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Brakes
OK, I need a little feeble mind refresher. The front brake lever works the left front caliper only? The foot pedal works the rear and the right front caliper, correct? I keep losing break function with the foot pedal but don't seem to be loosing fluid. Also the fluid reservoir under the right cover is for the rear only, correct? :-\
1986 Aspencade
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#1 08-05-2009, 04:03 PM,
fluid for the right front is shared by the resivoir with the rear caliper

sounds like the front and rear calipers need to be bled and/or your mc needs to be rebuilt
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#2 08-05-2009, 04:35 PM,
Or perhaps your rubber brake hoses are ballooning when pressure is applied.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#3 08-07-2009, 05:12 PM,
Thanks guys for the tips. First, the lines were replaced 2 years ago with stainless braided lines. While I was returning from Montana in 07 the rear brakes got really soft. I thought all the mountain riding two up pulling the trailer wore the brakes out, so when I got home I bought new pads, but when I went to install them I saw that the pads looked to be fine, but decided to replace them anyway being I bought them. That did not seen to make any difference, so I bled the system which seemed to help temporarily, so I bled them again only to last for a short time. So, I think something else needs to be done. Possibly a new master cylinder is in order. Any thoughts would be appreciated, as I am not riding now for fear the brakes won't be there when I need them. :-SS
1986 Aspencade
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#4 08-10-2009, 04:19 PM,
The next step I would take is to rebuild the master cylinders and calipers. Is there any sign of brake fluid leaking from the calipers? If so, that's a definite rebuild. It's possible that the master cylinder isn't developing enough pressure, a rebuild would take care of that as well. It could be as simple as contaminated brake fluid, or possibly DOT 3 instead of DOT 4. The wrong fluid could boil at too low a temperature and cause the brakes to fade. Contaminated fluid would do the same thing.

If it were me, I'd rebuild the master cylinders and calipers and purge/replace all the fluid.
Turtle
86 Interstate, ex  police bike
85 LTD, parting out

[Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
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#5 08-10-2009, 08:14 PM,
Having done the above mentioned repairs (a few years ago), I can vouche for the vast improvement it will make... It can be a bit difficult to get all the air out of the line running tothe front brake, but with patients and much bleeding it can be done...
If you do rebuild the calipars, insure the area the seals fit into are pecfectly cleaned of all corrosion, else the pistons will be difficult to put back in and will also bind when on the bike... Do use a good quality calipar grease during the rebuild as well... If you have everything right, the pistons should be able to be pushed in with just a little hand pressure... Also insure you get the needed other seals for the job (calipar float pin and lower bolt mount as well as the large bolt seal)... Basically I replaced all the rubber boots in the entire braking system...
Ed Zogg
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#6 08-11-2009, 08:15 AM,
Forgot to ask if you have running boards, if yes, remove the running board during the bleeding process as it gets in the way of proper travel to push all air out.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#7 08-11-2009, 02:20 PM,
Thanks again for the replies. That's one of the great thing about this site, all the help and knowledge you find here. No Vic, I don't have running boards. I guess I will try one more attempt to bleed the system, if that don't work i guess a rebuild is in order. I haven't had the chance to get a close look yet to see if there is any evidence of a leak or not. Hopefully I can take a look this weekend. Any idea of a good rebuild kit for the master cylinder and calipers (at an affordable cost of course)? I had to take a 15% wage cut, :YMSIGH: so priorities you know! Take Care Brian **==
1986 Aspencade
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#8 08-11-2009, 02:45 PM,
Just to throw out there an experience from a fellow winger... He had replaced all the brake lines with new steel ones... He too was getting a brake peddle that faded over time and required bleeding to restore (about every month or so)... He didn't notice much of any fluid loss and could not find any signs of a leak... It turned out to be a bad o-ring at one of the brake line connections that seemed to seal under pressure (just a little leakage) but allowed air to be drawn into the line... Upon replacing of all the o-rings the problem is cured...
My opinion of brakes is they are by far the most important system on the bike... If the bike won't run, it's inconvenient, if the bike won't stop, it's lethal.!! Every motor vehicle manufacture I am aware of recommends replacement (or rebuilding) of master and wheel cylinders far before the 20 year mark... They also recommend replacement of brake lines far before 20 years as well...
Ed Zogg
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#9 08-12-2009, 09:00 AM,


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