Rear splines

[Wingnoob]

I removed the rear wheel and serviced the splines today for the first time on my 40,000 mile '85 Aspy that I bought a year ago.

Didn't need it done at all - lots of grease in there, splines and pins are like new, but at least now I *know*.

Used Moly 60. $25 from Honda dealer. It's grey. Should be enough for about 20 spline lubes in there, it goes a long way.

Used the manual (front of this thread) method. Bike on center stand, removed BOTH saddlebags, de-air and disconnect bottom of shocks, PULL THE BOTTOM OF THE SHOCK OUT of the swingarm socket (not mentioned in manual!) then you can lift the swingarm with a 2x4 lever under the final drive and remove the axle. Will be easy the next time I do this - this time took about 3 hours.

Looks like I need a new brake rotor next time I'm in there though. Good source for that?

[SIR tricky]

EBC make a good quality rotor unless your into buying used..... what am I saying..... you already have a used one :-\ :-\

[Wingnoob]

EBC make a good quality rotor unless your into buying used..... what am I saying..... you already have a used one :-\ :-\

TY I have a good local shop that can get me EBC. Or might even have one in stock in a dusty old package, it's that kind of place.

[JerryH]

I have a question about the splines. I just bought an '85 LTD, and the previous owner just had the tires replaced by a local Goldwing shop. Is it the splines between the rear wheel and gearcase that seem to be the problem, or is it the splines on the driveshaft itself? I also have an '02 Vulcan 750, and the main problem with those is not the splines that connect to the rear wheel, but the splines on both ends of the driveshaft itself, along with the splines on the engine and final drive gearcase that the driveshaft connects to. Many of these were not properly lubed at the factory, and the splines wore out before the first service was due. Failure of the rear driveshaft splines destroyed the final drive gearcase, which costs $1000 new. Should I go ahead and tear it down and see what is in there before riding it very far? And if I do find problems, are used parts hard to find? Thanks, Jerry.

[unionjack]

FOR YOUR OWN PIECE OF MIND YES YOU PROBABLY SHOULD.

USE THE MOLY 60 PASTE.

The splines are the wheel to diff. and both ends of the drive shaft, plus also the splines on the U-joint however that will not be coming out of the bike without removing the swing arm, the one end of it is in the engine anyway, the other will get lube from the end of the drive-shaft as you reinsert it anyway.

[robdavspa]

I need to know if a driven flange from a 1990 1500 will fit a 1986-87 rear wheel with the 65 mm hub. Thanks
Bob

[admin]

I have a question about the splines. I just bought an '85 LTD, and the previous owner just had the tires replaced by a local Goldwing shop. Is it the splines between the rear wheel and gearcase that seem to be the problem, or is it the splines on the driveshaft itself? I also have an '02 Vulcan 750, and the main problem with those is not the splines that connect to the rear wheel, but the splines on both ends of the driveshaft itself, along with the splines on the engine and final drive gearcase that the driveshaft connects to. Many of these were not properly lubed at the factory, and the splines wore out before the first service was due. Failure of the rear driveshaft splines destroyed the final drive gearcase, which costs $1000 new. Should I go ahead and tear it down and see what is in there before riding it very far? And if I do find problems, are used parts hard to find? Thanks, Jerry.

The GL1200 wheel to final drive spline is the critical one because it sees the most dirt and water over the miles. So if you're not sure about the lube state tear it down and apply moly 60 now. The driveshaft to final drive spline gets splash lubrication from the final drive oil (but when apart lube with moly 60 for initial protection) but you should inspect it for wear because I have seen some driveshafts with the splines almost worn off completely, why? The rubber boot on the swingarm was torn and it allowed water into the driveshaft area and the water displaced the oil causing metal to metal contact at a rapid wear rate. The driveshaft to engine spline seldom wears much but it's wise to use moly 60 there for extra protection against wear. Used parts are cheap and fairly plenty and the bonus is that you can interchange a GL1500 final drive on your 1200 if you like.

[BladeRunner]

Since this thread is hot, can anyone please tell me if there are ANY differences in the rear wheels on 1200's from '84~'87? I just bid on a N.O.S. wheel that I WAS going to use on my '87,but, after re-reading the listing..it says for '84~'85. So, do I own a wheel that won't work? Or should I just keep it for the time my '84 standard needs it? #-O

[robdavspa]

Bladerunner, There is a difference in an 84-85 wheel compared to the 86-87. The 84-85 have a 60mm hub and the 86-87 have a 65mm hub. The driven flanges are not interchangeable.
Bob

[BladeRunner]

Thanks Bob, I guess it will go on the standard! :mrgreen:

[BladeRunner]

BTW, I'm assuming the '86~'87 don't have those issues with the bearings "losening" like the earlier 1200's?

[robdavspa]

Not that I have heard, Bladerunner.
Bob

[Roleketu]

It's been two years since I installed new E3's and lubed the fingers and splines. Have a huge trip in four weeks, riding to the "Tail of the Dragon". Today dropped the rear wheel for the two year preventive maintenance. Fingers are dry but in great condition, bushings are in great shape too. Old grease has been spun to the outer edges. Looks like I caught it before any damage was done.

[SIR tricky]

Was molylube used last time, It shouldn't have been thrown off in two years riding?

Regardless fortunately it was caught in time

[neoracer]

its possible that the seal inboard of the spline area needs replacement,easily overlooked that its even there