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carb manifold removal or moving
Do you need new gaskets? I notice a few posts mention that you can undo the manifold to change the choke cable and such and then put it back. there was no mention of new manifold gaskets though.

What is the preferred method for moving the carb manifold? I was thinking of taking it off, lubing the moving parts and cleaning the rest of the block.

Am I looking for a long weekend? That alternator conversion kept me busy enough for a couple weeks. I don't want to dig into another project too soon. I want a little bit of peace in my house. <BG>
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#1 06-09-2009, 01:11 PM,
Replacing the o-rings for the manifolds are not required if they’re in good shape. If they’re originals, that would make them close to 25 yrs. old, and probably smashed flat. If that’s the case, then yes, I would replace them. I have seen some guys reuse old ones with a little permatex to help them seal, but you risk sucking some silicone into the cylinders and then more headaches. Something I do not recommend. It shouldn't take long to do.
For what is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul? Matthew 16:26
For the love of money is a root of all kinds of evil. 1 Timothy 6:10
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#2 06-09-2009, 03:02 PM,
Thanks guys, are they readily available parts, or do I have to order them and wait?

It seems to me that there are a certain set of m,aintenance items I should always have on hand like a few gaskets and O-rings.

What particular set of gaskets and stuff should I have on hand at all times?
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#3 06-09-2009, 07:18 PM,
I'd get the four manifold O-rings and the four air suction valve O-rings

Part # 91305-422-000 for suction valve (hose end under manifold)
Part # 91301-MG9-003 for the manifold o-rings

You don't need to remove the manifolds from the carb assembly... Just unbolt em from the head and loosen the hose clamp on the carb end... Then just rotate the manifolds 180 degrees... This method keeps the correct manifold to the correct carb (they are a little different from each other)... If you ever have need to completely remove the manifold from the carb then be sure to mark the correct cylinder # on em (I do it on the under side of the elbow so to be out off sight)...

Being that you have gone this far with the carb assembly removal, you might consider taking them completely off the bike... This will give you a chance to change out the air valve as well as clean the reed valve assembly (box mounted under the carb assembly with the four hoses on it that go to each manifold)...

You asked about what o-rings / gaskets to have on hand... About the only thing I can think of to have on hand is an oil filter and o-rings that go with it... For the other stuff, it is wisest to first study the task you have in mind (read the manual) and then get the required replacement gaskets / o-rings and other stuff prior to starting the task... Things like the manifold o-rings often can be had on eBay... Sometimes you can get upgraded type o-ring (nitrile) and also save some bucks...
Ed Zogg
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#4 06-10-2009, 06:57 AM,
From experience I have learned to never, ever re-use o-rings because it is virtually impossible to the reinstall then back in the exact same place they came from. Tiny discrepancies in the used o-ring seal can cause some problems. To install an o-ring I use grease on one side then push the o-ring up into its groove and I have never had a problem with one falling out of place.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#5 06-10-2009, 07:57 AM,
Ed Z Wrote:I'd get the four manifold O-rings and the four air suction valve O-rings

Part # 91305-422-000 for suction valve (hose end under manifold)
Part # 91301-MG9-003 for the manifold o-rings

You don't need to remove the manifolds from the carb assembly... Just unbolt em from the head and loosen the hose clamp on the carb end... Then just rotate the manifolds 180 degrees... This method keeps the correct manifold to the correct carb (they are a little different from each other)... If you ever have need to completely remove the manifold from the carb then be sure to mark the correct cylinder # on em (I do it on the under side of the elbow so to be out off sight)...

Being that you have gone this far with the carb assembly removal, you might consider taking them completely off the bike... This will give you a chance to change out the air valve as well as clean the reed valve assembly (box mounted under the carb assembly with the four hoses on it that go to each manifold)...

You asked about what o-rings / gaskets to have on hand... About the only thing I can think of to have on hand is an oil filter and o-rings that go with it... For the other stuff, it is wisest to first study the task you have in mind (read the manual) and then get the required replacement gaskets / o-rings and other stuff prior to starting the task... Things like the manifold o-rings often can be had on eBay... Sometimes you can get upgraded type o-ring (nitrile) and also save some bucks...
Ed,
Are you talking about the air valve as part #
18600-MG9-014 $112US.
17440-MG9-641 $46US
51456-MB9-871 $13US

How often does that need to be changed? I am ordering the rings right now with a few extras of each..
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#6 06-11-2009, 09:41 AM,
The anti lean after burn air valve usually only gets replaced upon failure of it (back firing under deceleration)... I just thought that it being inexpensive and you have already done all the hard work (removing the carbs) that it would prove a good idea to "get it while the getting is good"...
My approach is this... All these bikes are 20 something years old... Rubber parts do have a service life... Parts that have been heated and cooled many times as well as operated in hash environments (gasoline) warrant replacement... So long as the price and quality of the replacement part meets or exceeds the original, then I usually just do it (replace em)... It all comes down to what kind of ride you want for yourself... I for one have no concerns about jumping on her and riding as far as I want to go... I just know the girl will bring me back home without incident,,,
Ed Zogg
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#7 06-11-2009, 11:05 AM,
I'm with you Ed. My Wing is ready to go anywhere with about the same odds of breaking down on the road as a 2 year old car. I've gone through it and replaced the brake hoses, gas hoses, idle air cutoff valve, anti-afterburn valve, brakes and all rubber brake components, tires and anything else that could fall apart simply due to old age. I hate having breakdowns so I spend the money upfront to avoid those breakdowns and it also gets me a much safer bike while I'm at it.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#8 06-11-2009, 11:38 AM,
Hi guys, knowing I can hop on the ol girl and riding her to and back is where I want to be for sure.

I haven't taken off the manifold yet. that will probably be the next repair/rebuild or the final gear. I am riding the bike to work to feel her out right now. So far so good. I do need to replace the choke cable though. I heard you had to go deep in the manifold to get that done so that is why I asked about the O-rings initially. That seemed to be the easiest way to change the choke cable.

I think I have enough maintenance to do on the bike that I can have some fun for a while as long as I have money. Smile
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#9 06-11-2009, 12:20 PM,
You are right in that it really does require the carb assembly to be at least partially removed from the bike in order to replace the choke cable... Best way I have found is to duck tape some strong cord to the old cable and pull it in as you pull out the old cable... Then to do the same with the new cable (pull it in using the cord)... I just rap the cord 4 or 5 times tightly around the cable and then duck tape it... It makes kinda like a Chinese finger lock on the cable and yet does not increase to OD by much... Also while you installing the new cable try to get most of the adjustment slack taken up down at the carb end so that future adjustments can be made at the handle bar end...
I changed mine out near the end of last year... Boy what a difference a new cable makes... I did soak the new cable with oil prior to the install, so that might be part of it too...
Ed Zogg
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#10 06-12-2009, 05:25 AM,


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