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What's the secret for real wheel removal?
Hello all,

Ok, I read this section of the forum and the manual before attempting to remove the rear wheel. Now to be up front, I don't have a hoist, I can't lift the bike, but I do have a car jack and other home garage tools. I did follow the Honda manual and other tips listed here, but, when I tried to get the tire/wheel out of the bike via movement to the rear the tire got hung up between the trailing link frame and the final drive case.

So what is the secret to removing the rear tire/wheel as described in the Honda shop manual? :-SS

I was able remove the tire after I loosened up the finial drive from the output shaft tube but I took it a bit too far and now I will have to realign the output shaft with the universal joint. Any tips on doing this too would be greatly appreciated. :YMPRAY:

Thanks in advance.
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#1 03-21-2010, 07:35 AM,
One thing is to let the air out of the tire in some instances

Look closely where the spider locates into the splines on the drive, if the spider is loose in the wheel sockets and there is lots of grease there, it may tend to slide out of the wheel, this will prevent the wheel from coming out.

The spider has to remain with the wheel
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#2 03-21-2010, 08:25 AM,
Mine is a tight fit but if I wiggle the tire and wheel it will come out.

Like Tricky said let some air out if you have to.
A rainy day off beats a sunny day at work any time..................
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#3 03-21-2010, 10:15 AM,
My spider stayed with the wheel. So this was not a problem. On an other note, I need to check these pins.

Ok, so the secret is to let some air out. Duh, "I could have had a V8" #-O

Thanks,

PS: Any tips on getting the output shaft back into the universal joint?
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#4 03-21-2010, 10:45 AM,
[quote="owaace" PS: Any tips on getting the output shaft back into the universal joint?[/quote]

I did that last weekend. As others have suggested, it can be a tricky thing to line up. I reached inside the housing with a 3/8 wood dowel, and flopped the end up in the air a little, rotating the joint to one side. It stay somewhat centered. Not perfect, but enough to slide the drive shaft to the face of it. I rotated the the gear in the rear hub while pushing against the universal, and it slid in. It went so easy the 2nd try that I figured I missed it, but turning the axle gear by hand reassured me it went it.. Patience and going slow was the key for me...
Randy
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#5 03-21-2010, 11:11 AM,
I just completed removing my rear wheel, final drive, and shaft. However, I had the bike on a motorcycle jack. I had an issue aligning the shaft with the u-joint which was the u-joint popping off of the transmission end. I posted my issue and glhonda posted back to check the boot at the transmission-swing arm. And wala, there was my u-joint flopping around. I was able to hold the u-joint on the tranny spline and wiggle the final drive in.

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Attached Files
.jpg   u-joint at tranny off spline.JPG (Size: 274.63 KB / Downloads: 405)
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#6 03-22-2010, 06:49 AM,
I found another method to make the finial drive installation go smoother.

1) I opened up the rear side of the universal joint boot and slide it forward.
2) I then rotated the universal joint so that the rear end joint casting's axis was vertical. So that the rear piece can move to the left or right.
3) Using a flashlight and a small rod, I looked into the rear of the drive shaft tube and aligned the rear end of the joint so that it was in the middle of the rear drive tube.
4) Using a medium sized pry bar (screw driver handle style), placed between the top of the tube housing and the top of the rear casting of the universal joint. By applying a slight downward pressure on the pry bar handle you can elevate the rear casing end.
5) I place the final drive shaft into the tube and had the drive resting on a block of wood. The mounting bolts of the final drive housing were just shy of touching the rear flange of the drive shaft tube.
6) From the right side of the bike, I used my fight hand to apply downward pressure on the pry bar and used my left had to slide the final drive shaft into the universal joint. It took about three tries of slightly rotating the final drive wheel spline so that the splines of the final drive shaft to line up with the universal joint.

It sounds more complicated that in really was and took about 4 minutes to get the shaft into the universal joint.

Thanks for the suggestions.
Reply
#7 04-01-2010, 01:56 PM,


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