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Starter problem 84 GL1200A
I am having an intermittent starting problem. When I press the starter button, 9 times out of 10, I get a click and that's all. I have had the battery tested, replaced the clutch switch, checked all the wires for problems and corrected a few, I have checked the ground wireing and it seems to be OK, the solenoid has the blade type fuse. If I pull the side cover and jump across the battery and starter cables the bike will start up without a problem. On occasion if I press the starter button and hold it in for a few seconds the bike will start. This does not work every time. Do you think replacing the solenoid might correct this problem?

Bob
1984 Aspencade
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#1 08-18-2009, 09:45 AM,
Check the voltage drop across the solenoid when it just clicks.
It should be near zero if the internal contacts are good.

Ken
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#2 08-18-2009, 10:30 AM,
If replacing the soliod does not fix the problem, then it possibly is a poor ground... Clean the neg battery terminal where it connects to the frame... The other place that is common is the contact between the starter brush plate and the starter housing... I'd go for the new solinoid first though... They even come with the blade type fuse aready incoorporated into them...
Ed Zogg
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#3 08-18-2009, 10:45 AM,
Sounds to me like the starter button on handle bar switch is not making good contact. Not sending enough voltage to work the solnoid.

Poorboy
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#4 08-18-2009, 11:26 AM,
[quote="K Bergen"]Check the voltage drop across the solenoid when it just clicks.
It should be near zero if the internal contacts are good.

Ken[/quote

Ken, What two points should I meter across ?

Bob
1984 Aspencade
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#5 08-18-2009, 12:54 PM,
aspengold Wrote:Ken, What two points should I meter across ?

Bob
The two large wires on top, one comes from the battery the other goes to the starter.
You could just measure the voltage between starter wire and ground if your uncomfortable with putting a meter across the solenoid.

Also put your hand or finger on the solenoid while trying to start. You should feel it engage, if not the click your hearing maybe coming from elsewhere.

Ken
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#6 08-18-2009, 01:28 PM,
Thanks Ken, I will get into it on Friday. The more I work on this problem the more I am inclined to believe it just might be a dirty or worn starter button. I have a spare in my box of GL1200 goodies. I might change it out on Friday also. Just noticed the Left Fork seal leaking too.... ..OH Joy! That looks to be a challenging task.

Bob
1984 Aspencade
Reply
#7 08-19-2009, 09:21 AM,
I finally got around to check out the starter problem. I had another starter/kill switch assembly in a box of parts and unplugged the old switch & plugged in the replacement switch, without removing any of the wiring or wire ties, or installing the replacement and had the same problem - click-click. Replaced the solonid...problem solved...for now. She starts up fine every time. Now on to the fork seals.

Bob
1984 Aspencade
Reply
#8 08-28-2009, 01:53 PM,
I'm glad to hear solved solenoid problem as bump starting these heavy old birds can be a bitch "been there done that". :oops:

Changing fork seals is a piece of cake, just remember that you have to drive them in evenly, if you just use a punch you in all probability will kink the seal and it will fail. It's best to get or make a driver that will apply pressure to the whole circumference of the seal as you press or pound it in. A metal ring slightly smaller than the seal and using a punch on that will also work.

Ken
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#9 08-28-2009, 05:03 PM,
Ken,
Thanks for the tip. Will most likley use a press to set the seals. I have access to a few I can use without any cost.

Bob
1984 Aspencade
Reply
#10 08-28-2009, 05:07 PM,
I use the old seal flipped upside down on top of the new seal to drive it in... With a two foot (or so) piece of PVC tubing used as a slide hammer... It works well and the old seal doesn't get stuck in there as there is a bit of a step from the snap ring area up to the top...
I find it best if you add the new oil prior to putting the spring and caps back on... This way you can run the fork full travel by hand (slowly) to bleed all the air from the damper... Also, do use good quality fork oil in order to prevent oil foaming on rough roads...
I drilled and tapped 1/4 x 28 threads into the center of each fork cap and used washers with rubber vulcanized to them (can get at Home Depot or Lowes)... Having done this, I can now change the fork oil without needing to fight with the spring... I just drain and refill with a large syringe...
Ed Zogg
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#11 08-29-2009, 08:41 AM,
Thanks Ed, Great info

Bob
1984 Aspencade
Reply
#12 08-30-2009, 05:57 AM,


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