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Broken fuse dog-bone fuse carriage / battery connector
Anybody know where I can get connectors for an 85 GL1200A? I need a new one for the dog bone fuse. My old one was melted (and leading to my occasional open circuits in the power distribution, I think). But when I tried to separate the plug from the receptacle, the whole thing broke apart. So I am without main fuse and not going anywhere. I also need to re-terminate the plug side of the connector.

Thanks in advance.

- Pete
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#1 08-06-2009, 03:53 PM,
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/techcenter/article1004.htm">http://gl1200goldwings.com/techcenter/article1004.htm</a><!-- m -->

Put your location in your preferences otherwise you will be booted from the site.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#2 08-06-2009, 04:45 PM,
pstelter,

Welcome to the site! Not all of us are as grumpy as the previous poster, though I am sure he means well. Most of us have performed the fix that Tricky wrote up. Lots of good info here, and great people too.
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#3 08-06-2009, 05:49 PM,
[-X [-X [-X [-X
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#4 08-06-2009, 07:25 PM,
Apologies in advance for the long post...

Thanks for the article. I will probably end up using an ATO type fuse, but I am going to replace the relay coil.

Prior to me investigating the dog-bone fuse, I had a couple of instances where the battery died complete;y. The first time, I thought I had left it in Park all day (and may very wel have). After charging the battery, I was able to drive it 3-4 more times, but then the battery dies again - this time evidenced by a completely dead motorcycle.

Research into the charging system showed me that my stator connector was almost in pieces. I completed the hard-wire fix on the stator yellow wires. Drove it to work for a couple of days and eveything was great. After the second day, the tried to start the bike about 20 - 30 mins after getting home. Got the dead bike syndrome again. This time, after I turned the bars, and re-tried the key, it sprang back to life. Checked the battery with the bike off - 12.7 V. Observed proper VR behavior with the bike running.

I looked at the Troubleshooing guide posted on goldwingdocs.com and found a great schematic (see attached). Based on the schematic, I looked at the starter relay connector (C103). The connector was all melted and when I tried to pry it apart, it ripped the right-hand fuse electrode away from the relay.

[attachment=0]

Because I am losing power and not blowing fuses, I know my problem is an open circuit. But, looking at the schematic, an open circuit in the ignition coil will still give me power to the clock and radio, etc. So, more research has shown that some Hondas have had starter coils go bad and cause everything to shutdown. So, I think I will replace the starter coil for about $60 and replace the dog-bone with the ATO ftype fuse.

Anyone see any holes in my logic? Comments appreciated.

- Pete


Attached Files
.jpg   power schematic.jpg (Size: 49.72 KB / Downloads: 553)
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#5 08-06-2009, 07:34 PM,
I'll raise my hand.
It seems you have a loss of electrical power, not a dead battery. If you're measuring 12.7 volts, it's just not gettting where it needs to go.
Granted, the solenoid connections are probably garbage and need to be repaired or replaced, but I'm having a hard time following the logic from "This time, after I turned the bars, and re-tried the key, it sprang back to life." to "So, I think I will replace the starter coil ".
This should indicate you have an ignition switch/wiring problem somewhere near the steering stem?
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#6 08-06-2009, 10:55 PM,
Yes I see holes, it is not starter solenoid. Check ground wires,the main one behind left motor mount. All the connectors need to be cleaned. Fuses and fuse block need to be cleaned. You should have 11+ volts at fuse block. Check key switch, should have around 12 volts there.
joe
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#7 08-06-2009, 10:58 PM,
kwatts Wrote:pstelter,

Welcome to the site! Not all of us are as grumpy as the previous poster, though I am sure he means well. Most of us have performed the fix that Tricky wrote up. Lots of good info here, and great people too.


We have had trouble with BOTS and hackers on the forum.... they don't leave their locations either :YMBRINGITON: :lol: :lol:
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#8 08-07-2009, 12:45 AM,
Checked the ground connections, both at the frame connection at the VR and where the battery cable connects to the frame. Both good.

I agree that this is a loss of electrical power, not a dead battery. (Maybe I am putting too much emphasis into this) but the key indicator in this is the loss of the clock. Looking at my schematic, an open circuit at the igntion switch connector (C80) - something that Gary described in a recent post - is not going to cause a loss of power at the clock (connector C58). The power for the clock and ignition switch are common at splice S234 and connector C103.

I'm not sure where the splice is, but the connector looked like crap. Was I was getting an intermittent open at the plug for this connector? I'm not sure...I couldn't duplicate it. BUT, when I tried to take the connector apart, it broke...catastrophically. Since the connector is integral to the coil, I need to replace the coil.. This may or may not correct the problem - I have found other complaints where a bad starter relay has caused an intermittent loss of all power.

This line of thinking is all based on two things:
1. The failure seen is an open circuit and NOT a soft short (i.e. one not significant to clear any fuses).
2. The power circuit is connected like the schematic shows. If not, all bets are off.

Thanks for all your help.

- Pete
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#9 08-07-2009, 04:36 AM,
When you say "coil" are you talking about the starter solenoid?

I think you are.

You do not need to replace the solenoid if you notice on the picture on the link I posted, the solenoid shown is the original that is still in the rubber holder.

You may purchase a new unit if you want to spend the money but by removing all the plastic and using the auto fuse you will solve the electrical problems associated with the burnt main fuse holder.

Sometimes the wiring is also burnt for several inches, I would suggest removing that and replacing with new wire of the same gauge.

Before
[Image: startersol.jpg]

After
[Image: solenoidwiringmod.jpg]
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#10 08-07-2009, 06:59 AM,
I have to agree that the problem I had with the connector going to the ignition switch would not interrupt power to the stock clock, that power doesn't go through the ignition switch.
Turtle
86 Interstate, ex  police bike
85 LTD, parting out

[Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
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#11 08-07-2009, 07:35 AM,
The red wire in the schematic for the clock is a memory circuit. Did the clock lose power and reset to 12, or did it just not function? The clock doesn't work without the key (ignition) on.
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#12 08-07-2009, 12:59 PM,
I don't have a clock, but I assume that it has power at all times, in order to keep accurate time. The display may come on with the key, but it has to have power all the time.
Turtle
86 Interstate, ex  police bike
85 LTD, parting out

[Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
Reply
#13 08-07-2009, 01:01 PM,
garyft Wrote:I don't have a clock, but I assume that it has power at all times, in order to keep accurate time. The display may come on with the key, but it has to have power all the time.
Absolutely right......the red wire maintains the time. I was trying to find out if he lost the time, or the clock just wouldn't work. If it just didn't work, the problem can still be in the ignition switch/connectors. If it lost all time, the problem may be elsewhere. Just trying to isolate the concern for a course of action.
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#14 08-07-2009, 01:06 PM,
Regarding the clock behavior...

My clock is on at all times, even with no key in the ignition.

The loss of clock that I describe is a complete loss of indication (no numbers displayed) followed by the (incessant) blinking 12:00...again and again and again...
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#15 08-07-2009, 04:34 PM,


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