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Stainless brake & clutch Lines
I've seen several that were rusty but I think they only rust if someone gets too aggressive with abrasive chrome polish on them as it tends to rub the thin plating off after a while. Using the wrong size wrench will also rub the plating off if the wrench slips. You can aggressively rub stainless all you want and it just gets shinier and shinier.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#16 05-21-2011, 08:23 AM,
I've just had a guy put new seals on the left front caliper (left as you sit on the bike) It was a little spongy/mushy before (hence me asking about braided hoses earlier) and is now worse ! The hoses are not that bad and its new fluid so there must be air in there somewhere. Is there a special 'knack' to bleeding these old girls ?
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#17 05-24-2011, 10:51 AM,
If the brake hoses are original then they should be replaced as a matter of routine maintenance. To get rid of that sponginess you must first make certain that the caliper slides are lubricated and totally free with no abnormal binding, make sure that the piston is free to move in the caliper and is fully contacting the brake pad, no dirt or debris between the piston and the pad, same goes for other side pad and then bleed at the caliper and then bleed at the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. If you do all you will get a solid brake feel, if you missed something the brakes will be spongy. The master cylinder could be bad but from what I read I don't believe that this is the case here.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#18 05-24-2011, 11:17 AM,
I've just taken the bike down to Chasbikes in London UK. They've been in business years and generally 'know their stuff'. He spent over an hour coaxing air out of the left front caliper brake system - he went up between the forks and started generally rattling and tapping around in the area where the brake hoses are metal. His explanation was that due to the hose to metal to hose line configuration there are places where theres a possibility of high spots on the hose/lines where air can become trapped. I then watched him for over 30 mins just sitting there gently tickling the front brake lever watching tiny bubbles of air appearing from within the system. Its now pretty much where it was before - perhaps a little better due to the new brake piston seals and caliper clean up.
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#19 05-25-2011, 09:56 AM,
If he is a professional then he should have a pressure bleeder that flows brake fluid through the braking system capturing and carrying the air bubbles out as it travels through the brake system otherwise you could do the same job he is doing at home at no cost to you.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#20 05-25-2011, 10:30 AM,
I was watching very closely and for every minute of the 85 and he was busy ! Maybe he has an issue with pressure bleeders or maybe he was just plain old ripping me off !
Anyway next time I'll know exactly what to do myself 8)
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#21 05-25-2011, 12:24 PM,
Hi Tony, just so you know, old rubber brake hose will expand somewhat under pressure and cause a mushy feel to the brake lever/pedal. That's why I switched up to braided stainless steel brake hose with a Teflon liner. Instantly, after the upgrade, I had a solid lever brake lever feel and I could actually lock the front wheel, if I wanted to, on dry pavement with a hard brake application. The upgrade was worth the effort and expense, especially when I've seen it in print that the rubber brake hoses should be replaced every 5 years. If you saw the inside of your original brake hoses you'd see decomposing rubber, cracks and weak spots which is what I saw after cutting my old brake hoses apart. I said it before and I still stand by my statement that if you're driving a 25+ year old bike then the first thing you should spend any money on is new hydraulic brake hoses because saving up to replace those old brake hoses is much more important than saving up for gasoline since not having gas means you can't go out and hit anything but not having brakes at high speed, well, it's just plain silly to say the least. There are deals to be found on stainless steel brake hoses even in your part of the world so I hope you give it some serious thought and consider your safety and that of others on the road with you.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#22 05-25-2011, 12:55 PM,
Thanks Admin - I'm totally sold on braided hoses for all the reasons you mention and I am going to get it done - I'm just going through the process of sorting out the cheapest way of doing it !
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#23 05-26-2011, 01:26 AM,
Don't know what shipping would be to you but if you check this thread <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8652&hilit=stainless+steel+brake+hose">viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8652&hilit=stainless+steel+brake+hose</a><!-- l --> you'll see a link to a very reliable and economical source for stainless steel brake hose. Good luck.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#24 05-26-2011, 04:37 AM,
I've now got a single braided line that goes direct to the front left caliper and its made a big difference. I'm now saving up to have the rest done $-)
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#25 06-19-2011, 01:50 PM,
Well done tonyc57.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#26 06-19-2011, 01:52 PM,
Thanks again admin - BTW can you help with my AE/AF/AG/AH vs DE/DG question in the Master Cylinder thread below ?
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#27 06-19-2011, 02:24 PM,
Hmmm, I've got my glasses on but I still can't see the thread you mentioned.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#28 06-19-2011, 02:56 PM,
Heres the question :

"Inspired by this thread I ordered a brake master cylinder kit for a GL1200 DE/DG but I've got a 85/86 Interstate and it won't fit. What do the letters AE/AF/AG/AH and DE/DG mean ?"
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#29 06-19-2011, 03:06 PM,
After getting my second set of lines from <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.classic-cycle.ca/">http://www.classic-cycle.ca/</a><!-- m --> and along with discussion between Phillip and myself we decided that the best way to install the single clutch line is to fasten the fixed banjo end of the hose to the clutch slave cylinder and have the swivel adjustment at the master cylinder end.
I installed mine the opposite way and not sure I like the possible friction on the universal dust cover. I will be re-routing the cable soon.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#30 06-19-2011, 04:28 PM,


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