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Starter rebuild?
Anyone use any shop in So Cal ?? Got the starter out ! that was fun, now I need a rebuild shop in the IE (Inland Empire) thanks !
87 Interstate
1954 Ford f100 (my dads and granddads truck)

Rust is good

Enjoy the ride

http://www.calorchard.net/




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#1 04-12-2009, 08:05 PM,
You could do it yourself, it's not that difficult. And we could help you.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#2 04-14-2009, 09:32 AM,
admin Wrote:You could do it yourself, it's not that difficult. And we could help you.
It also may just need a good cleaning. After cleaning the inside of the one on my 84 it worked like new.
“A good traveler has no fixed plans,and is not intent on arriving”~ Lao Tzu ~
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In Stable
1985 GL1200 Interstate(RIP)
2003 Yamaha Midnight Venture
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650(Wife's Bike)
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#3 04-14-2009, 04:15 PM,
I replaced my starter with an aftermarket unit back in August '09. Got a kit off e-Bay to rebuild the original. I agree with the "good cleaning" point, as taking mine apart showed lots of carbon dust buildup. But what about the gear grease in the planetary gears? Do you know of any specific grease, or could I get away with any good molybdenum based grease? Incidently, I'm doing this because the replacement starter has failed already, just 3 months since putting it in.
Does anyone know of a good alternative starter relay to use in place of the pitiful original one? I'd thought of perhaps a ford type relay, and heard of one fella who used a lawn tractor relay he'd gotten from Advance Auto, off the shelf. Any thoughts?
Jess
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#4 12-02-2009, 08:27 AM,
There are starter rebuild kits out there that replace the brushes, bearings, and other wear parts. I used one to rebuild my starter and it worked out fine. The only issue I had was loosing the three screws that hold the unit together. You will need a good Philips bit and pressure to them loose if there is corrosion. Also, there is a very small alignment pin that is found in the reduction gear case. Don't loose this! It can be easily lost if you pop open the gear case.

Note the location of the bush holder relative to the starter armature. Using a multi-meter set to measure resistance, you can ohm out the winding pairs and see if you have any burn out wiring or shorts.

Burned out wires will show infinite resistance (like the two meter leads not touching each other) this is not good, you want to see connectivity (like the two meter leads touching each other). This will have to be done for each winding pair. It helps to mark them after you have tested them. Watch out for getting the two pairs out of sync with each other this will give you a false reading of burned out because the two contact points on the armature are not physically connected.

Testing for shorts is easier. Shorts are tested by touch one lead the armature contact surface and the other to the shaft. To make sure you get them all just repeat this for each contact point. In reality you will have tested the armature twice. If you have connectivity you have a short. You want an infinite reading for this test.

If the armature is bad it will have to be rewound or the starter replaced.

Check the gears for worn or missing teeth. If there is a missing tooth or large wear marks on the teeth, the gears need replacing.

With the exception of the cap, the bearing can be pressed out and replacement pressed in. You will need a tool to allow you to put force on the outer ring of the bearing. Never put any force on the inner bearing ring. This will damage the bearing. The cap needs a small bearing puller to get it out. I did not have one so I just left it in the cap during the rebuild. Maybe a machine shop can help you with this, or a good auto mechanic.

It not that hard to do! :d
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#5 12-03-2009, 10:58 AM,
Sorry, I missed your question about the grease.

I used a high pressure molybdenum grease in my starter. I worked the grease into all of the teeth of each gear and the ring gear in the case. Then I added a bit more for insuring enough is available for wear.
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#6 12-03-2009, 11:03 AM,


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