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Rear splines
About that time of year for those who's bikes are under cover, and maybe those who are riding might give it a thought or two

Although getting to the rear wheel can be a chore, getting it off could be said to be worse but those of us who are enthusiasts actually working on the bike can get as much pleasure as actual riding. For those who find it too much trouble maybe it's time to dump the bike and get out the Porche...... yeah :YMBRINGITON:

What follows is from the Honda manual for the 84-85 models, I imagine the later 1200's to be very similar. I ride an 85 because my Porche died on me :YMHUG:

Dont forget to grease the pins on the spider.

I find it easier to take of both boxes, left and right


[Image: rearspline1_zpsc7f27767.jpg]

[Image: rearspline2_zps51b47ec3.jpg]

[Image: rearspline3_zps27cf7996.jpg]

[Image: rearspline4_zps5e6bfd0e.jpg]

[Image: rearspline5_zpsf32b7f03.jpg]
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#1 01-29-2010, 01:42 PM,
Really good stuff Tricky.... I am among those that enjoy working on the bike and followed your lead and did this the last time you stressed it's importance.

The other thing I have gotten in the habit of doing is dunking every screw I take out of the bike into moly grease (unless it's torque critical) so the next time it is removed it comes out in a flash.
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#2 01-29-2010, 05:39 PM,
Bravo Tricky, great info. Marty, even "torque critical" fasteners need lubrication, more so than the non critical ones. The way that torquing works is by stretching the fastener, if it sticks and stops rotation the torque input increases but the actual proper torquing of the fastener does not happen. Lubrication allows the nut/bolt to turn freely thereby permitting stretching of the bolt/stud accurately giving the correct torque spec for that fastener.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#3 01-29-2010, 07:06 PM,
Tropicalsuns Wrote:Really good stuff Tricky.... I am among those that enjoy working on the bike and followed your lead and did this the last time you stressed it's importance.

The other thing I have gotten in the habit of doing is dunking every screw I take out of the bike into moly grease (unless it's torque critical) so the next time it is removed it comes out in a flash.


I worked in the steel industry and the bolts in there went through hell, we used never seize when we put them in and torqued them. Thats what I use on the bike, even the nuts that hold the exhaust headers on come off with out problems and they have many many miles on them.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#4 01-29-2010, 07:38 PM,
When I bought my aspy the P/O told me that the final drive needed to be cleaned and lubed, I didn't listen and drove the bike for two more years. One day I went for a ride and I heard a clunking sound, I had a tooth break off a gear in the final drive, nothing to do with the splines, I think it was a factory flaw. When I took the final drive off I found nothing but dry, rusty dust on the splines and they were worn about 70%. I was lucky that the hub was fine but the splines on the final drive were completely shot. For the last 4 years,once a year I clean the hub and splines with a tooth brush and cleaning solvent then grease them with molly 60. That may be too often for some people but they look like new every time I do it. I am going to keep doing it every year, it gives me a chance to check out other things while I am at it and I love working on my wing.
Ride safe have fun and enjoy. Lane
1985 Aspencade
2002 Vulcan
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#5 01-30-2010, 05:58 AM,
Hi guys long time!

Are the aspencade and interstate final drives interchangeable? I just got a rear tire and had to order a new driven flange spline. The mechanic said the final drive was about to go too. I have a lead on the final drive, but it is for an aspencade and not specifically for an interstate for which I have. Also, aren't the 84-86 final drives the same model for these years?

You guys are the greatest!
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#6 03-13-2010, 04:58 PM,
Last summer I helped a friend change his final drive and he has an interstate and we put one on off an Aspencade, they were the same.
Ride safe have fun and enjoy. Lane
1985 Aspencade
2002 Vulcan
Reply
#7 03-13-2010, 05:46 PM,
Conley Wrote:Hi guys long time!

Are the aspencade and interstate final drives interchangeable? I just got a rear tire and had to order a new driven flange spline. The mechanic said the final drive was about to go too. I have a lead on the final drive, but it is for an aspencade and not specifically for an interstate for which I have. Also, aren't the 84-86 final drives the same model for these years?

You guys are the greatest!

They are both the same, no difference at all.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#8 03-13-2010, 07:08 PM,
Dont forget to lube those pins when yo insert it into the wheel, failure to do so will result in a visit to wheel doctor :-W :-W
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

Reply
#9 03-18-2010, 08:28 AM,
Moly 60 paste or better is the preffered lube as it resists water displacement, whereas regular grease easily washes out and it just doesn't have the excellent properties that Moly 60 paste does. You can obtain it at most Honda dealers.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#10 03-19-2010, 12:01 AM,
Good man, enjoy the ride.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#11 03-19-2010, 06:21 PM,
Any long term owners out there have a suggested distance interval (km or miles or football fields if you narrate TV shows :d ) between services for the rear hub spline assembly?

I've ended up doing ours about every 132,000 football fields, at the same time as a rear tire change.

I'm running Metzler 880's and it looks like they plan to live a long time in our type of riding, so I may want to service the drive before needing a tire change?


Reply
#12 03-20-2010, 06:07 AM,
I clean and lube my rear splines, change my final drive oil and inspect everything as I am doing it, every year. This may be too often but it takes me about 4 hrs in my shop on a rainy day and I am sure everything is serviced and inspected. I once made the mistake of not doing it enough and I will never make that mistake again.
Ride safe have fun and enjoy. Lane
1985 Aspencade
2002 Vulcan
Reply
#13 03-20-2010, 11:18 AM,
If you use Moly 60 or better you can probably get away with lubing the splines every 2 years but if you drive in the rain or water often you should make the lubing a yearly event. Water just seems to wash the lubricant right off the metal parts, especially if the o-rings are damaged. If you're not sure about the o-rings replace them.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#14 03-20-2010, 01:24 PM,
admin Wrote:If you're not sure about the o-rings replace them.

I'll just add my question to this: I only found 1 o-ring (worn and replaced) when I took the driven flange off, but Clymer shows a 2nd on the wheel side. I hope this is a common size and I can just run down to parts store for one? Also where does this 2nd O-ring go as would probably help me with sizing to know where it fits even if someone doesn't happen to have their rear wheel of to measure it for me.
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#15 05-03-2010, 11:19 AM,


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