Removing the wheels, is it a pain?

[roscoepc]

It's raining outside???

[Guest]

It's raining outside???

Geez Ros!!! I leave it wide open for you with "Listen to the old guy", and all you can come up with is "It's raining outside?" #-O

[roscoepc]

It's raining outside???

Geez Ros!!! I leave it wide open for you with "Listen to the old guy", and all you can come up with is "It's raining outside?" #-O

Old guy?? You talking about Ian?? Who listen's to him?? :mrgreen:

[Skymajic]

While I greatly appreciate the wisdom of age, without question, I also realize that age can be mistaken. @-)

When the idea of a lift came though, I decided, because I am also a moderately wise and older fellow, that this option answered and solved several issues. Most of which was the option to NOT take all the important and essential stuff off of the back of the bike. That in fact, with the hoist I could very quickly bypass maybe 3/4 of that take it and then put it back on and hope it fits like it should, and bolts don't get lost, and nothin gets scratched! If I had a shop, or even a garage instead of a carport, where I could organize both parts and tools, If I had the mechanical ability to take the longer route, and if i really liked the idea of wrenching, nah, I still would have rented the hoist! I needed something to lift the bike anyway, as it rests on it's front wheel. Might as well get something that can do everything I needed AND offered precision.

You see, I had read the manuals before I posted this thread. But, as I said, I had never done this project before. After talking with you guys as well as the guys at the bike shop, I was pretty sure I wasn't about to tackle more than I was capable of.

It is my experience that this method was very successful. Everything worked as it was supposed too. And I very likely saved considerable time and frustration by not having to take the butt end of the bike down to bare bones. I also though my experiences might be useful to anyone else looking to perform this operation. Understand that the real wheel will not come out if the rear fender and the left side exhaust, and the saddle bag caging are on the bike. At least, that's MY experience with an 85 GL1200a.

Again, I very much appreciate the wisdom of age. ^^
However, just cause the old guy says it's so, doesn't mean that it is! :d

[Skymajic]

Oh, and by the way, just in case someone might like to know.

The Elite III tires cost me a few dollars less than $300, including the mounting.
If I had taken them to a shop that would have done the wheel removal for me, I would have paid another $130, ($65 each)
and likely wouldn't gotten the price break on the tires. The lift cost me $30. And IMO, well worth it!

[Guest]

to the OP, it's a pain.
I can change my race bike tires in 30 min. front and back. with tubes and balancing.
It took me a good 3hrs to do the goldwing. I'm sure I could do it quicker next time, but the first time sucks.
I followed the manual, but they skip one important step: undo both rear shocks. it says to just undo the left side (because it releases the caliper stay at the same time) but you need both off to pivot the swingarm up far enough to get the axle out.

I have to admit, I tried to do it without removing my hitch or the side bag. the hitch forward arms block the lower shock mounts, and the left bag keeps you from getting the caliper out of the way. remove both.

another admission: it took me about an hour to set the bead on the rear tire.

Tip: when you have the tire off the wheel, mark the heavy spot on the rim (without any balancing weights). most people assume that the valve hole is the heavy spot and they line up the "snake bike" or "yellow dot" mark on the wheel with the valve. The marked spot on the tire is the light spot. if you line up the heavy spot of the rim with the light spot of the tire, you're going to use less weight to balance it. some might say that you can't beat the computerized balancing of a big shop. Well, after seeing the mechanics of MotoGP racers balancing tires the same way that I do it on a stand, I decided that it was good enough for me.

BTW, new Chinkos delivered to my door in 2 days $129. mounted and installed by me free. I even took my sawsall to the old tires and put them in the garbage. ($5/tire otherwise).

-Kevin

[admin]

Oh, and by the way, just in case someone might like to know.

The Elite III tires cost me a few dollars less than $300, including the mounting.
If I had taken them to a shop that would have done the wheel removal for me, I would have paid another $130, ($65 each)
and likely wouldn't gotten the price break on the tires. The lift cost me $30. And IMO, well worth it!

Skymajic, most guys would never dream of removing the rear wheel assembly with the use of a hoist because it is not written in any of the manuals to do it like that but I have found that this method with the hoist can really save a lot of time and eliminates the chance of breaking rusted bolts during disassembly. But, as always you must work with safety at the forefront and plan the lift carefully. I use a one ton come along suspended from a 6' pipe perched across 3 rafters in my garage. I've lifted many bikes and no problems at all so far and I use jack stands under the bike while I'm working on it for additional safety.

[SIR tricky]

"I followed the manual, but they skip one important step: undo both rear shocks. it says to just undo the left side"

Not sure which manual you were reading?

The pics are from the genuine Honda 1984-85 manual

Vic, I like to work lying down, that way I can take a nap if needed and those foam pads are sure comfortable.
A good bike lift would be nice that way you could drop the rear section and remove the wheel that way, but the price is a little too rich for me.

[admin]

Vic, I like to work lying down, that way I can take a nap if needed and those foam pads are sure comfortable.
A good bike lift would be nice that way you could drop the rear section and remove the wheel that way, but the price is a little too rich for me.[/quote]


Shhhhh, you're showing your age Tricky. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

And those bike lifts take up so much room when you're not using them.

[Guest]

Bob. Has anyone ever accused you of being an antagonist? :lol:

[Guest]

Bob, you might check but I think a stick welder is an arc welder. You might have ment a Mig welder vs. a stick welder both still use an electric arc for heat.

Poorboy

[admin]

You could have done a better job with a MIG welder. :lol:

[Skymajic]

Vic,

Odds are I'm going to live where I am for quite a while. The carport is quite strong enough, so I think I'll figure out a way to use the beams and put together a lift. This way I won't have to rent the hoist.

Yes, when I lifted, I didn't leave it lifted. I always lifted then rested it back on blocks, with tension on the lift straps.

The beauty of the lift, aside from not having to take all the bling off my beauty, was the precision the lift offered. I could raise it or lower it to the precise place I wanted it to be at. The shocks and lining up the rear drive during reassembly in particular. Though disassembly of these parts was equally nice.

Many times mechanics manuals are like cook books. If you can't cook, then by all means follow the recipe closely. But, if you understand the process of cooking, then if you see some way to modify the recipe, by all means give it a shot. Hell, that's how things are discovered and improved.

Again, I greatly appreciate the conversation on all topics this forum offers. It's a lot better to have our collective experiences available, then to go into all things blind. Thanks to you guys I was pretty sure there wouldn't be any serious surprises when I took the wheels off.


Again, I thank all of you.

[admin]

Just make sure that it's structurally sound before you lift your bike. Thanks for the kind words.

[Gone14S]

Yup G/W's are a bigger pain than most bikes. I just lift the bike with a couple of hot air balloon's to get the wheels off...lol

I would servce the drive axsel and rear end while you have the rear wheel off, your right there anyway!

Kurt