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Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control Installation on 85 Aspencade
After much research here and there... I did it. it took about 6hrs. total, but completely worth it.

My goals were a clean installation that you wouldn't see unless you were looking for it. I also didn't want to take any storage room away from the bike, and I didn't want to drill any holes or modify the bike in a way that I couldn't reverse.

There's 3 basic parts to the system, and they're all connected to the brains of the kit, the Servo. 1. the wires that control the servo. 2. a cable that connects to the throttle linkage. 3. a vacuum line that gives the Servo it's power.

1. The Wires: There's basically 4 things to do with the wires. There's power, a brake signal, an RPM signal, and connection to the controller on the handlebars. The easiest way to run this unit is off the coil. It can be set up to run off the wheel speed sensor, or you can use the magnets included to make your own signal, but the coil method is easy and proven. The Power can be easily tapped into on the fuse block on the ACC nut. Since the unit relies on vacuum for most of it's "grunt" the electrical power needed is super minimal. Even the backlights on the controller are LEDs. If you mount the Servo in the same spot as me, the brake light wires are right there. If you do use the "Coil" method that I used here, you can just clip the grey and (small) black wires from the wiring that would be for the wheel sensor.

2. Servo Cable: This is easily the hardest part of the kit, and requires that you think like an engineer to make it work right, and safely. There's literally thousands of ways you can do this...and I'd bet that every install is going to be a little different. I tried to keep the cable routed as straight as possible, and the linkage to the throttle as simple as possible. Make sure that you turn the twist grip throttle over and over to make sure that it's never going to bind up or cause anything to stick. You want it set up so that you can easily over-ride the system if you have to.

3. Vacuum: because our bikes don't produce the massive amounts of vacuum that a car does, you need to build or buy a small tank to accumulate vacuum. I spent about $20 on the PVC pipe, the check valve, and some adapters. but it was easy and fun.

Here's a couple other guides that I read to help put my strategy together:
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unit from Amazon.com $89 usd.
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bike with tupperware off.
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location of servo.
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barely can see it's there.
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Purple wire connected to brake light.
[Image: pic.php?mode=med&pic_id=403]

all 3 power lines to ACC port. Orange (switched), red (constant), and grey (controller backlight).
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Blue wire to (+) positive side of coil. (manual says to use (-) negative)??
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Blank spot to mount controller
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I modified the controller so that the wires came out the side, not the back.
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How it's going to look.
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and how it does look in the endSadI did coat the whole thing with silcon to weather proof it- just like in the Valkyriders.com guide. you can see some of the sealant on the wires. Be sure to keep the rubber pads in place when you seal it so the contacts on the back of the buttons will work)
[Image: pic.php?mode=large&pic_id=417]

I used some of the bracketry to make a mount from the bolt that holds the fuel filter in place. This feeds the servo cable from the right (throttle) side of the bike towards the #4 carb.
[Image: pic.php?mode=large&pic_id=410]

Another view from the left side:
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I really should have taken a picture before I mounted this part, but here's another view:
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Servo cable coming back to #4 armature. Also this is where I tapped into the vacuum lines that feed the air cut-off valve. the plastic black/white thing is a "vacuum check valve". it's basically a one way valve.
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Here's the vacuum tank that I made. 6" of 2" PVC with a couple 3/16 barbed pipe adapters.
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Another view.
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Here's where I mounted it. Another guy mounted the Servo here, but I think it's a dirty spot, and hard to reach if you're going to service or check on the Servo. It's just mounted with a hose clamp and one of the mounting brackets supplied with the kit. it's held in place by one of the bolts for the saddle bag.
[Image: pic.php?mode=large&pic_id=416]

Dip switches:
1 ON
2 OFF
3 OFF
4 OFF
5 OFF
6 OFF
7 ON

Couldn't believe it, but it worked on the first real test drive. You can actually "bench test" it in your driveway on the bike. Since the unit is working off the RPM of the motor, just rev the bike in Neutral to 1500 and hit "set". The second it takes over, it revs up too high and automatically shuts down because of the built-in protection (example: pull in the clutch). I did this a couple times to save myself the hassle of pulling off all the tupperware if I made a mistake. first bench test failed because I forgot to hook up the ground off the servo. D'oh! Second test revealed that the (-) side of the coil didn't work. dwitgoldwing told me to try the (+) side even though the manual says to use the (-)...whatever...it worked! Third bench test failed because I didn't hook the vacuum back up to the air-check valve (where I was stealing vacuum) so it didn't develop any vacuum. All easy fixes, but would have been pretty difficult had I been out on the side of the highway trying to troubleshoot.

It actually worked way better than I was expecting. My test ride was at 1am, and I didn't realize when I bought it that the controller was back-lit. That was a nice touch especially at night.
This is a pre-post just to make sure my pictures work and to get started. More detail tomorrow.
-Kevin
Reply
#1 08-10-2009, 12:24 AM,
Nice job so far Kevin and thanks for sharing. How is the cruise engagement? Smooth or jerky?
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#2 08-18-2009, 12:54 PM,
I would call it buttery smooth. the initial engagement is quick. I was expecting a 2-3 sec. lag for it to take up the built-in slack in the cable, but it was closer to less than one sec. and as long as you keep the throttle where it was when you press the "Set" button, it just takes over seamelessly.
I had it set at about 60mph on my first test and tapped the brake for an interchage clover leaf. I rounded the ramp at about 45mph and near the end I tapped the "resume" and it accelerated back to 60 at the same pace that I would have done with my wrist. Nice and easy, but not too pokey; maybe 4-6 seconds to get back up to speed? not more than 1/4 throttle.
I did try it on some neighborhood streets in 3rd gear at 25mph and it was jerky, but that was expected. I just wanted to feel what "too jerky" felt like and to see if it would even work at that speed.
Reply
#3 08-18-2009, 01:12 PM,
LOL Now you've got me thinking about how nice it might be to have one like yours on my bike.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#4 08-18-2009, 01:55 PM,
I guess I'm just old school.

No tunes for me, I want to hear what my bike is telling me and I want to hear that car that is blowing the stop sign at the blind intersection ahead.

Both hands on the bars at all times as I want to be in control.

I hear that the new anti-lock brakes work great but I'd hate to grab a big hand full of front brake expecting that the anti-lock system would take over and have it fail. Can you imagine doing a face plant at 60MPH?

Ken
Reply
#5 08-18-2009, 04:43 PM,
I can't imagine what a face plant at 60MPH would feel like but I did do one at 100MPH and let me tell you how glad I was that I was wearing my full coverage helmet that day, the chin section of the helmet was completely ground off in one spot. After many skin grafts and 6 months without being able to walk I finally got back on a bike again. These days I watch very carefully for drunks who drive through stop signs and try to avoid them completely.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

Reply
#6 08-18-2009, 05:22 PM,
K Bergen Wrote:I guess I'm just old school.

No tunes for me, I want to hear what my bike is telling me and I want to hear that car that is blowing the stop sign at the blind intersection ahead.

Both hands on the bars at all times as I want to be in control.

I hear that the new anti-lock brakes work great but I'd hate to grab a big hand full of front brake expecting that the anti-lock system would take over and have it fail. Can you imagine doing a face plant at 60MPH?

Ken

Unfortunately you will never see the one that gets you.... and if you do and live you probably won't remember.

What my bike is telling me is that I am deaf, all I can hear is noise, the radio helps to dispel that somewhat.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

Reply
#7 08-18-2009, 05:44 PM,
On those long rides it's just nice to relax your right hand. Plus I like to hold a steady pace and not worry about speeding.
Some day, I hope to be like this guy:
[attachment=0]
Funny, but I did faceplant at about 60mph this weekend on my Supermoto Racebike at practice. I'd hate to do that on the street.


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Reply
#8 08-19-2009, 10:40 AM,


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