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Well I guess it is time to throw in the towel
I am at my witts end. this tracing electrial is driving me crazy,Especially when I don't have a clue as to what i am doing. I got a manuel and read the test procedures,And have had no luck finding out what is wrong.QUESTION if i tool the coils, ignition control unit and the regulator/rectifier off the bike could i get these tested off the bike(84GL2100) I just can't make sence of the manuel as to how to test these things when they start talking about testing continuity W T F is that. I'M sorry I just can't learn from reading, I am a hands on kind of a guy, If you show me I can get it but reading just confuses me even more. old cars i can work on but these bikes now days with all the plugs and wires going every where I AM LOST
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#1 03-08-2009, 05:51 PM,
what are u trying to test? Continuity means u put an ohmeter on it at one end and at the other end is it 0 ohms which means it connected frm point a to point b or if its a certain resitance accross the two points real high or no reading means its usually an open circuit real low means that the unit is probably toast if its alot lower than it should be hope this helps
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#2 03-08-2009, 06:00 PM,
First of all let me say I have no idea how to fix your problem. What I do want to say though is dont give up. I sometimes have to step away for a while and come back to my problem & with a more clear mind things work out. Tongue . I am sure that with the amount of people we have on here someone will be able to help you. I am very impressed with how much these guys know about the 1200. For as long as I am a member here I will always be thankful - that I am a member Tongue . Good luck with your problem & let us know of any changes. ------WngDng------
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#3 03-08-2009, 06:23 PM,
What specific problem are you having?
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#4 03-08-2009, 07:02 PM,
Wing Nut 47 Wrote:I am at my witts end. this tracing electrial is driving me crazy,Especially when I don't have a clue as to what i am doing. I got a manuel and read the test procedures,And have had no luck finding out what is wrong.QUESTION if i tool the coils, ignition control unit and the regulator/rectifier off the bike could i get these tested off the bike(84GL2100) I just can't make sence of the manuel as to how to test these things when they start talking about testing continuity W T F is that. I'M sorry I just can't learn from reading, I am a hands on kind of a guy, If you show me I can get it but reading just confuses me even more. old cars i can work on but these bikes now days with all the plugs and wires going every where I AM LOST


Dont throw in the towel just yet, none of us are perfect in all things, there are things I am learning every day.

Lets start with the continuity.... continuous. If your multimeter is set to ohms and you touch the probes together, that is a continuous circuit, it is not broken, you have continuity. When you test your cicuit look at the meter reading. If you are testing for a circuit that should have continuity then you will see the same reading on your meter as you do when touch the probes together IF THE CIRCUIT IS NOT BROKEN. If the circuit is broken then you would see the same reading as you would if you held the probes apart.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#5 03-08-2009, 07:45 PM,
Ok my problem is I do not have enough spark to make the bike start. When I was testing it I took the plug out and put it in the plug conector coming from the coil.I cranked the motor over but no spark But did get a pretty good jolt. I was using a spark tester that you use on a lawn more when I got the shock Then I put the plug in and NO SPARK.So I have been trying to find out what make the bike just die all of a sudden while riding like it did.The one place that worries me is when I tested the pulse generarorI had the tester set on omes/20 and got a reading of 33 with the key OFF and testing the yellow and w/y wires then the Blue and theW/B wires. B T W I have a CLYMER manual and am doing test on page 247chapter 8 . also when i tested the coils as in step 4 is the test light supose to light and when you hit the starter flicker or is the light supose to not come on and flicker. The light came on and flickered so I went to next step. I hope I am not confusing you as bad as I am.
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#6 03-08-2009, 10:19 PM,
I,d be looking for a loose wire in the ignition system, mine did it last week, just died for no reason found a dirty connection on the battery and the battery wasn't fully charged.
[Image: Roadawggoldwings-1-1.jpg]
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#7 03-09-2009, 07:02 AM,
Start your tests with a known good battery. Have it load tested after charging, they will do it free at any auto shop.

1 check the wiring on the solenoid to the right side of the battery.
2 check the state of the main fuse. (same place) even change the fuse, they sometimes develop hairline cracks. If there is any doubt on the condition of the wiring there change it to an auto style weatherproof 30 AMP fuse.
3 Check the state of the plug on the 3 yellow wires on the left side of the battery, hardwire them if they are not already done.
4 check the state of the wiring at the regulator for burned connections. If in doubt hard wire the 3 yellow wires from the plug at the left side of the battery directly to the regulator, adding the correct gauge wire.

After you have done this and know these connections are in good shape then we can follow up.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#8 03-09-2009, 07:53 AM,
Did you have the plug grounded when you tried to check for spark ?? Poorboy
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#9 03-09-2009, 08:49 PM,
OK Yes poorboy the plug was grounded. And tricky I checked everuthing you said to check, repaired all burnt wires and everything looks good now. but still no spark(where the dog bone fuse goes there was a small gauge wire where the dog bone fuse went and i took it out and put a dog bone fuse in its place, there was 2 extra dog bone fuses in the holder. so now where do we go? B T W I want to thank you all for your help
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#10 03-10-2009, 08:40 AM,
You said you did check the pulse generators

Try these measurements on the coils and wires.


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The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#11 03-10-2009, 09:00 AM,
After carefully testing the battery for proper output, then performing a draw test on the starter I would then be focusing on the pulse generators as they are typically the weak link in an otherwise very reliable ignition system.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#12 03-10-2009, 09:47 AM,
Question I tester the puls genarater like the manual said on page 247. Switch off meter set on omes/20 and tested the wires I got a reading of 33 on both is that right or should it been 0
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#13 03-10-2009, 12:07 PM,
Should be 330 +/- 33 Ohms, so that means they could be 297 or 363 Ohms and they would be good, any more or less and they are bad. You should also heat them up with a hairdryer during the test because that will simulate running conditions.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#14 03-10-2009, 12:30 PM,
Well Just to let you all know I am at a stand still with my bike right now It has been raining the last few days so I havn't been able to work on it because i don't have a garauge. Will let you know when I get back to it .
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#15 03-14-2009, 09:37 AM,


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