery died left me sitting and waiting for a jump
battery id good load tests fine. already changed voltage regulter
going to recheck voltage and resistance to stater wires in the a.m.
Reply
#3 04-20-2011, 08:52 PM,
B-( B-( [-X [-X

unless you are running a poorboy,the aspy stator will not support use of driving lights for any length of time

and since you probably haven't rewired the dogbone,stator and the regulators yet and/or replaced stock bulbs you are pretty much maxed out for power when you use your brakelights

and since your bike has probably never had other power connectors cleaned in years your situation isn't gonna get much better

you might want to double your seafoam amount for a couple of tanks,and also try ripping it thru the gears a little to try to clean some carbon off those pistons,goldwings loved to have their "wings" stretched occasionally,course where you live there are probably few places that allow that,but even a 2nd gear rip onto an interstate at times is good for a wing
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#4 04-21-2011, 12:46 AM,
I purchased a voltmeter from Honda Water Sports division (water proof and says HONDA on the face) and used the ACC terminals at the fuse block as a source. With a pair of BATES auxilary brake/tail lights, the volts dropped from 14.1V (at idle) to below 12V each time I applied the brakes. Needless to say, I removed the bulbs in the BATES lights and now the voltage drops to just below 14V (13.7 or 13.8V). Even if you use a DMM and temporarily mount it to the bike, at least you could monitor what the draw is with or without the lights. I am looking for a lower wattage, dual element bulb to run in the BATES so there will be minimal draw but increased rear visibility. I am not ready to go LED just yet. So far, the stator seems to be supplying enough for the bike to function. I AM looking into the Poorby conversion which would eliminate the issue altogether.

-Ride On

(this probably should be in electrical and not carbs and tuning)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
Reply
#5 04-21-2011, 01:40 PM,


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