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Brake lines
The Clymer manual says to remove the fairing on the Aspencade to change the front brake lines. Has anyone installed new lines without pulling off the fairing? Is there enought room in there if the splash guard attached to the forks is removed? Any tips or advice is welcomed! Thanks.

Mike Hunter
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#1 05-13-2007, 08:58 AM,
You might be able to do it if you had some extremely short wrenches, very strong hands, could work from mirrors and you had two elbows on each arm and even then it would be difficult.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#2 05-13-2007, 10:02 AM,
Thanks, Vic - I think I get the idea. I wonder if those chipmunks I use for my home generator could be trained to use a wrench....(hmmm)

Mike
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#3 05-13-2007, 10:30 AM,
Jazzwing;

It can be done without removing the front fairing.

There is a steel line that connects one brake hose to the right front from the front hand brake hose. Remove the bolt hoding this unit to the triple tree and the whole assembly can be wiggled out.

The other line is a bit of a stinker as it sits on top of the frame in front of the tool compartment. A little bit of patience (okay, maybe a lot) and it is do able.

Get a good set of line wrenches and good quality metric wrenches, (10 mm, 17mm open, 10mm line) this makes the job sooooo..... much easier.

Howard Idea
Howard & Sharon Sims-GWRRA#259911
EX 1986 Aspencade
EX 2002 GL-1800

[Image: VisitedProvincesMap-copy.jpg][Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
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#4 05-13-2007, 01:46 PM,
Probably your best bet is to have Howard over to show you how it's done. Howard's a pretty good guy and he just might show up if you asked real nice. I'd show you but I've got very large hands and arms and I just can't get in there.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#5 05-13-2007, 05:56 PM,
I am also in the process of replacing my brakelines with steel braided that I ordered from Venco (Very impresessed with the service and delivery time to Canada and the duty was not as expensive as I expected). Finished the front one last night and if I was to do it again, I would probably remove the fairing again. Provided you do not have alot of extra aftermarket wiring that does not disconnect, most of the Honda connections pull apart so the fairing does not take that much time to pull off. For myself, I thank any time saved not taking the fairing off would quickly be lost by not being able to see the connections in behind the fairing. Of course if you had done it a few times and knew exactly what you are looking for and doing it would be possible.

My question to those with more knowledge, After I replace the rear lines, is there a specific order to bleeding the front and rear on the unified system ?

Second, I am using a Haynes manual (purchased before I read the recommendations on this site for the Clymer) It is helpful, but I am wondering if anyone has used both and whether the Clymer is signifiantly better. If it is better for inexperienced mechanics, please provide your comments.

Finally, my Haynes manual does not give the torque for the bolt that connects the brakeline to the master cylinde on the handlebar.
BarristerSteve
1985 Honda GL1200 LTD Current
1983 Honda GL1100 Int. - Previous
1980 Honda CX 500 - Previous
1973 Honda CT70 - Previous
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#6 05-14-2007, 05:58 AM,
I have always bled the one that's furthest away first then worked my way closer next.

Clymer seems to be a little more informative than Haynes and the Honda manual seems to be the best but each book offers its own unique perspective.

If you are talking about the 12 mm hex banjo bolt on the master cylinder hose it's 22 ft/lbs.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#7 05-14-2007, 06:25 AM,
I do have some aftermarket add-ons in the fairing, which is why I didn't want to remove it unless absolutely necessary; but I think I might take it off anyway since I've never done a brake line change and I probably should be able to see what I'm doing. Howard thanks for the advice for how to get to the job without fairing removal, and thanks Vic for offering for Howard to come up and help. You guys must know each other pretty well!

I use both the Clymer's & Haynes manuals. I read through both before doing any procedure (even if I have done it before). It's amazing how each seems to lack one detail that the other picks up. And sometimes one manual's photos are better than the other.

One other thing about brake lines: I gave Calsports a try on these because they were real prompt with returning my call and the price was very reasonable. That was on April 10 and I still do not have the parts. The parts were listed for 1985-87, so I asked them to be sure this also included the '84's. I inquired again after 1 week, then at 3 weeks and the manufacturer still had not confirmed. I finally got to the root of the communication problem with the factory rep who, as it turns out, was the problem. He just dropped the ball. Calsport agreed to a drop ship from the factory plus said they would refund all shipping charges. I'll let you know how this all turns out. I think that Calsport can be a good source for these now that we know the that the listing should be 84-87.
Mike Hunter
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#8 05-14-2007, 08:18 AM,
Is it confirmed 84-87?
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#9 05-14-2007, 09:23 AM,
It was confirmed verbally and they are shipping. I will wait for final confirmation when they are in my hands and I can see with my own eyes that they match. I'll post an update.

Mike
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#10 05-14-2007, 09:49 AM,
I have taken your advice and ordered the Clymer's manual as well. Having it explained twice and a couple of more times on the forums should increase the chance of success.

Jazz: If you continue to have problems with your order, the lines I ordered from Venco included a braided clutch line and was specific for the 85 LTD. I noticed that there were a few other sets that were specific to years. They were expensive but they are quite heavy compaired to the old rubber ones coming off and the measurements have been dead on so far. Good luck with your change.

Thanks again Vic, bleeding the furthest first sounds reasonable, I also ordered speed bleeders that I am going to install which should facilitate refilling the new lines.
BarristerSteve
1985 Honda GL1200 LTD Current
1983 Honda GL1100 Int. - Previous
1980 Honda CX 500 - Previous
1973 Honda CT70 - Previous
Reply
#11 05-14-2007, 01:00 PM,
Jazzwing;

I neglected to say the nature of my job and having small hands was a bonus when changing the front lines.

Howard :oops:
Howard & Sharon Sims-GWRRA#259911
EX 1986 Aspencade
EX 2002 GL-1800

[Image: VisitedProvincesMap-copy.jpg][Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
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#12 05-14-2007, 03:06 PM,
Well, the saga continues - or perhaps it's better to say it has been postponed. The brakelines arrived on Tuesday, only to find that the order was not shipped complete as they did not include the rear line. The order was dropped shipped from the manufacturer to speed things up, but the same guy dropped the ball again. I sent everything back to the dealer, CalSportsbike, and they are refunding my money with their deepest apologies. This appears to be a case of one link in the chain that was weak and, as a result, everything attached to it crashed. I called Venco; they showed 2 sets for the '84 Aspy in their inventory, but could not locate them and said it would be several weeks before they would get them in. (The '84 sets do NOT include the clutch hose). So, I'm going to bleed the brakes with the old lines, put the bike back together and try again next winter. Does anyone know of any other reliable sources for these parts? (Howard, put the trip to TC on hold for a while - I'll see you all in London in August!)

Mike Hunter 8)
1984 GL1200 Aspencade
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#13 05-18-2007, 07:09 AM,
Jazzwing;

Looking forward to meeting you.

Howard
Howard & Sharon Sims-GWRRA#259911
EX 1986 Aspencade
EX 2002 GL-1800

[Image: VisitedProvincesMap-copy.jpg][Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
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#14 05-18-2007, 03:11 PM,
I just replace the front brake line with stainless steel lines on my 86 ASP without removing the faring, by removing the two screws that hold the bottom plate under the fairing, taking out the two bolts that hold the steel line, then snaking them out and replacing them in the bench. then resnaking them back in.
86 Aspencade
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#15 07-21-2007, 08:10 AM,


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