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#1 10-08-2008, 05:26 AM,

Hello everyone. I'm new to this site, finding it to be a great source of information. I am getting back into riding again after about 10 years. I found a well taken care of 84 Aspencade, and after a few weeks of riding, found some issues with the electrical system. I have a 10 volt draw (battery is at 13 with full charge) across negative. The manuel says I should have zero. Traced it down to the 7.5 amp fuse under the left side pocket. This according to the manuel says it goes to the radio(removed) and the clock(unplugged) and the LCD. The strange thing is that I have LCD display when the fuse is pulled and the ignition is on. I have also just replaced the ignition switch as the old one was never replaced under warrantee and was giving me problems mechanically. Any ideas out there? THANK YOU

**roscoepc** · #2 10-08-2008, 09:39 AM,

Welcome to the Site!! The 7.5 fuse probably is for the light's for the LCD display and not the display it's self. As far your voltage draw?? I don't have a clue so maybe one of our wiring guru's will help out!

#3 10-08-2008, 08:04 PM,

How are you measuring your 10 volt draw. If the battery shows 13+ volts, checking with a voltmeter, anything less than battery voltage would be considered milliamps. Our batteries aren't very "deep" so a better test would be to find out your amperage draw. What kind of an electrical issue are you chasing?

***admin*** · #4 10-08-2008, 08:44 PM,

I believe that there are two going to the clock, one for display and the other for memory.

#5 10-08-2008, 09:38 PM,

initial electrical issue was that the bike died on me on the way to work. Had it jump started, made it the two blocks to work when it cut out (engine quit and no electrical). Four hours on the charger and I made it to the auto parts store where a test of the battery showed good. The previous owner had the stator replaced 10,000 miles ago and an output check shows 47 volts at each leg with the engine running. He also added a cheapo LED charge indicator that usually had always been in the green while not running, and while cruising around town I would notice the indicator would intermittently go from green to yellow. I believe this to be a bad stator wire plug connection, well see. Also, I had to wiggle the ignition switch at various times to get power in the on position. I replaced the switch yesterday. (entire assembly) In reading the repair manual, I found that a check for voltage draw could be made by disconnecting the neg. cable and by placing the multimeter leads on the cable and neg. post, there should be no reading. Well, here I am with anywhere from 3 to 12 volts depending on how I pull on the wiring harness under the left fairing pocket where the 7.5 amp fuse is located. Since my last post, I have found the red wire leading from the fuse to the wiring harness junction at the inner fairing was somewhat corroded and the voltage reading was eratic when I would wiggle or slightly move the wire around. I cleaned or hopefully cleaned up the connection with a bit of baking soda and water followed by some white grease followed by blowing it out with compressed air. Now I have a reading of 12 volts that will not drop not even if I pull the 7.5 amp fuse out. Should I have this reading? Is this normal? I do not know how to do an amp test.

***admin*** · #6 10-09-2008, 06:58 AM,

It concerns me that you only show 47 volts AC across the legs in your stator output check. Should be 50 - 70 volts AC. Regarding your draw, are there any accesories installed on the bike that may be tapped into this circuit? To check amps you need a special amperage draw tester or a meter equipped with that feature then once you have the tool you place in series in the circuit to sense draw.

#7 10-09-2008, 08:56 PM,

admin Wrote:It concerns me that you only show 47 volts AC across the legs in your stator output check. Should be 50 - 70 volts AC. Regarding your draw, are there any accesories installed on the bike that may be tapped into this circuit? To check amps you need a special amperage draw tester or a meter equipped with that feature then once you have the tool you place in series in the circuit to sense draw.

I think you have a charging system issue also. You may be chasing ghosts by trying to diagnose a draw that may not be excessive.
<a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=3934">viewtopic.php?f=52&t=3934</a>

#8 10-10-2008, 03:57 AM,

DoctorBombay did not state at what R.P.M. the engine was running at when they got 47 volts, just that it was running.

***admin*** · #9 10-10-2008, 06:33 AM,

Good point Poorboy, the engine should be spinning at least 3000 RPM or better during the test to get a valid reading. If the engine was simply idling at 950 RPM the stator output would be vitually nil.

#10 10-10-2008, 06:03 PM,

Now that you mention it, I was only at idle speed when I did the stator test. However, with the stator wires reconnected and rpms at 3000, I used a cheapo O'Reilly auto parts battery charge indicator/alternator output tester and all showed good. As far as chasing ghosts with the current draw, I'm going to try to disconnect the wiring harness under the left side pocket so I can clean the connection and dielectric grease the terminals. The red wire at the lower right side of the junction is the culprit. Then I'm calling it good so I can finally put the thing back together again to enjoy whats left of good weather. Thanks for all the advice! Here are a few links to some recent pics.
[Image: IMG_3369.jpg]