Carb Sync question from newbie

[jfinlandolakes]

I have done some looking on here and don't see what I'm looking for.

I have worked on syncing my carbs and followed the instructions in the tech center on here...just have a different gauge.

If I get them synced at the idle rpm and then tweak it at the 2900 it's off when the engine slows down to the idle again.

The wing had been sitting a while when I got her two weeks ago. I have run some carb cleaner through it for the 3 tanks that I've used so far. I have changed the oil and fluids and she is running much better but just have this issues with the carbs.

So what's my next step?

[KnoxSwift]

My experience has been I get the best setting when I sync at ~1050-1100 RPM...Then it's good from Idle to 3K (smooth)...At idle the gauges bounce around way too much to obtain a good reading.

Make sure the set screws aren't loose and vibrating out of spec. I had this issue on my bike and a simple "dab" of silicone keeps them in place but still because it's non-perminet silicone I can move the screws. I guess there are other products that would do this but I wanted a non-perminent solution.

[bs175dths]

First, welcome to this wonderful site.
Second, set the sync as was mentioned in earlier suggestion, then ride her. Take note of her performance, getting on the throttle, getting off the throttle, street and highway performance. Also note mpg. Do another sync and compare the results of the two sync sessions. It appears these GL1200 can be as different as a fingerprint and since she is new to you, you need to become familiar with who she is and how she acts. Her best may not be the same as other GL1200s, so you must learn. (Un)fortunately that means you must spend some time in her saddle. Time will answer your questions and the bonding will commence.

Enjoy!

-Ride On

[bluewing]

Another welcome to the site. When I sync my carbs it is also a bit different at 1000 rpms and 3000 rpms. I first set it at 1000 then tweak it at 3000 because the is my normal driving rpms. It works best for me that way.

[badwing1200]

I followed the Youtube video and the job went smoothly.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/v/FWilsQjTUbs">http://www.youtube.com/v/FWilsQjTUbs</a><!-- m -->

[admin]

[quote="KnoxSwift"]My experience has been I get the best setting when I sync at ~1050-1100 RPM...Then it's good from Idle to 3K (smooth)...At idle the gauges bounce around way too much to obtain a good reading.[quote]

You can stabilize that low speed reading by installing restrictors in each of the vacuum hoses which will dampen the vacuum signal and your gauges will still work correctly at low and high rpm.

[neoracer]

i worry more about the sync at about 3000-3500,because about the only time its idling is at a light, :YMHUG:

if its way off or idles very badly it probably means the idles circuit need some carb cleaner(seafoam or techron) run thru them,if really bad may be time for a carb rebuild or you have a vacuum problem or something else has gone wrong,bad gas,plugs,sparkplug wires or caps

[admin]

The only true way to accurately synch the carbs at higher rpm's is to have the bike running on a dynomometer and perform the synch under load in high gear, although obtaining a good average in readings between idle and 3000 rpm is a good step forward. I have taken my bike out with the gauges installed just to see what's really happening as I drive, but, I DO NOT recommend that anyone try this because it is ridiculously impossible to maintain steady rpm at the throttle, read the gauge and turn the synch screws all at the same time without running into something. Now, I'm just joking about turning the screws but I have watched, fleetingly, the gauge as I drive then pulled over and made the required adjustments, but, it's slow and tedious doing it this way. Much better to set it up on a dyno and do it right.

[neoracer]

will put one on my "wish list" :d :d :d :d
several years ago md passed a law and alot of shops bought them because they thought they could make money tuning up cars that failed emissions tests,two shops that i had accounts with sold them 5 years later after only doing a handfull of cars and each lost about $30 k each on the deal,each one was bought by hi-po mc shops \:d/ \:d/ \:d/

[seabee]

My experience has been I get the best setting when I sync at ~1050-1100 RPM...Then it's good from Idle to 3K (smooth)...At idle the gauges bounce around way too much to obtain a good reading.

You can stabilize that low speed reading by installing restrictors in each of the vacuum hoses which will dampen the vacuum signal and your gauges will still work correctly at low and high rpm.

You can use fish aquarium valves to control the fluctuations. You can check this link to see a short video of how well the valves work. It also shows how to make and use your own sync gauge set. I'm in the process of building a set now. I got the gauges at HF for $8 each. Waiting for the adapters to hook into carbs.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=81">http://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewt ... ?f=11&t=81</a><!-- m -->