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Another Starter Question
I have a 85 ltd trike and the starter won't engage when on bike the solenoid will click and I check the wire to the starter and it is getting fire to the starter but it will not engage. I took the starter off and when tested off the trike and the cable still hook to the starter and grounded with jumper cable from the neg side of the battery the starter will spin when I push the starter buttom. I was wondering if any anyone has an idea what it is causing it not to spin on the trike.
Jerry Driggers
1985 LTD Trike
Member American Legion Post 181--American Legion Post 181
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#1 08-24-2009, 12:11 PM,
A grounding problem perhaps?
Check and clean the connections at the battery and where it connects to the engine/frame then retry.

Ken
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#2 08-24-2009, 03:00 PM,
When it is on the bike does the starter sound like it is turning, just not turning the engine?? If so it is the starter clutch. :cry:

Poorboy
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#3 08-24-2009, 03:12 PM,
I'd get a starter rebuild kit for it and be sure to clean the area that the brush holder plate touches the starter housing (path to ground)...
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Also clean the main battery ground (as mentioned above) as well as check for voltage drop across the solinoid... Clean and lube the connections on the solinoid too... Ya might even consider replacing the solinoid with a new one... The new ones eliminate the dog bone fuse...
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Ed Zogg
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#4 08-25-2009, 12:29 AM,
Jerry....you need to clarify. Don asked the right question. Does it not spin at all on the bike, or does it spin and not engage. Two different problems. All the starter overhaul kits in the world aren't going to fix a bad starter clutch.
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#5 08-25-2009, 06:41 AM,
glhonda Wrote:Jerry....you need to clarify. Don asked the right question. Does it not spin at all on the bike, or does it spin and not engage. Two different problems. All the starter overhaul kits in the world aren't going to fix a bad starter clutch.
The starter will not turn at all when on the bike. In the pass when it was hot the starter would turn the engine slow it wouldn't do it all the time. The battery is a new odyssey battery and it is fully charge. Before the starter went out when I push the starter button it would draw about 4 to 6 volts
Jerry Driggers
1985 LTD Trike
Member American Legion Post 181--American Legion Post 181
Member American Legion Riders Post 181-- American Legion Riders Post 181
Member PGR--Patriot Guard Riders
Member GWRRA Chapter GA-K--GWRRA Chapter K
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#6 08-25-2009, 09:20 AM,
When you say it would draw about 4 to 6 volts, do you mean the battery voltage reading would drop by 4 to 6 volts.??? If so, then it might be possible that the battery is not producing its full output... If possible have it load tested (just about any auto parts store that sells batteries usually has the tester)... If it tests out good, then check for voltage drop across the solenoid (disconnect wire from the starter side of it, then push starter button and check voltage on both terminals)... The voltage should read the same on both... If not replace the solenoid... Another test is to jumper from the battery directly to the starter motor (while in the bike)... If the starter turns the motor over well, then likely it’s the solenoid... If little or no change, then likely it’s the starter motor... If you do decide to rebuild the motor, do ensure the windings are tested (armature and field windings)... If the starter had been laboring so some time now, it is likely got real hot and hurt the insulation on the windings (kinda the same thing that happens with the stator 3 wire plug problem)... If they got real hot, then a replacement starter is the better route to take (unless you know someone that can rewind the armature and field coils)...
Ed Zogg
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#7 08-25-2009, 09:58 AM,
If the only thing that has changed by testing the starter "off" the bike, is the ground wire, that's where you should start. Ken was probably right. Bad ground. Possibly bad ground wire/negative battery lead. With the starter in the bike, run an auxiliary ground strap from the starter body to the battery and see if your condition improves.
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#8 08-25-2009, 10:39 AM,
I am having the same issue The bike was starting fine, stopped for fuel and when I started it, it acted like the battery was weak (truned over slow) but it started. Got to the next stop and nothing but a CLICK from the relay. Push started it and if fired right up. I put a meter on it (neg to the battery neg pos.to the starter pos.) when I hit the start button I get 12.6 volts to the starter but it wont turn.

I did notice before this all happened that every time I pull in the clutch the neutral light would come one. The Neutral light will come on in nuetral like it should also. I read this post about having a ground issue where is this ground located at? Before finding this forum I order a starter assuming by my test it was bad! Any advice would be very welcomed! ACE
LOVE TO RIDE FORCED TO WORK
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#9 07-24-2011, 04:07 PM,
most likely the starter just needs to be removed,cleaned and new brushes installed,but while its out you might have it tested by a competent shop

if it starts when cold its most likely the above
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
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Hancock,MD
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#10 07-24-2011, 09:40 PM,
neoracer Wrote:most likely the starter just needs to be removed,cleaned and new brushes installed,but while its out you might have it tested by a competent shop

if it starts when cold its most likely the above

I ordered a new starter! I plan on ordering a rebuild kit for the old one so I can have one on hand incase it happens again. I hope this fixes it because WIRING is my weakness. These wings have a truck load of it!
LOVE TO RIDE FORCED TO WORK
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#11 07-25-2011, 06:02 PM,
Starter arrived today, so Friday, I'll tear into it. My only concern is it seems to be a 50/50 split weather to do the repair while on the center or side stand. What to remove or not seems to be in question also. By looking at it I am going to take off the exhaust, shifter, and the closest exhaust stud and try it from that point. Any words of wisdom for the removal from a 86 interstate is welcome.
LOVE TO RIDE FORCED TO WORK
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#12 07-27-2011, 06:42 PM,
Since it is a 1200 and not a 1000 or 1100 it does not have to be leaned over hard to prevent the gear from falling out of place in the rear cover, the 1200's have a nylon guide to keep it in place. Therefore you can have the bike on the center stand, or up on a jack if you want to.

To pull the starter you just need to remove the left header pipes and the one exhaust stud to obtain enough room to remove the starter.

When you replace the brushes and clean it up also add a ground wire between the brush plate and a small nut and bolt that you will add through the end cone of the motor housing. The main problem with slow starters, or starters that fail when they are hot is the bad ground between the brush plate and the motor casing.

http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/GL1200str.pdf

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#13 07-27-2011, 09:11 PM,


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